12a Turbo Project
 

Im getting ready to get my 12aturbo on the road and got a few of the parts that I need and just need a little bit more and wanted some advice. Im running a stockport 12a right now but looking for a streetported motor and am planning to run 10psi or so.

Right now I have

Boost Prepped Niki with carb hat
S4 Turbo and Manifold
Volvo Intercooler
Mallory 4309 FPR

I know I need a new fuel pump as well and was wondering what else I needed. What kind of downpipe and etc.

a good efi fuel pump should be on the list too.... a gsl-se pump or an msd efi pump should be great for your application..

Id stay away from the msd pump, me and a buddy both ran those on our 12at setup w/ no luck, got w/ either the se pump or a walboro 255 inline.....ebay 100 bucks

lotso lotso time.

robert dont forget the cheese


does the s4 mani just have to be re drilled for the 12a bolts??

Yeah, the bolt holes and exhaust holes need to be slotted to match the 12a exhaust gasket. You still need a fuel pressure gauge, turbo oil feed & drain lines, boost gauge, intercooler piping, bov... and probably some other small stuff. I use the stock gsl-se pump on mine, it works good up to at least 14psi. But if you are going to a streetport engine or if you upgrade the turbo you'll probably need the walboro pump. Also, what clutch are you going to use?

I dont understand how you guys can use the SE pump on a 12A turbo application. On mine, the fuel mixture started to lean out already at 7-8 psi. That was however not whith a carb, but the standard injection running two 800cc injectors.

Have you tested the engine with a wideband lambda? I cannont get the pump to deliver enough.. Some say that you can increase the voltage on the fuel pump, thus making it deliver more, but exactly how this is done, i have no idea!

the se pump works fine on most stock port blowthrough carburated setups..

you need alot more fuel for a fuel injected turbo set up than a carby one.

Do I get one of the Walbro 255 kits that says it is made for a 2nd gen Rx7?

I heard you could use two flanges from Racingbeat, the 12a and 13b engine to header flanges to be able to mount the S4 turbo manifold to your 12a

And I dont have idea on what clutch I am going to use yet. What clutches are other people using? I've seen XTD Stage 2 cluthces on ebay for like 130..?

1.) No, you dont want the walbro 255lph for the 2nd gen. Walbro makes a inline EFI fuel pump that is rated at 255lph. I dont specificaly remember the part number, but if you go to their site, you can find it. They are always on ebay as well, for about $100.

I believe this is what your looking for....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WALBR...QQcmdZViewItem

2.) Racing beat makes a 4 puck clutch kit, Id go with that if I were you. I believe that is what Zac used, as well as 84gsNC

3.) Also, as far as a turbo manifold, I'd have Rene make you a custom tublar manifold. (If he still is making them) He can make you one with whatever flange you are using.

Here is his website....
http://www.rx3mist.com/

Later,
Chris~

Don't forget to look into a EGT gauge, as well as a wideband oxygen sensor if you haven't already invested in those.

I contacted Rene about 2 weeks ago for a 13bt manifold, he wont be making them for another couple of months.

That is the fuel pump that you'll want, thats the one I use now, though Ive never tried it, you can still use the SE pump.

Also as Chris said, look into getting a wideband, I wouldnt even think about boosting it w/o one

Alright, I just ordered the Walbro fuel pump.

I had read a post on here I think, but I can't find it, that said you could use the two flanges to mate the 13bt manifold to the 12a. Does anyone have any information on this?

I was going to go with the Equus boost and mechanical oil pressure gauges.

What is an EGT gauge? And can I get and install the wideband oxygen sensor later, or should I do that before I get everything set up?

1.) you can use a 13bt turbo manifold, and make an adapter flange with exhaust manifold flanges (from racing beat) and some piping. However, you will want to upgrade to the tubular manifold from Rene in the future....

2.) an EGT gauge, or pyrometer measures your exhaust gas temperatures, which will give you an idea of if the car is leaning rich or lean depending on the temp. However, when it is coupled with a wideband oxygen sensor (such as a PLX m-300) you can then tell if the timing is out of wack, or another issue needs to be addressed.

3.) a wideband is a necessity, it will be installed into your downpipe via a weld in bung. It will give you a digital readout of the cars air fuel ratio, and thus futher enhance your tuning ability. as 84gsNC said, I wouldnt even think about boosting a car without one. Here is a link to the PLX M-300 on ebay, its a great deal. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PLX-M...QQcmdZViewItem

4.) autometer boost and oil pressure gauges are fine as well, might as well get an egt off of them while your at it too. Personally, I would say a boost and egt gauge would be the first two to purchase, then an oil pressure, oil temp, and water temp gauge later. Look into getting the racing beat adapter for the oil pressure and temp gauges. http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda1.htm
You may also want to consider purchasing racing beats oil pan baffle in the future, as well as their high voulme racing oil pump.

5.) Lastly on the oil thing, look into, (if you have not already done this) getting a 2nd gen FC front mount oil cooler. There is a writeup in the archives on how to install one into an FB. Its a great modification, and will also help with oil temperature issues.

Stuff I stated in 1,2, and 3 are things you should address now. The other stuff is just stuff to consider once you have the cash, and have the car running in a decent fashion. Im not sure why this is not sticky'd, but if you want to get a CRAP LOAD of information about blowthrough turbo'ng a FB, just search out posts written by FB II, and also talk to Robert at Rotary shack. That should give you more than enough info. on how to get this done and screaming.

Chris~

Well I haven't updated this in a long time, but I'm about to now. And am going ot try to have it be my build thread.

Here is my getting her
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Newpics010.jpg

300 bucks, and it was on SA waffles

Here are the 2 Rx7s (RIP) I had previously and where a good amount of parts came from.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Picture002.jpg

RB Springs, Tokico Shocks, RB Header to 2.5inch pipe to a straight through magnaflow, 28inch long 4 inch round 2.5 in/out

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Picture122.jpg

This is how she sits now, after my hood mishap lol...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Picture069.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Picture202.jpg

I just got this interior from the junkyard..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Picture043.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...cture047-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...cture048-1.jpg

I found the build sheet under the spare tire too

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Picture046.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Picture049.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...Picture001.jpg

https://farm3.static.flickr.com/2029...883c221e16.jpg

This is the turbo kit I bought. I also bought a few different kits for use with the stock Nikki but I sent it to Robert @ RotaryShack and that was the end of that carb..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../Photo0174.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../Photo0175.jpg

Heres what my exhaust currently looks like..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...1204090002.jpg

I'm going to try and list all my parts and will edit this post to update it, but I have to remember/find/think about what I have


Parts:

Fuel
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Mallory 4309 Fuel Pump

An oil pedestal from Re-Speed
Dual Alternator Pulley from Re-Speed

Suspension
RB Springs
Tokico Blues
Triangular Strut Bar

Exhaust
RB Header
MagnaFlow 4inch around 28inch long 2.5in/out
RB PowerPulse Universal Muffler

Drivetrain
Centerforce Clutch
RB Aluminum Flywheel

Interior
MazdaSpeed Wood Steering Wheel

So you never turboed the car?

Nice find on the interior!
Looks like you decided to go with a draw-through setup. Why was that? Just availability?

It's honestly been sitting for a few years. I had some parts stockpiled but I just got my car registered/smogged/insured and now I'm back in the game.

Most of my time has been devoted to my motorcycles as of lately.. but Im trying to change that



I had a blow through setup bought I sent my carb out and got bamboozled

Well that sucks.
Did the turbo setup you bought come from a running car? If so do you know how well it ran?

yeah it came off a running sandrail, he said it ran strong. i traded some OEM mazda 4.11 gears for it

I think alot could be done to improve the efficiency of that intake manifold.

I was kinda thinking the same thing...
I dont know anything about draw-through but I wonder how much the gas would pool up in the turbo before hitting that manifold. I'm interested to see how this runs

Good Luck!

I just received my stainless steel brake lines and new door seals from ebay 62.99 with free shipping

I don't know how its going to run hopefully well, dude said it was running strong

Need to update this.

I've done some work. I got a new exhaust. I had a racing beat muffler with 2.5 inch pipes to a straight through magnaflow. I got the magnaflow moved up to right behind the header, and I got a racing beat universal power pulse in at the rear. I also had the pre-cat I had on before removed. I also had a flange welded before the rear axle so it's easier for me to remove.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...car/header.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rexhflange.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rearexlexh.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...mufflertip.jpg


I installed my SS brake lines.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/ssbrakes.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rearbrakes.jpg


I also have tapped the front cover of my SP 12a for the oil return.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...frontcover.jpg

Been cleaning up the engine bay, pressure washed it. Removed a lot of wiring from the harness.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...car/wiring.jpg

I painted some stuff in the engine bay as well. I need to pull the motor to finish I think.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/radpaint.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...surewashed.jpg

I got an OMP block off plate too, I'll have it installed soon.

Removed all of the hard power steering lines and made a little loop for the 2 wires from the steering box.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ersteering.jpg


I also installed an amp and my subs..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/IMG_0824.jpg

Installed a 2nd gen alternator with a re-speed dual belt pulley.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../enginebay.jpg

My speedo cable isn't connected and so I capped my transmission with this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rf/car/cap.jpg
because it was leaking a bit.

My oil cooler was missing the mount on the passenger side and I got around to installing another one I had laying around.

Just did an oil change, as well as flushed the transmission fluid and changed the differential fluid.

My waterpump was leaking so I had to replace that as well.

Interior is getting there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/interior.jpg


My friend works at a shop and balanced my tires. One of them needed 4 ounces :blush:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...lsbalanced.jpg

My cat loving the Rx7.


[http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/IMG_0009.jpg

Finally did some progress that was worthwhile.

Got a pretty nice find at Pick’N’Pull, a brown 84 with a TII swap. Walbro 255lph FP, and what looks like some type of relay for it, 2nd gen oil cooler with brackets to mount to subframe, thermostat housing tapped and threaded with coolant sensor, a brown hood, non-cracked stereo surround, downpipe, hard fuel lines under car. I’m probably forgetting some stuff as well.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/IMG_0010.jpg

I also went jdm tyte and installed the crown shift boot. Originally I wanted to repair the stock one. I saw in the JY they had used cable ties to tie it to the broken tabs, but I could too frustrated trying to imitate it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/IMG_0011.jpg

Thermostat housing

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/IMG_0013.jpg
New Oil Cooler
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/IMG_0016.jpg

Rx7 getting ready
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/IMG_0048.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/IMG_0049.jpg

Motor is out
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/IMG_0060.jpg

Racing beat flywheel stopper + Chaining motor to a huge table + standing on motor with breaker bar = Loose flywheel nut
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...r/IMG_0064.jpg


I pulled the oil pan off my old motor and noticed theres a rip in the mesh for the pick up tube. I’m going to buy a new one if I can’t repair it.

I bought a racing beat flywheel and need to measure my old one to determine if it’s the right size.

I also have removed most brackets and hard lines in the engine bay to get them painted.


I have a question as well. I read some people said using oil pan gaskets leak and to just use RTV. I have a brand new FelPro oil pan gasket. Should I install it with or without RTV, or not use it completely?

Face the subs the other way. Trust me. Much MUCH more bass. MUAHAHAHAHA Nice so far. I got to get working alot more on my setup. just search For TT FB.

Yeah I'll throw em in the other way and see if it changes it.

Ordered an oil pickup tube and fc leading coil today.

Going to finish simple greening the engine bay. Possibly re-doing the connectors for the engine harness then shrink tube them.

Now that I have my other motor out I'll start mocking the turbo parts on it to get some ideas.


I wanted to put an old intake manifold/header on the motor then engine degrease/carb cleaner/ hit it with the pressure washer. Would this be okay, anything I should look out for? Besides getting water in exh/int/coolant/oil passages and ports and covering the distributor.

Edit: It's embarrassing having a 6 year old build thread with minimal progress but I love motorcycles and Starcraft and have poor time management. Also I'm about to have a kid so my funding will be dramatically cut, but luckily I stockpiled a fair amount of parts.

You should be fine with washin the motor with the stuff installed. Throw some hot water after you soak it in simple green. I would just spray it down with concentrated simple green and let it sit then throw hot water on scrub rinse agian with hot and scrub and wash down with garden hose. But thats just me lol. Some things take time. But in the end im sure it will be worth it

The best way i found to get the flywheel nut off was to use a 3/4 impact. Took i think 2 seconds? Lol. Im a lill lucky to know some ppl. And i didnt have the flywheel stopper used to motors compression to keep it still. To get the flywheel off is another story

I didn't have to much trouble.. after I chained it to a table, with the pressure plate holder in place and stood it on while using a breaker bar :rock:

Since I'm changing my fb oil cooler to an fc one would it be beneficial for me to run the taller skinnier radiator? Or does the s2 one cool better?

Well since I half assed cleaning my engine bay before I figure now that the motor out this is the best time to do it.

Here is the before picture.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...f/IMG_0068.jpg


Stripped a bolt in the oil pan, and sucessfull got it out with the Ez-Out.




Painted Parts
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../IMG_01211.jpg

have my RB alum flywheel mounted, waiting on the kit from RB so I can mount the clutch and PP


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...f/IMG_0071.jpg

Unfortunately I left my clutch and pp sitting together in a somewhat moist environment so the PP and 1 side of the clutch does have surface rust. What should I do to remove it?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../IMG_01181.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../IMG_01101.jpg

Got the Re-Speed pedestal with 2 1/8npt tapped threads for oil press and temp and drilled and tapped another 1/4pt for my oil supply line.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../IMG_01231.jpg

I also re-drilled and tapped the front cover to 3/8npt.

The Fc oil cooler has the thermostat removed and is being cleansed with Brake cleaner and multiple passes of boiling water. Should be mounted to the front subframe tomorrow with all new crush washers.

what is the benefit of removing the thermostat from the FC oil cooler? I have one sittin in my kitchen that i need to install. lolz

The thermostat only opens at a certain temperature, so if you leave it inside trying to clean it will only be cleaning the end tank and not the entire cooler.

I have also heard you can dump in boiling hot water so the thermostat opens and the water goes through it.

Sp'd motor installed
 

Well I'm doing this in notepad after losing everything I wrote. Chrome crashed when uploading my pics.. My sweet pregnant gf left me this cute ass turtle (i love em) on my motor
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...f/gfturtle.jpg



I got the SP motor installed with RB alum flywheel, counter-weight, new clutch and PP.

I had to pull the motor once to correct the spacers for the flywheel. I had the washers inbetween the fly/pp as well as the spacers.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...eelspacers.jpg

Pressure Plate and Clutch were sitting on each other for awhile and had a little surface rust.

Rx Seven, using a 3m abrasive wheel to clean off the clutch and pressure plate. (Thanks pal!) Then re-installed after being cleaned and installed correctly.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...grindingpp.jpg


Motor looks like it had some damage to the oil pedestal mount. The top left (drivers side closest to fender) threaded hole on the motor was also jbwelded(?) back on and broke off during installation.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ountbroken.jpg


Also, the top left (driver side) threads to screw into tranny broke.
A little nervous of the condition of the engine, especially after seeing the waterpump rust.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...rf/rustywp.jpg

I changed housings and replaced the WP with a reman I had on my other engine.

Pulling the pilot bearing wasn't too bad, putting it in was cake. Heres my harbor freight tool I used. I had to grind it down, and the 1st one broke, but after having my gf return it I was able to grind it again and pull the bearing out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...f/pulledpb.jpg





Got the 2nd gen oil cooler mounted properly to the subframe. Had to trim radiator mount on left side for lines to fit, I followed trochoid's write-up as a guideline. Here is the oil cooler mounted.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...unttrimmed.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3.../oilcooler.jpg


I got my engine bay a lot cleaner as well while the engine was out as well. I wanted to run the wires through the fender, but I had other things to do. I cleaned up the old harness, re-wrapped and put electrical tape on it. It looks a lot better.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...leftengine.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...nginebay-1.jpg

I got some Prestone Super Cleaner. (Reads: Ideal for Neglected Cooling Systems) Bingo! Am going to do this tomorrow.


My oilpan is leaking. I didn't check to see if it was flat before installing it... So it's coming off so i can clean and check it. I used a felpro oil pan gasket along with black RTV.

I'm going to try to reinstall it with some hi-temp red rtv. hopefully it will resolve my oil pan leak. ima run some seafoam through the engine oil and vacuum lines before I replace oil pan gasket. Want to clean out this engine and oil cooler pretty well, especially considering I don't know anything about them.