My スーパー耐久 ST-3 FD3S build thread (restore JDM endurance race car )
#329
RE for life
Thread Starter
problem now
Was going to reuse my old water senting
From my old omori gauge
But look like the senting was press in , don't think it can be reuse able
So time to find some water temp gauge with less exotic thread !!!
Was going to reuse my old water senting
From my old omori gauge
But look like the senting was press in , don't think it can be reuse able
So time to find some water temp gauge with less exotic thread !!!
Last edited by diyman25; 04-06-18 at 07:44 AM.
#332
Derwin
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Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: MTL, QC
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Such a great thread to read especially heading into the season!
Has been many years I have not played with the stock style setup but remember having such an issue in 2010, we made a steel spacer from the shape of an older gasket for the lines believe, heated them and pryed into place.
Has been many years I have not played with the stock style setup but remember having such an issue in 2010, we made a steel spacer from the shape of an older gasket for the lines believe, heated them and pryed into place.
#333
RE for life
Thread Starter
Taking some pic of turbo hot side
Hopefully they can keep in this for long time
But I did brake 3 stud (I just change it when I upgrade to GCG)when I remove turbo....
Hopefully they can keep in this for long time
But I did brake 3 stud (I just change it when I upgrade to GCG)when I remove turbo....
#334
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
You could knurl the old water temp sender base and press it back in with sealant (or undercut an o-ring boss into the temp sender base and face cut the iron if you want to get fancy) if you are pressed for time.
If you tap for threads I advise you use straight threads and a face cut on the iron with crush washer to seal as it is easy to crack the iron there if you do tapered threads as it creates a spreading force.
If you tap for threads I advise you use straight threads and a face cut on the iron with crush washer to seal as it is easy to crack the iron there if you do tapered threads as it creates a spreading force.
#335
RE for life
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by BLUE TII
You could knurl the old water temp sender base and press it back in with sealant (or undercut an o-ring boss into the temp sender base and face cut the iron if you want to get fancy) if you are pressed for time.
If you tap for threads I advise you use straight threads and a face cut on the iron with crush washer to seal as it is easy to crack the iron there if you do tapered threads as it creates a spreading force.
If you tap for threads I advise you use straight threads and a face cut on the iron with crush washer to seal as it is easy to crack the iron there if you do tapered threads as it creates a spreading force.
It happend to one of 13b pp motor , one of front cover oil feeding passage for turbo that engine build tide it with bolt and washer
Crack in a year
#338
RE for life
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Smokey The Talon
what's the story on the AN lines on the transmission? Some sort of cooler setup?
I have transmission cooling set up but
Instead of just pump back to sump
My set up can cool direct to gear it self
#339
Long time on-looker
iTrader: (33)
I'd appreciate any other pictures you have of the trans cooler setup. I was going to put my cooler return into the trans fill hole, but always interested in other options. Good luck in your upcoming season.
With your new motor build, did you still keep the oil drain from the catch can back to the oil pan like before? It seems like that might be the only way to get rid of catch-can issues on the stock turbos.
With your new motor build, did you still keep the oil drain from the catch can back to the oil pan like before? It seems like that might be the only way to get rid of catch-can issues on the stock turbos.
#340
RE for life
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Smokey The Talon
I'd appreciate any other pictures you have of the trans cooler setup. I was going to put my cooler return into the trans fill hole, but always interested in other options. Good luck in your upcoming season.
With your new motor build, did you still keep the oil drain from the catch can back to the oil pan like before? It seems like that might be the only way to get rid of catch-can issues on the stock turbos.
With your new motor build, did you still keep the oil drain from the catch can back to the oil pan like before? It seems like that might be the only way to get rid of catch-can issues on the stock turbos.
Basically is 3 an feeting joints block to pump
My set up is much trouble to put but work much better !!!
I still keep the catch can to tank set up
Let me how this will work out~
#347
RE for life
Thread Starter
Rz brake or they call it 17inch brake
I have endless brake pad with stock brake caliper and rotor, the point is to have good brake balance
Told me about it...............
5hr just to wait on that spacer
If u have two Post lift is much Easier and faster
I have endless brake pad with stock brake caliper and rotor, the point is to have good brake balance
Told me about it...............
5hr just to wait on that spacer
If u have two Post lift is much Easier and faster
#348
RE for life
Thread Starter
Lately have hard time shift to reverse
Now i might know why , look at the one of plate
It get deformed, barely with in a spec .5mm
Might have change to new one ... or machine down to flat
Now i might know why , look at the one of plate
It get deformed, barely with in a spec .5mm
Might have change to new one ... or machine down to flat