12AT build Fall\Winter build.
 

Hello everyone I figured since i have a few parts already in motion for the build I would get myself a thread started.

I have a 1983 rx7 gs 12a I have only had the car for about 3 months now and its just not quick enough for me.

So me and a buddy got to talking what if we try turbo it on low boost and see what results we can get.

Now we arn't just jumping in to this for fun then boom motor gone I'm gonna need a few things for sure.

Now i have talked to Jeff20B and he did give me a list of what im gonna need for siad build without so much downtime only thing in my way is prices on each item. Now i have already secured myself a good no cracks S5 turbo manifold from a T2 rx7 just waiting on the funding for an S5 turbo but is in motion.

This build will hopefully be done by next spring or summer but i dont expect to much due to time and funding i have my own shop so winter weather wont be an issue.

Now for some pictures.



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She might be old but it was cop driven for 30 years given a rebuild then sold and resold to me with a hint of carbon build up.

But no worries while the car is down for the winter doors and lights and other interior will be fixed probably most needed is my speedo and the dash lights.

i have an 81 12a and i'm wanting to do a 12at as well.. mind passing that part list you got this way? ;) im a rotary noob looking for info lol

This information was given to me by Jeff20B so all the credit goes to him for helping me out on getting started and kinda inspired to take this on.

Start at 6psi. Lower is better (safer) when starting out.

You don't need to hog out your Nikki like I did. I did it because it's on a 13B. Just do basic stuff:

mech-sec mod, Sterling accel pump mod, remove choke flapper and shaft and fill in two holes from the shaft removal. Also remove all hoses and block off all nipples.

The dizzy needs to be semi-locked. Most folks fully lock it but if you can just limit its advance travel to just 10 degrees by adding a lump of weld in the slot, it will let the engine idle better. Mine idles awesome with a semi-locked at 0 degrees, then goes up to 10 degrees as RPMs rise.

MSD fuel pump
5/16" send and 3/8" return fuel hardlines under the car
Mallory 4309 fpr
block off stock Nikki 1/4" return fitting

Some kind of carb hat that fits the Nikki -- I fabbed two using the base from the stock blue air cleaner assemblies. I did a 2" inlet tube but I guess Robert at RotaryShack does them in aluminum with a 2.5" inlet. His is a kit with the long stud and an o-ring for sealing at the bottom. About $120 on eBay.

Get a wideband. Enough said.

I've used an S5 turbo. It needs a 3" down pipe. The rest of the exhaust can be 2.5". I'd recommend it because my current full 3" drones and is anoying to hear over a sound system I recently installed. I'm looking at options right now. Either smaller exahust from DP back, or go NA and test the turbo in a REPU (which frankly could use the extra power lol).

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Also as a little update I just bought an e-fan to replace my clutch fan and all that engine lag.

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its only a 10 inch fan but it will do for now till I can get further into the build.

somethings I have found is I need to take my Behive off and replace my O-rings in it so it will stop its nice little oil drips also found one of my coolant hoses is leaking from the top of the radiator but the radiator looks fine just time to change that top hose is starting to give out so I think I will just redo my coolant again and replace that naughty top hose and clamp with a better one then the stock looking one while i'm at it.

I recently installed a fresh o-ring replaced beehive in my car and even more recently did an o-ring job on another beehive. Get ready for grimey hands. :)

Oh one more thing. I used a 16" electric fan.

The 10 inch one is just temp i was able to get for $20 im gonna pick up a better one soon in the future. Also cant wait for those grimey hands wont be my first time.

So it looks like the coolant hose change came sooner then expected. On my way back from lunch to work the leak had gotten worse and i started losing water slowly but good thing i was close to work and had the ability to use my work tools to get it fixed quickly.

I noticed i had alot of air in the radiator i might need another rad this one might be getting clogged somewhere. And its making my coolant look really worn out same with my rads cap needs to be changed.

I might need to ask my turbo seller to hold off till next month to find the problem and fix it.

So today after work im gonna move some things around in my shop so i have a place for things to go.

I played around with my water pump and the pully feels funny not sure how to really explain it but like its not really spinning anything on the inside drawing the water through. So i will remove it and check it out before i do anything with the radiator.

I will try to get some pictures today of my shop space and what my shop space looks like with a badass rx7 inside of it.

One rule in my shop no pistons allowed....accept my wifes durango or she will kill me oil changing in the driveway lol.

Anywho while im taking off the water pump i will get to that pesky beehive and see what we can get apart on it tonight. Is there a specific O-ring or can i just buy a set of standard O-rings and be ok?

Oil filter pedestal o-rings. You need four (4).
Oil Filters, Oil Caps and Sending Units

Then a new J shaped hose if yours is damaged from oil.
83 - 85 12A Water Hoses

Thanks Jeff that helps a lot

Now for some pictures.



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Ok yesterday I finally got my radiator out and almost got the water pump out only one more bolt to go and pop it comes off.

But on the side i looked at my smog pump and realized i should just take it off since its not attached to the exhaust anymore and just taking up space and power.

Now i wont need to adjust anything timing wise will I? I know i will have to run a smaller belt now for my water pump but that wont be any big deal i have some extra belts that might fit the purpose.

Now for some extr pics.



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Alright so i guess this is a slight update i had most of the water and cooling fixed but it seems along the way of putting it all together i broke a few wires that i have fixed already.

I finally got my e-fan in after being so lazy to get it done. Anyways most of my leaking was coming from tje water pump and the back of the water housing you know that one gasket back there that i had no idea about lol.

But i had ti adjust my ignition for the new fan since i havnt hooked up my switch yet for it and i can tell you i went through a few fuses before my brain fart ended and was thinking straight. After all is siad and done im going to start working on the carb and get to rebuilding it and doing away with the rats nest.

Will do my best to keep posting but work is keeping me to busy sometimes.