Ever changing FD
Recently bought a 2nd hand 94 FD. Told the wife its my mid life crisis car. The exterior is in the worst shape, chips, cracks, dents. Engine runs well, but cold cranking takes a few seconds. Interior isnt too bad, just a tiny bit of cracked leather on the seats as to be expected. I have many long term plans for her and hope to get roughly 500hp on pump gas.
She came with some mods: Non sequential turbo egr disabled but not removed Microtech Lt-10s ecu Apexi power intake Apexi N1 exhaust Unknown aftermarket down pipe Apexi AVCR Apexi BOV Tein Flex Z coil overs Supra tt fuel pump Cracked and crumbling bodykit Bent and dented fender Few things needs repairs: Aftermarket driver side power lock actuator replacement Dented oil pan needs replacing A/C leak from dryer connectors line to condensor Passenger power window intermittent failure Frayed ps, ac belt Aftermarket oil temp guage not working Exhaust temp guage no read out Missing alarm hood pin Driver door map box lid has one end tab broken Future for this FD: Apexi exhaust control valve (its just so damn loud right now, barely tolerable with the silencer on) New bodykit and complete repaint 99 front bumper lights AST delete by rotarywerks stubby version Battery relocaton to trunk SBG Smart Coils IGN-1A CJM prime and secondary fuel rails CJM pressure regulator 1050/1700cc injectors Stoptech ss brake lines Stoptech cross drilled/ slotted brake disks Block off plates for already disconnected egr Pulley kit with PR idler pulley Duel oil coolers Greddy v-mount Undecided which single turbo. Leaning towards efr 9180 AEM water/methanol injection RE Amemiya short shift RE Amemiya 400g shift knob Whats ive done so far: First was the map box lid. Gave the end with the broken tab a quick sand so its flat. Pre drilled a tiny hole where the old tab use to be. Found a screw with the appropriate width and screwed it in the pre drilled hole then cut it off the head at the right length. Slipped right back into place with some gental persuasion. Works perfectly. Hard to believe ppl install alarms without hood pins but a wire pulled to the engine bay and a new hood pin has the alarm ringing when the hood is popped. Loose wire reconnected for the oil temp gauge and is now working properly. New exhaust temp guage probe. Now working properly. After market power door actuator replaced and power doors are now fully working from alarm system Opened up the driver side power window switch to find one of those plastic white pins were worn down flat for the passenger window side. Fabricated a new pin out of a small piece of abs pipe and sanded it down to same shape and size. Now passenger power window is working properly. Battery has been relocated to the trunk running Rockville 0 guage 100% copper wire through the driver side with a stinger 250amp breaker placed close to the battery with capped battery terminals. Slight mod to the battery tray removing the dip to get it to sit flat and bolted down to the trunk. Block off plates installed and already disconnected egr items removed. Cruise control deleted. Lets face it. I have never used one on any car in my 20 something yrs of driving. |
What the hell man... where are the pics!!! We need pics!. Sounds awesome so far.
|
New body kit arrived. and i removed both sides skirts and rear fins that were molded to the body. An angle grinder with a 80grit sanding disk made quick work of the removal. Only took about 2hrs to get them off and grounded down to a fairly flat surface and primed it so rust wont set in. The fenders will be replaced also. I will be test fitting the new kit once i get more time. then off to the body shop to get the hole car painted.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3b125953db.jpg Cracked side skirts https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b6ade6cba1.jpg Cracked rear fins https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9fd4b1663a.jpg All Removed |
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:51 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands