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I highly recommend Buddy Club Inconel 625 P1 lug nuts, been running them for a few years and they have no issue with rust.
I already ordered the Titanium lug nuts but thanks for the reccomemdation. After a week of bronchitis I am still recovering from... I’m waiting to tear down the top end to replace the lower with a JDM lower. I’m going to have it ceramic coated first. I hate tearing it down that it’s running... but I need to do heat management and woo be wrapping the exhaust manifold and downpipe and putting turbo blanket on the hot side of the turbo.
The JDM lower will move the lower far enough back away from the turbo to put the blanket on the turbo and put some air between the front runner and turbo hot side. Hopefully now not contributing to a failure of the front rotor due to superheating it.
Haltech is ready to go in and my base map has been adjusted by Seth in Texas to match my injectors etc. I’ve just been down for the count for the last week and the heat has been near 100 all week anyway.
In other news news I am sending out one of the 4 steering wheels I have to be customized. I will wat to post details until. Get the it back. It’s not cheap but it f it comes out how I assume it will I should really love it.
Was trying to get the car ready for a drive today and my Laptop of 10 years wasn’t cooperating. Finally I used a jump drive to get my base map because the laptop won’t go online. It started up and I tried to take a drive and the Turbo oil feed line off the block is leaking like a Siv. I’m always nervous about over tightening aluminum fittings into steel or iron. I guess the crush washer didn’t crush enough.
I wont bother with it until my JDM lower arrives back from Ceramic coating and will be taking it down to the lower in a couple weeks.
I had hoped to get it out for 7’s day with my friends this afternoon.
Also my tach seems to not work with the Haltech. It says there is a conflict with the boost control solenoid. Weird.
For that oil feed banjo, use a steel banjo bolt but with a standard aluminum -4 AN banjo to AN adapter with copper crush washers. This will reduce the risk of cracking the front iron due to the aluminum bolt in the iron plate. Aluminum AN adapters screwed directly into the iron can crack it.
For that oil feed banjo, use a steel banjo bolt but with a standard aluminum -4 AN banjo to AN adapter with copper crush washers. This will reduce the risk of cracking the front iron due to the aluminum bolt in the iron plate. Aluminum AN adapters screwed directly into the iron can crack it.
i will be checking it out in the next couple weeks. I think I may try a Dowty washer. I already have the AN lines made. Banjo is what I had before and is probably superior.
Luckily the iron wasnt cracked
Had to grind down the new Banjo fitting in the front iron as it was too long and bottoming out. Both fittings were long so I took down the steel Banjo and now it finally seals.
I started tuning the car with the Haltech 2500 and my Wideband. As the car warmed up the car would lean out so it was basically undriveable.
After consulting with ”Skeese” here on the forum I realized the coolant and air intake correction factors were pulling fuel out as the car warmed up. The Wideband is readying the Air fuels BEFORE the correction factor so while it was trying to hit target air fuels it was then having the correction factor undo the effort.
So after zeroing put the correction factor the car started driving much better. The air fuels were hitting their target with correction from the Wideband and then I would make the adjustments to the basemap from the corrections in the long term fuel map.
Anyone looking to use the Haltech Elite; the self tune feature works excellent for idle, cruise and vacuum parts of the map. I have my Wideband set up Analog into the Haltech and have assigned the input to read from it.
If anyone has a Haltech Elite and is trying to adjust the base map and is new to the ECU there is excellent support for Rotaries.
So far I am impressed with how well this works and how many things it monitors and controls. I came from a Power FC and this ECU is worlds apart.
I spoke to an engineer today at Pro Meth about possibly making a custom Direct Port water meth injection system to be sure each rotor is getting an equal amount of water meth. After explaining my current set up and the detonation event I got to the front rotor he suggested I go a cheaper route than a custom direct port system and move my nozzle further up stream toward my intercooler and further from the throttle body and a Greddy elbow.
Basically what he said is happening with my current water meth set up is the elbow is immediately turning 90 degrees to the throttle body as soon as it sprays. The intake charge is flowing at about 300 mph through the intake pipe. He said as soon as the water/meth starts spraying it’s sheared off and slammed against the side of the elbow where it just runs against the wall of the intake to the rear rotor.
There isnt enough time for the water/meth to saturate, evaporate and cool the air charge. Putting it further upstream will allow the air more time to cool and the water to saturate the air charge before heading down the runners to the motor.
This makes sense and is probably why my car didn’t detonate on the Dyno but the added gravitational,force of me driving 100mph added to the water meth running toward the back of the plenum and to the rear rotor.
Its not that a direct direct port is a bad system design. But my problem could be resolved by moving the water/meth nozzle back upstream.
There is is no denying how cool Pro Meth stuff is and I may still consider a direct port solution as it also looks really trick. I don’t need a flow bench to know that my water meth is evenly distributed if it’s directly sprayed into each runner.
Also I want to give my Haltech the work to do 3D mapping the water meth instead of the 1D boost only based stand alone AEM method of delivery.
Pro Meths support and customer service was amazing. Makes me just want to build a kit from their stuff to support them. And look how awesome these kits look. https://prometh.com/collections/all
Engine bay looks mint, good info on the hatlech. Sorry if i missed it but who made your harness and did you have a good experience?
Hey Johnny,
Haltech just made available a plug and play version of the Elite ECU for the series 6 FD which is the 92-95 model year.
That means there is an adapter harness and base map available from Haltech. It is available for stock twin turbo or single turbo cars depending on the Elite model you get. It will also control a 3 or 4 rotor or a V8 swap in some cases. See Haltech for details.
I am currently running the stock harness and have my Wideband wired in analog to the Haltech. Haltech has a Can Bus option for things like Wideband as well as others. Without getting into the benefits of Can Bus it means it has more features and protection for your engine due to its ability to monitor not just air fuels but also the Wideband controller itself. This means it won’t read an erroneous air fuel ratio if the Wideband controller errors out and only reads a fixed constant. In that case the Haltech knows not to continue to adjust to air fuels that will cause harm. When you use a Wideband in Analog the ECU only sees the air fuels and not the health and operation of the controller. So it’s another layer of protection.
It will also support Flex fuel without upgrading your harness. Just put the sensor inline on the return side of the fuel system and run the wires to a spare input on the ECU. The Haltech runs all the stock gauges and AC just like the Power FC. It’s basically the same price as the Power FC/commander/Datalogit.
It it will still provide layers of engine protection the Power FC will not; including timing retard knock control etc.
even with the stock harness. Add in whatever you want to run for inputs like traction control etc. a complete custom harness isn’t required as you can add most things alacarte by installing the sensor and running the wire to the ECU.
If you have a crispy harness and want something made that eliminates what you don’t need and add in all the things you want in a tidy package just Contact Chris Ludwig at LMS EFI https://m.facebook.com/pg/LMSEFI/about/
He can make you a nice milspec harness with every possible option all in a tidy custom package for the FD and Haltech Elite. I will probably have him make me one once I figure out everything I want to add. You would be looking at a significant amount of money for a custom harness so it’s up to you if you want to go that route. It’s not necessary to get started using the Haltech though.
Good feedback regarding ProMeth! And glad to see Rodney & crew getting some love on here. Dude def knows his stuff when it comes to aux. injection setups. Tried to talk him into designing a tank to fit in the FD rear cubby hole similar to the one that they have for the C5 Vette. But it's too cost-prohibitive for him to produce for our much smaller community. Still, his 3-gallon tank system setup is a pretty nice alternative.
Good feedback regarding ProMeth! And glad to see Rodney & crew getting some love on here. Dude def knows his stuff when it comes to aux. injection setups. Tried to talk him into designing a tank to fit in the FD rear cubby hole similar to the one that they have for the C5 Vette. But it's too cost-prohibitive for him to produce for our much smaller community. Still, his 3-gallon tank system setup is a pretty nice alternative.
Rodney is who I talked to and he took a lot of time to ask about my setup and give me some solutions. You could also convert an AEM stand alone kit to a direct port system using his nozzle blocks and hardware he sells ala carte.
I just bought the new rear washer tank from SakeBomb that is a perfect solution for a rear mount tank. There is currently a group buy you may want to get into if you want a nice rear tank with capacity. https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-pr...-tank-1116357/
I went w the 3-gal trunk mount tank setup (w pump incorporated) since the overall size is very similar to a subwoofer I already have in the same location. Figured I would balance out that area or simply swap the new tank for the existing sub. May add the new SBG rear washer tank for the hatch area should I feel the need for add'l capacity, but I'm thinking three gallons will be plenty for me. ProMeth trunk mount setup
I went w the 3-gal trunk mount tank setup (w pump incorporated) since the overall size is very similar to a subwoofer I already have in the same location. Figured I would balance out that area or simply swap the new tank for the existing sub. May add the new SBG rear washer tank for the hatch area should I feel the need for add'l capacity, but I'm thinking three gallons will be plenty for me. ProMeth trunk mount setup
I like the integrated pump feature but I don’t know if I could deal with hearing 3 gallons of liquid sloshing around inside the cabin. I would be stopping to take a leak every 30 mins.
I like the stealth feature of the SakeBomb tank and that it’s behind the rear plastics that I am hoping will help insulate any liquid noise back there lol.
yes the Haltech is really the way to control the water meth so it’s mapped more appropriately for the tune. These cars are forever projects....
Let’s talk about verifying timing. I took a new out of the box timing light and I could not get it to strobe.
Apparently when plugs are fouled they may not fire. If they do not fire the timing light will not strobe.
Here are the race plugs that were in the trailing.
Now with the timing light working I locked the timing on the Haltech and the timing is perfect and does not float on a free rev either. Here it is at idle.
Replaced the 90 up top with a 120
Made a new coolant line. I didn’t like the last one I made that looped around. I’m getting better at making lines seeing Addicted Performamce sells you a kit and does t send you lines. Or refund you for the hack **** they sell of half the kit they send.
I needed the clearance from the turbo otherwise I would have stuck with the Xcessive lower. It now has a half inch of clearance. Enough to put a turbo blanket on. I also wrapped the manifold and downpipe.
07-04-18, 12:46 PM
