The Monsterbox 4 Rotor
#1602
Rotary Enthusiast
The stand off is a good idea, we used something similiar as a heat shield on a race miata, it ran along the portion of the header thats under your foot as our race shoes were melting to the floor.....
Ideally you would want a heat shield that gets close to the hood or even seals it off.
Here was a race miata solution, where the 2-5HP loss from heat soak matters in a 15 minute race. Its actually a dense foam with a metal shield in it for shape, and yes it doesn't catch on fire even tho it touches the header.
BUT Rotary exhaust is an entirely different story...which is why turbosource has inconel shields like it was an Apache helicopter or other turbine engine exhaust shielding.
Ideally you would want a heat shield that gets close to the hood or even seals it off.
Here was a race miata solution, where the 2-5HP loss from heat soak matters in a 15 minute race. Its actually a dense foam with a metal shield in it for shape, and yes it doesn't catch on fire even tho it touches the header.
BUT Rotary exhaust is an entirely different story...which is why turbosource has inconel shields like it was an Apache helicopter or other turbine engine exhaust shielding.
Last edited by Gilgamesh; 08-17-18 at 07:46 AM.
#1603
The Ancient
I wonder if double-walled intake runners could be made where you could run water between the walls to keep them cooler? The usual ways of blankets or incolnel or whatever are problematic given how crowded the engine bay is. I also always liked the idea of putting the turbo at the bottom of the engine bay and back near to the bell housing.
Last edited by gmonsen; 08-17-18 at 08:15 PM.
#1604
~17 MPG
iTrader: (2)
1. Everything is looking great, I'm excited that you're so close to a running car again.
2. I can't see any reason not to have the downpipe ceramic coated, even if it flakes away it can't hurt much since it's after the turbocharger. Adding a slightly larger pipe / heat shield to mimic a dual-wall exhaust sounds like a great idea too, I may copy that. It may even allow you to add wrap (between the downpipe and the outer pipe/shield) since the outer pipe/shield should protect the wrap from fuel or oil splashes.
3. Dual walled intake runners would be interesting to try if your air/water intercooler's heat exhanger has enough spare capacity, but it may increase the 'heat soaked' temperature. Personally I'd be worried about the additional complexity.
2. I can't see any reason not to have the downpipe ceramic coated, even if it flakes away it can't hurt much since it's after the turbocharger. Adding a slightly larger pipe / heat shield to mimic a dual-wall exhaust sounds like a great idea too, I may copy that. It may even allow you to add wrap (between the downpipe and the outer pipe/shield) since the outer pipe/shield should protect the wrap from fuel or oil splashes.
3. Dual walled intake runners would be interesting to try if your air/water intercooler's heat exhanger has enough spare capacity, but it may increase the 'heat soaked' temperature. Personally I'd be worried about the additional complexity.
#1605
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (12)
I'm looking forward to see this thing up and running! I personally don't think much is going to help with the heat. Ceramic coating may have a marginal effect, but in the end, it's a 4 rotor with a huge turbo packed in a small space. The vented hood you have should keep things in check.
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gmonsen (08-18-18)
#1606
The Ancient
That got a huge laugh out of me! Zach's got the most complex motor in the country without a doubt already! But, you're probably right. Adding more complexity probably isn't the best idea. I still think putting the turbo down low on builds like this might make some sense.
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RGHTBrainDesign (08-21-18)
The following users liked this post:
RGHTBrainDesign (08-21-18)
#1617
thank you
Credit all goes to Walker Morgan for making all of these parts,
I was going to make firing up teh engine the priority, but second thought now is to cover the engine bay with plastic, and then finish the rest of the car, do the rear end stuff, the rear hatch lexan install/NACA ducts, the wiring back there, remount the fuel cooler and etc first, cut/buff the body, clean out the interior, overspray areas, etc. Knock out all the boring stuff. Get the new water pump and fans wired up, new head lights and etc.
THEN
when its all set and done and car is fully completed, move on to finish the plumbing and install wiring harness and fire it up
Credit all goes to Walker Morgan for making all of these parts,
I was going to make firing up teh engine the priority, but second thought now is to cover the engine bay with plastic, and then finish the rest of the car, do the rear end stuff, the rear hatch lexan install/NACA ducts, the wiring back there, remount the fuel cooler and etc first, cut/buff the body, clean out the interior, overspray areas, etc. Knock out all the boring stuff. Get the new water pump and fans wired up, new head lights and etc.
THEN
when its all set and done and car is fully completed, move on to finish the plumbing and install wiring harness and fire it up