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The main question I had for Pettit was, what to do with the outlet of the BOV. The stock one is a 180' that goes into the air-box. The Pettit BOV is a 90' so it would be difficult to route it to the air-box. He said to just leave it pointed downward.....doesn't need a filter because it's pushing air out. If need be I could look for a heater hose with the right bends to get it back to the stock air-box. Petitt did say the early air-box's aren't that efficient....I'd like to keep my FD engine compartment looking stock.
If the CRV and BOV aren't routed back to the turbo intake would that fix the ingestion problem?
If the CRV and BOV aren't routed back to the turbo intake would that fix the ingestion problem?
Yes, it would.
That is what I have done for now, just the stock rubber hose from the CRV back into an M2 airbox with a filter on the end to help muffle it.
CRV plastic bits aren't going to make it past the CRV filter and then the turbo inlet filters and very unlikely they will suck back through the CRV since as Pettit says it is always positive pressure out of the turbo.
HeyGreg Sabol- sorry for the slow reply, have been on vacation. Looks like @BLUE TIIhas answered your questions (thank you ).
So yes - long story short, my CRV and BOV are plumbed back to the intake filters like the stock setup. Meaning the plastic shards were blown back to the filters, then sucked back into the turbine. Putting a separate filter on the end of these would fix the issue for anyone running sequentially.
For me running parallel, I will just be eliminating both of these parts. It is very unfortunate that these were overlooked and left on the car. I had assumed they were left there for a reason, until i took apart the Y Pipe setup and realized they serve no purpose.... but no point dwelling on it now, I will fix it and keep pushing the build forwards
Tom
Last edited by FEED AFFLUX v5; 10-13-18 at 11:30 AM.
Such a superior build! I love all 7'S but your's is one of my top 5. Interested to see if you stick with the twins or take it to a single.
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words!
I am still waiting to hear from the shop on the condition of the twins as a candidate for rebuild. I will keep you all posted here, I have 7 more months of winter left and a long list of jobs I want to do on the car
So in an effort to cure my paranoia about any metal getting into the block; I decided to buy cheap endoscope off amazon and see how things look through the exhaust ports.
The video turned out better than I expected and much to my relief everything looks good inside. I did not see any scratches or nicks in the rotors or the apex seals as they went by. But if anyone notices anything I missed please let me know. The block has already been fogged for winter hence all the oil you can see.
Anyway thought I would share the videos for those interested. The video of the front rotor came out really nice, but I struggled to get a nice angle on the rear.
Damn... Those videos actually look pretty good. Now im thinking about getting one too so i can check the rear rotor of one of my cars since it seems to have stuck seals, or at least thats what i hope lol. Which one was it that you bought? if you can pm me the info.
Been a while since I updated anything here. Getting parts to resolve the turbo damage coupled with busy weekends in the run up to Christmas has really slowed my progress.H opefully the New Year will be much more productive!
However, I was trawling through some old photos and thought I would share these.
Two black RX7's, two countries and 10 years apart.......my first FD and my current FD.....things sure have come a long way
Yep, I love them! Give a fighter jet type feel from the drivers seat with them wrapped right across to the Power FC Commander!
Originally Posted by Johnny Kommavongsa
Interesting to see how your styling has changed in 10 years.
Yeah, I think the big factor is that 10 years of career progression has removed some of the financial barrier of want vs affordability. Some things have changed, but I notice my love of analogue gauges and big wings has not!
Last edited by FEED AFFLUX v5; 12-16-18 at 05:16 PM.
Thanks, Yep it was a nice car. But my choices on the build were severely limited by my knowledge, skills and funds at the time. I am very happy to be where I am now with my build
If you haven't already made the decision I'd recommend sticking with the twins. I remember liking my car best when I was pushing 15 lbs with all the supporting mods on the sequential twins. Nothing blew and I drove the car really hard every time out for a long time. I went to parallel and liked it less. I went to a large single and liked it even less. Obviously the car was faster once it got going but it wasn't nearly as fun to drive.
Man you've sure got a ton of money and effort in this thing to still be rockin a good ole fashion Power FC. Any thoughts of upgrading in the future? With a modern ecu and mild to medium sized streetport, you can pretty well tune it to run like a factory oem car and toss in enough engine protection to ensure your motor only gets rebuilt when you choose to do it.
If you haven't already made the decision I'd recommend sticking with the twins. I remember liking my car best when I was pushing 15 lbs with all the supporting mods on the sequential twins. Nothing blew and I drove the car really hard every time out for a long time. I went to parallel and liked it less. I went to a large single and liked it even less. Obviously the car was faster once it got going but it wasn't nearly as fun to drive.
Appreciate your input - fun to drive is very important, especially as this is a fair weather toy to put a smile on my face!
Man you've sure got a ton of money and effort in this thing to still be rockin a good ole fashion Power FC. Any thoughts of upgrading in the future? With a modern ecu and mild to medium sized streetport, you can pretty well tune it to run like a factory oem car and toss in enough engine protection to ensure your motor only gets rebuilt when you choose to do it.
Skeese
If I go single and mess with the injectors again I will likely upgrade the ECU.
But at this stage, the power FC is fully functional, the tune is super conservative and when I asked prior to the rebuild; the engine builder/tuners advice was to keep it
If you haven't already made the decision I'd recommend sticking with the twins. I remember liking my car best when I was pushing 15 lbs with all the supporting mods on the sequential twins. Nothing blew and I drove the car really hard every time out for a long time. I went to parallel and liked it less. I went to a large single and liked it even less. Obviously the car was faster once it got going but it wasn't nearly as fun to drive.
Like you I went non-sequential and hated it. So I went single and love it again. But the key is that for street driven cars, large singles are out of the question.
love this project! do you happen to know the specs of the wheels?
Unfortunately no I don't. They came with the car from Japan. All I know is that they are 20" (11's in the front and 12's in the rear).
Really wish they were 19" but will work with what I have got, they are super expensive and very light so I have no plans to change them anytime soon.
Originally Posted by tomCTR
Amazing car this dude! Legend!
Thank you!
Last edited by FEED AFFLUX v5; 01-10-19 at 09:36 AM.
Well it's been a long time coming but the car is almost ready for the road. Both my wife and I recently changed jobs and it took forever for some parts to arrive, but I expect to be driving n the next few weeks, assuming the snow has all gone!
I decided to stick with the twins for the time being. 375 rwhp is more than enough to get me in trouble and I have other items I want to address before adding any more power. The turbine was replaced and high speed balanced by an experienced shop. So these are once again like new. I was very happy to see no signs of cracking or fatigue at the manifolds (as you would expect for a set with <1000km on them!).
I had a bear of a time removing one of the exhaust manifold studs, Even after a week of PB blaster it snapped, then I got a stud extractor and after heat from a torch the remainder snapped again. I then pulled the manifold and had a shop drill the stud out. They even tried welding before drilling with no luck, it really was stuck in there. Upon installation I used nickel anti seize, which is supposed to be good up to 2400F......hopefully that helps in the future.
Due in part to my OCD and also because I never want to remove/reinstall the twins again (until they are swapped for a single turbo), all studs were brand new OEM, as were all gaskets. They certainly are not cheap, but at least I know it will be right. The stock BOV and CRV were deleted and the openings blocked off with silicone caps from 034 Motorsports, pricey but can take over 600F and are specifically designed to handle boost pressure. I will let you all know how they perform.
As expected for <1000km of driving, no cracks or wear!
As expected for <1000km of driving, no cracks or wear!
All shields cleaned up and painted with ceramic
All shields cleaned up and painted, new OEM gaskets and new OEM studs, including the four to the block.
Oooooh, shiny!
Stock BOV and CRV deleted, openings blocked off with silicone caps from 034 Motorsports, pricey but can take over 600F and are specifically designed to handle boost pressure.
Whilst doing some other work on the car I decided to take the opportunity to have a look at the exhaust; specifically I wanted to know how much this beast weighs.
10-10-18, 11:05 AM
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