let me no if you need help with your new welder...

Thanks man. Its appreciated. I'm gonna finish these pipes up this week so you might be hearing from me.

I got the pipes all welded up...but fitment is still a problem. One of the drawbacks to "hacking together" a system of used pipes is they all have a slight bend here or there and in the end it becomes difficult to make two points connect in a straight line. Also I was a little long, so it will come apart yet again to adjust length as well as flange angle for a nice leak free install. Too bad...the weather was great and it would have been great to take a ride!

i have never done it with a quater, but i keeps your car from over heating. however it usually keeps it to cool. 3/4 pipe plug works better. home depot $1.99. the pipe tab you'll need to thread it cost at least $20

I'm not sure I understand what you mean.

weird things
 

So not much to update, but FINALLY my duel exhaust system is in and fits very nice. I still have a leak at the rear header flange since all the flanges were just cut off of different setups and reused, they must be a different brand from each other or something. The four outer holes all line up fine but the center ones do not. I thought I would be able to get away with it but apparently not. I will probably drill it out next and add in the two bolts to each flange.

I noticed a weird occurance each time I shut off the car I would hear a "wet hissing" noise like a coolant hose leaking under pressure, but I discovered it was at my brake booster. There was fluid leaking at the point where the MC meets the booster. I thought it was strange because I never once stepped on the brakes. I decided to disconnect the vaccuum hose and the problem stopped. How could vaccuum induce a leak? Maybe it is just time for a new MC and/or booster???

Also discovered that my tach isn't working...I think its supposed to get its signal from the trailing coil, but will have to check on that.

Things left to do include installing a fan (might just do mechanical for now), sorting out my rebuilt carb (car wont hold an idle, just dies when I take my foot off the gas), bleed out my cooling system and clutch and figure out my new brake problem :scratch: as well as deal with my locked up calipers on all four corners. But its getting there...:icon_tup:

I still run a mech fan... ive heard some bad stories with electric ones... just my personal opinion.. hows it coming with the welder.. get some good welds going? lets see some more pics when you get a chance

Yeah lol...the welding is getting better...in a seat of the pants self taught kinda way. I think I'm just in love with the possibilities welding opens up to me...once you learn to join a couple of pieces of metal there is nothing a torch and a grinder cant cure...and if you don't like it or it doesn't come out well, you can just cut it apart and do it until it is right. I have some pics of the finished exhaust (un grinded) and will chuck them up when I get a chance.

Man, if I could quickly drop the whole exhaust from my GLC and take a picture of it from every angle, I would. It turned out so well I'd like to share since it feels like you're struggling. Then again, that's how we learn.

This is the second exhaust. My GLC's first exhaust wasn't pretty, but was LOUD. The second corrected all the flaws descovered in the first setup like too loud inside and out, ill-fitting header, collected to 2" thickwall so was just 1 3/4" ID (grossly undersized for a 74 ported 13B with a Camden!), not enough muffling/blown out packing, leaky welds and leaky flanges etc. Just about the only good part was the stainless tip! Oh and the Borla in the back. I kept that because it looked good with the tip and it hadn't lost its packing yet.

Thanks Jeff. I'm actually quite happy with my GLC's exhaust. I get complimented at how quiet it is at idle and how nice it sounds at full throttle. One of the future plans for that car is fabbing up a header or using a 12a one from a rx3 as I am told it fits very well.
On this car it appears I am struggling because that is the path I chose. (I am my own worst enemy) I didn't want to build the same set up again so I went dual pipe and over the rear axle. I also had enough pipe laying around that I couldn't justify going to the muffler shop and spending a bunch more money as money is always an issue. I want to take some chances with this build...some of them will pay off...some will make me question my sanity, but it is always worth it. Pretty things are nice, but I just don't enjoy them unless I had a hand in making them that way.
I'll take you up on those pics or any pics of your GLC....love these cars, but take your time I know you are working on a serious project and a lot of us are hanging to see how sick it turns out.

Well sorted out my timing and that turned out to be my stalling issue every time I took my foot off the gas. Here is a short video of the car running. Sorry it is a crappy cell phone vid, but it was all I had on me at the moment. Gotta work on setting the idle and sealing up the exhaust flanges

http://youtu.be/GaN6sMgodaw

you are definitely getting there!!

it's alive....

progress is progress...as Jimmy said (turbo11devil) said...it's not a race!

yeah ...it lives...now all that's left is...EVERYTHING!!!

On a seperate note...I picked up a weber idf setup from rotary engineering...thanks sen2two! And will be getting a carter 4070 to go with it...

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/2...2020500145.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-02-15

this could be a really fun car if it all come s together!

that should gain you a good deal of noticeable power... especially with headers and exhaust..

now you are talking....take that nikki off and put it to good use......Attachment 456630..:rofl:

Haha...That's awesome.

dont let sterling see that

;)

Lol....I'm def ready to try something else.

Lumpy Idle...
 

Put some finishing touches on the car today including coolant oveflow as well as installing all exhaust flange bolts through out the system. Its better that it was, but one of my earlier flange welds needs some attention. Its quiet enough that no one is complaining though.

As I was messing around with the carb setting idle and mixture it became apparent that this motor may have had some work done on it. Take a listen and let me know what you think.

http://youtu.be/4pwv_xKsrlw

No matter what I played with be it timing or mixture or idle speed, it still kept the same lumpy idle.

Also got a couple of other items out of the way such as rear trans seal installed and driveshaft, fitted the mechanical fan (for now) and a modified stock air cleaner assembly

http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/9...2022100160.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-02-21

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/2...2022100161.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-02-21

and tried out a new steering wheel...

http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/9...2022100162.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-02-21

So I had about an hour and a half in the past 2 weeks to mess around with this car and it turns out my lumpy idle I was starting to fall in love with turned out to be a monster vacuum leak at one of my manifold block off plates...:blush:. But I was able to get carb down into the idle circuit and the responsiveness is great. I'd like to take this thing for a ride, so it might be time to bleed the clutch and get the breaks operational in the next coming days off.

Started working on my "no tach " problem too. Looks to be run off yellow and green from trailing coil. The wire is there and connected, but no tach. When I unplug it and plug it back in with the car running I get a spark... but no response from the tach. Weird. Any ideas??? Maybe a bad tach??? Do they go bad???

I chased a similar tach problem on mine. Had spark on the trailing side but no tach. Read everything i could, finally discovered its fairly common as these things age for the tach to act up when cold. Sure enough, after letting mine warm up good (and turning the heater on) mine would start moving. Started slow, would jump up to about 1000 and sit there, then move a bit more, then finally start acting normal. Took 10 minutes or so for it to start working correctly. Ended up switching the tach with another tach i had and it seems to work fine. While i had the 2 tachs out, i could manually move the needle, my old one would "stick" when moved and the other would move back to zero smoothly. I am thinking if you could get some sort of lube into the mechanism it might solve the issue, but since my "new" one works I just left well enough alone. Dash cluster is fairly easy to pull if you wanted to try....good luck!

Thanks Barron. That helps. I started pulling the cluster already so all that is left is to disconnect and remove. I'll try to lube it since I don't have another tach right now.

When you get the cluster out and the lense off, take your finger and gently swing the tach needle. See if it "sweeps" smoothly back or stops. The one I had that was acting up would stop 95% of the time at about 1k on the face, other times it would slow down but return to 0. Do this outside on a cool/cold day, as i think air temp is the cause for the sticking. Remember, my tach still worked once warm, so i dont thing there is anything wrong per se with the tach, except seemingly its pivot needed lubing. Since I had the other tach that moved freely, I simply swapped mine and will mess with lubing the other one later... When you get into the tach you will see what I mean. Hope this helps. Keep us posted....

FINALLY was able to take the car for a ride today...it proved to be just as depressing as it was inspirational :(...my metering pump is completely inop (knew I should have used a blockoff plate and premix) My driveshaft yoke shield is rubbing something and my mechanical fan must be unbalanced in some way because it causes the water pump bearing to howl at anything over 4000rpm.

I am a bit concerned about running the car without the metering pump working correctly, but it was just a short drive. I hope I didn't damage anything to badly.

Its amazing how nice it drove otherwise considering that all is shot suspension wise on the car. Just gotta take a step back and make things right one repair at a time. :dammit:

just premix until you fix it...

I got a block off plate from RE Speed and will be eliminating the oil metering pump completely and just running pre-mix. I'm sure the ratio is gonna be off a bit since my gas gauge is also inop...but I hear this is a very common problem on these cars and a new sender is probably the fix I need.

Its been a while since I have updated this thread and have been using the "today" thread as a update center, but figure it is time to get this going again
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/107...2051500284.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-05-15

Put the car in the garage to pull down my noisy water pump, leaky oil pan, and siezed brakes...also took the opportunity to pull down the front suspension for strut carteidge, spring and control arm bushing replacement, as well as new front ball joints (more on this in a minute)

My parts delivery...
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/1...2050200239.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-05-02
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/722...2050200240.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-05-02

while the car was up realized my master was leaking

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/587...2051500286.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-05-15

forgot what a great "paint remover" brake fluid is. Gonna need to address this. For a quick and dirty build, this car is starting to become a major project.

Took the front suspension to work over the weekend to get things stared.

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/4...2051300278.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-05-13

front suspension almost there... Racing Beat spings and tokico blue's installed...really need some strut tops, but would love some re speed camber plates instead...

as for my front ball joint replacement, this was a first...it was MURDER to remove these suckers...8lb sledge took care of business to get them out. After removal the new ones just didn't seat properly and wanted to drop out. Mazda says they are not replaceable and you must buy the entire control arm with the ball joint installed, but at 169 dollars a pop...I had a better idea

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/2...2051300274.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-05-15

yes...I welded the ball joint to the control arm...lol :lol: I have talked to a couple of people about this and it is a fairly common way of dealing with distorted ball joint bores...been doing front end work for years and yet this was my first encounter with this type of problem. (please excuse my welds...I'd like to think they are getting better, but I am aware this is not the case) A tack probably would have got the job done, but I need the practice.

I have the ReSpeed bushing kit and all that is left to replace up front is the strut rod bushings.

I also got the opportunity to begin my oil pan replacement so I disconnected the header, steering linkage and motor mounts and jacked up the drivetrain to remove the oil pan...had a nasty crack and this...

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/7...2051500285.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-05-15

looks like a pick up tube will need to be swapped out as well...:)

Back at it...for today at least
 

Time to move this along...I was able to FINALLY get my oil pan in and the engine sitting back down on its mounts. Time has been really scarce lately to work on anything but shuttle busses at work and customer cars after work as well as getting boxes packed for moving, meeting with teachers for end of the school year (I have a special needs daughter) and dealing with dear old mom...lol:lol: but here are some pics from the few moments of sanity I was able to capture today.

oil pan in.

http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/2...2060600313.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-06-06

http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/9...2060600314.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-06-06

I was feeling productive so I thought I would start re-installing some of my front suspension. I was able to score some castor/camber plates to replace my worn out strut mounts, but soon came upon a problem.

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/7...2060600311.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-06-06

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/7...2060600312.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-06-06

it appears that the part that replaces the strut mount does not fit over the shaft of the tokico blue struts that I installed. It clears the threaded section fine, but the part after that is a dead stop. I should mention that these are "Seven's Only Racing" castor/camber plates, so if anyone has any insight into what I need to do to get these to work, let me know. Here are some pics to show the problem I am having...

tokico strut shaft with mount removed.
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/3...2060600316.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-06-06

trying to install
http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/9...2060600315.jpg
By cfamilyfix at 2012-06-06

any ideas??? I know there might be a difference in "coil over" strut inserts vs stock strut inserts, but I was under the impression that in Pro7 you had to run a stock configuration...which I am

It looks like the strut shaft will need to be turned down a bit in order for me to run these parts...Re-Speed says to turn down the strut shaft .625", but these are 7's only parts...so I emailed them and am waiting for a response. I have a friend with a milling machine (old school) so the turn down shouldn't be a big deal.

Yup I still have this...
 

over the last couple of weeks I got some things done...

Front suspension and new brakes done...

http://imageshack.us/a/img689/1531/img2012120100001.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img90/4900/img2012120100002.jpg


http://imageshack.us/a/img17/7986/img2012120100003.jpg

replaced my radiator,also replaced the water pump and re-installed my mech fanhttp://imageshack.us/a/img18/7470/img2012120100008.jpg

Glad to see you're still at it. Making some good progress there!

awesome progress!

Thanks...I'm building a motor this winter that I think will go in this car...a nice street port...in fact I got the ported plates from 82transam...thanks again. soon it will be time to turn the car around in the garage and get all the rear brakes and suspension done...then rust repair and then....well it never ends. I work 2 jobs now and with the a serious lack of time and energy its tuff to stay inspired. I like this car for some odd reason...lord knows there are cleaner ones out there, but I feel like THIS one needs to be saved. I feel like it will be a great opportunity to try things out on, like direct fire ignition, and a cool weber set up I have. As a result, this car might spend more time on jack stands than driving, but I have other cars for that.

No problem, glad you're getting some use out of them!

I know what you mean about feeling the need to save a specific one. The one I'm restoring right now is/was a rustbucket. Would be easier to find a different shell, but something keeps me from scrapping it.

BTW I still have those other irons if you want them ;)

Very nice, got a 80' that I am building right now. So far carb and seals still seem to be good but I'm sure they're all hard and about to fall apart any moment.

Didn't even get near my car this weekend...so frustrating...decided I'm not even gonna run heat to this this thing...bought a bunch of caps to eliminate the heating system to this car.

a tiny bit of more progress...got the car out of the garage finally and managed to get the rear suspension upgrade started...pics

http://imageshack.us/a/img90/1214/img2013030500069.jpg

http://imageshack.us/a/img826/424/img2013030500068.jpg

hopefully the endlinks and the remainder of the bushing kit make it in this weekend...no promises though...two jobs, two kids and one on the way, an over bearing mother in law who lives with us and my intense mom who does not all conspire to ruin my progress on any given moment...lol.

Wow!
 

Looks great! Keep up the good work. Yours looks as rusty as mine does underneath. I plan to take the suspension parts out and de-rust them and seal them up with POR-15. I'll replace the bushings of course too.

Love those tokico's.

Editing for my stupidity. Tokico's all around. Forgot that yours was 81.

Rear end links are in

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/1...3041400002.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

and it is up for sale...$2000 OBO

ended up trading this for a 90 Miata...

http://imageshack.us/a/img841/6185/img2013051900025.jpg

no idea what to do with it...lol

drop a rotary in it! :)

lol...never out of the question for me....

I thought it was a forgone conclusion.

Wait Wait, you mean people actually buy a Miata without the intention to Rotary swap it? Blasphemy!

The little four banger in this thing is trying to win me over!!! I will prob throw some plates on it and a hard top and drive it till it blows up....then the build begins...