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This is my first build thread and RX7 #5.
Been a while since I work on the car. I will be asking help from some members.
It is 1994 Black R1. Bought from a guy that seems to know enough about RX7 just to be dangerous.
From what I can see it has
- HKS RS intake.
- Racing Beat single exhaust.
- Metal AST.
- Some sort of lowering springs on stock shocks.
Was told the engine rebuilt 5k miles ago. I don't have a way to confirm it.
The rear carpet has a square cut that I assume where battery use to be there.
For right now I am working with the interior now. Got used door panel. The old one have extra hole that covered, I assume it was for tweeters from component speakers.
- Replace door speakers.
- Replace door panels.
- Replace steering wheel.
What kind of radiator people use now? Koyo or Moshimoto?
I am planning on getting PowerFC.
What kind of injectors should I be looking for?
Not looking for big HP build. Just around 350-400, Just enough for fun car, and maybe 1-2 track days a year.
Any idea from OG members?
Don't have any good pictures. This will have to do for now.
Yeah, you are right R2. Maybe one of the moderator if nice enough to help me change the title.
I am looking into installing an engine torque brace. I lost the 2 bolts that install to the fender.
There are 2 threaded holes on the pass side fender. Anyone can tell me what is the thread pitch for the 2 bolts?
Anyone can advise me with Deatschwerks DW300 fuel pump? It looks like that will work for the car. Reason that I ask is because I have 2 spare new DW300 pumps.
Not sure on that fuel pump, most guys run Walbro pumps.
Radiator go with the Koyo, it's a winner. I just use a regular Koyo, fits great, works great, quality construction. The N flow is nice but you may not really need it especially in Seattle, it may be over cooling for you.
I got the steering wheel installed with HKB hub. It has the airbag canceling resistor, so no airbag warning light.
The steering wheel is one of the flat bottom AB-Flug steering wheel. I just use one of the spare Momo horn button that I have for now.
Can anyone guide me about installing door speakers? The door wiring butchered by previous owner. The speaker has + and -. What color wiring on the door?
Can anyone guide me on air pump.
I want to remove it. What kind of belt and pulley should I get. I am aware about the smell without the air pump.
Do I need to do anything else? Do I need aftermarket ECU? Like PowerFC?
Installed Kakimoto dual exhaust. Not too loud, but I still have stock cat and midpipe.
Will try to post the video later.
Full function and pineapple racing make air pump idler pulleys. You don't strictly need an aftermarket ecu. The 94 body and electrical manual is downloadable, if you search for it. And you should be able to determine wire colors etc from that.
Also installed the Garage Alpha front strut bar. Rubbing a little bit on the HKS RS intake. Will look at it later and see if the intake can be adjusted.
Finally decided to do a full rebuild on the engine.
The car have an issue with hard to start after shutting it off, doesn't matter if it been running for a while or just for a little bit. Seems to be flooded easily, the spark plugs wet.
After deciding what to do with the engine/suspension/body, decided that rebuilding the engine will be the best route. Do it once, do it right.
This will be the first time for me taking an engine off. I will be needing some help from some people here in the forum and asking a lot of questions.
Will be doing single turbo. Still deciding what kind of intercooler and radiator.
I would appreciate anyone that willing to show me what to do when converting to single turbo.
I have picture of single turbo vacuum diagram that I am going to follow.
Thinking on taking the main engine wiring harness and re-wrap and label all the connectors.
Can anyone teach me which connectors to eliminate? And what is the best way to do it.
Does anyone just do it themselves, or send it to someone to do?
I marked some of the pictures so I have reference back.
Please tell me if I marked wrong.
If I am going with electric water pump, do I need these 2 connectors that is on the back of water pump housing?
I have got all the accessories out of the engine. The job this coming weekend is to pull the engine, and also leave the transmission in the car.
Anyone can share a pointer to make it easier?
What to do the release bearing?
I assume that I am taking the engine out with the flywheel, counter balance, and clutch, and pressure plate.
It's so easy to pull the transmission with the motor, I don't see any reason not to. I find it much easier to remove the throw-out bearing from the pressure plate with the transmission out. I've had the most luck with pressing the clutch fork with my hand then inserting a flat head screw driver between the ring and throw-out bearing. Twist the screw driver to separate the bearing while releasing the clutch fork.
Trying to separate the engine from transmission with no luck.
Still trying to take the engine out without the transmission (leaving the trans in the car).
Can see the throw out bearing (through the inspection hole on bell housing), but cannot release it. Can I try by pushing the clutch pedal?
Trying to separate the engine from transmission with no luck.
Still trying to take the engine out without the transmission (leaving the trans in the car).
Can see the throw out bearing (through the inspection hole on bell housing), but cannot release it. Can I try by pushing the clutch pedal?
I think I've said this somewhere before but I have the best luck by removing the clutch slave so you have access to where the slave depresses the clutch fork. I use two screwdrivers, one on each side of the ring to push the ring in (I've often had issues with the ring going in crooked and binding if I just use one). Once the ring is fully pushed in, then push on the clutch fork to separate the bearing assembly. Those videos listed above are great, this is just one of those things that can take a few tries. Good luck!
You need to re-watch the videos on how to disengage the clutch. If you started unbolting the trans and pulling on it before you disengaged the clutch it makes it MUCH harder. Bolt the trans back up and get the throwout bearing disconnected.
You need a good flashlight and a long flat head screwdriver with a wide tip to pop it loose. The throwout bearing snaps into the pressure plate like one of those Chinese finger handcuffs. You have to push the locking collar into the pressure plate then pop the release bearing out.
Also, FYI, it's so much easier to take everything apart when the engine is out of the car. I always disconnect just the things that tie the engine to the car then get it on the engine stand. That way you can sit there on a stool with plenty of room and light to remove everything. By the same token I assemble everything on the stand then put the motor in.
Trying to separate the engine from transmission with no luck.
Still trying to take the engine out without the transmission (leaving the trans in the car).
Can see the throw out bearing (through the inspection hole on bell housing), but cannot release it. Can I try by pushing the clutch pedal?
Two Options:
1. Spray the centerlock collar with penetrating lube because they collar can get stuck in the assembly due to a lack of lubrication. let is sit and then try to pry the collar in again.
2. unbolt the pressure plate through the access hole and let it float and then remove the locking ring for the collar later.
You need to re-watch the videos on how to disengage the clutch. If you started unbolting the trans and pulling on it before you disengaged the clutch it makes it MUCH harder. Bolt the trans back up and get the throwout bearing disconnected.
You need a good flashlight and a long flat head screwdriver with a wide tip to pop it loose. The throwout bearing snaps into the pressure plate like one of those Chinese finger handcuffs. You have to push the locking collar into the pressure plate then pop the release bearing out.
Also, FYI, it's so much easier to take everything apart when the engine is out of the car. I always disconnect just the things that tie the engine to the car then get it on the engine stand. That way you can sit there on a stool with plenty of room and light to remove everything. By the same token I assemble everything on the stand then put the motor in.
Dale
I second this. It is much easier to pull the engine with the accessories and everything attached and go about removing them after the engine is removed.
I also would recommend, as others have, that pulling the transmission with the engine is usually the easier route.
I did not have a problem separating the engine from the trans. There is a little peep hole on the bottom of the trans. I just opened that and unbolted the clutch assembly from the flywheel. Afterwards with an engine lift and a little wiggling the engine came out without having to pull the tranny.
Got the engine out today.
Ended up taking the transmission out with the engine.
Definitely easier to separate the transmission from the engine with them out in the open.
Now trying to decide the engine rebuild.
What kind of porting?
Who to build the engine.
Not looking for big number, just something fun to drive.
Idea/suggestion?
05-07-19, 02:57 PM
Slow build of 1994 R1 RX7.
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