hahha thanks man

chappy- how did u run the alternator wire? im trying to figure out how to run that without being tooo visible... only thing i can come up with is come behind the UIM and under it to the alternator...

I have 1 makes for the cleanest oil change you'll ever do. Only bad part is it takes a while for the oil to drain since the hole is smaller. I got mine from here http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/Se...lts.asp?Cat=30 i don't remember if it was F-106 or F-107 :scratch:

I also think it's leaving a bit of oil in the bottom of the pan since the threading takes up some room before you get to the whole. I'm thinking of ditching it for a standard magnetic plug.

I'm having the same problem man :(
I'm currently redoing the alt/starter loom - I think I'm going to run the alt part of it almost straight down, and tuck it as close as I can to the slight recess at the back of the front cover where the PS/AC bracket usually sits. Then turn through 90, and run along the side of the sump before dipping down by the box and under the rail into the wing.

sih thats not too bad of an idea....!

waht i recently noticed, most people relocated their fuse box by cutting and extending the wires... i actually relocated my whole harness..... what a pita!

thanks gordoo! im hoping to make it into the ICFF (internaltion contemporary furniture fair) at the jabcob javits center under my school name. if i do im planning on making more, these are the colors i was planning to offer as the cushions are interchangeable

http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...r/DSC_0925.jpg

the way you did it requires the most work but will have the cleanest end result in my opinion.

my way only required extending a few wires, but my boxes are still up front, just hidden.

Yeah^^ i like how clean its turning out.. it actually saves more weight( not much) but ive been mostly shortening wires vs extending them... i bought a few spools in anticipation to have to add wirese but i definitely didnt need that much!

Yea I may pick up one of the fumoto oil dealies myself...

http://www.fumotousa.com/

I mean we change our oil enough it is probably worth it right? From what I read, people seem to really love it. As long as we don't off road or our cars aren't to low I think we are set.

Did you need an extender?

Mine reason i haven't gotten rid of it. It's so easy and clean, i just wish the oil flow was faster.

Sorry for the thread derail Benny but the fumoto is really cool.

Mazda All models upto '95 including 626,929,Miata,Millenia,MPV,MX3,MX6,Protege,RX7 - Size: F-106

I think the one you linked is 109.

Have you checked our the fram sure drain? There seems to be more info on both on the 8 club. Seems like the consensus about the fram is that there is less worry about clearance from the ground but it leaves more oil in the pan and removing the oil takes 1 or 2 extra little annoying steps. Jacking up one side a bit higher may help the drainage problem a bit but ugh that sounds scary. It sounds like on an FB, with the fumoto, you can even reach the valve from the top of the car. I'm a bit worried about the valves getting clogged as well.

Here is more info about the adapter we would need...

There are two, is it on the driver side or passenger side?

lol no prob, posted it for a reason... ill let you do the research and then ill follow your lead when you order ;)

Never even heard of it tell now. I think on my next oil change i'll open the valve tell it runs dry then remove the valve to see how much is really left in there. It doesn't hang any lower then the bottom of your engine cradle if you're low enough to hit that you have other problems. Like fix your retarded stance. I'm not sure what valves you're worried about getting clogged?

I'll take a few pics of it tonight.

Your mystery connector is the second part of J4-01 and can be referenced on page 90 of the electrical manual. The two big things it controls is your horn and starter cut.

You might get a kick out of my thread on norotors which annotates just about every connector in the FD chassis. I know we're the bad guys in some of your eyes, but this info may help you out :D

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=2468.0

Lane

LANE, THANK YOU SO MUCH. ive spent over a half hour looking overandover the manual and couldnt find it.

hmm, no horns so no worries on that... excuse my idiocy but what exactly does the started cut do? do you know what color wire is the horns?

You're very welcome.

Well, I spoke too soon when I said this connector "controls the horns." J4-01 is a security CPU connector so it just ties in to a few systems that gives the CPU the ability to override. In the case of the horns, it has an override path to the horn relay through the G/O wire that it cycles to ground to "beep" the horns when the alarm goes off.

The starter kill is a relay in your driver's kickpanel area that creates an open in the FD's starting circuit making it so the would-be-thief can't crank your car while the alarm system is active even if they have the key. Of course a smart thief could short the starter kill relay and bypass the protection, and smarter thieves would definitely think of more effective methods :)

Lane

benny, that clip connects into your cpu that provides and override for when ur alarm goes off, flashing lights, horn going off and security shut down ( so you cant start the car when the alarm is set off ) ect ect

lol i told you doing that harness tuck is not fun hahaha lemme know if you ever need help i'll drop by, that red FD i was building is almost done i'll bring it over since i need to lay some milage with on it

Lane- so if i was to run an aftermarket alarm system, could i cut that connector off? im not tooo crazy about security since i have other hidden methods to make my car "un-drivable" by theft..
thanks again!!

tony- haha yeah it is a PITA. i've been managing O.K. so far.. will be calling for you assistance soon... hopefully.. lol alarm??? =)

Sure, you can delete the connector without any repercussions other than losing functionality with the stock security system. However, at least 2 of the wires in that connector would be useful to tap into with an aftermarket alarm, you may want to keep the wiring in-tact.

W/L = Headlight flash when pulled to ground
LG/R = Starter cut engaged when pulled to ground.

Aftermarket alarms can use the G/O wire to the horn relay to beep the horn when the system is tripped, but most people I know don't setup their alarms to use a siren and horn. Your choice though.

Lane

Hey sorry I haven't been around here... I haven't done the alternator but here is my plan. I have a 150 amp main breaker after the positive battery terminal that all of my battery hook ups go to. There will be a 4 gauge wire from this breaker to the starter for main power to the starter. Then I will route a 6 gauge wire from the alternator to the starter and the battery will charge through the main starter wire. Hope that helps.

eh, my horns never worked so all that wire was deleted already, thanks again lane!

chappy- i was referring more to how were you going to route the alternator wire to make it "hidden" or "tucked"

oh well without actually doing it I planned on dropping the wire straight down the side of the motor on the spark plug side, then continuing along the oil pan using the unused threaded holes in the block for holders all the way to the starter. It won't be "tucked" so to say but will stay clean. With battery cables of this size i like to make them very accesible, clean, and away from anything potentially sharp.

Is this the show where they purchase your design for mass production?

Kinda, Im sure peoples designs do get chosen to be bought and manufactured but its mostly a show (i think) i dont really know lol

What a PITA. full of regret. this totally sucks. i have majority of the wires connected. brackets are made for the fuse boxes and relays. still need to wire the rad fan relays/extend the wires, ground ALL the wires, figure out the odd loose wires =/ and trouble shoot this nightmare.

since i relocated the WHOLE wiring harness, some wires just zigzaged back and forth. thus i deleted the connector and just connected them directly. Ironically, the way i installed my harness makes a lot of sense. i only extended a FEW wires. majority of them i was shortening the wires so i am saving weight vs gaining, pretty cool! if anyone in NJ is an electric guru and wants to lend a hand, please let me know. i dont expect this to work correctly and i definitely screwed myself on this one hahah

pics of the on going nightmare... (yes i suck at welding, yes im taking a class, yes ive been welding for less than 2 months, and yes, im using flux core. i havent gone to get a tank of argon/co2)
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC_1185.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC_1186.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC_1187.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC_1188.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC_1189.jpg
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC_1191.jpg

pass handle i made!
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...h/DSC_1149.jpg

and oh yesss, new additions to the garage!!!!
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/DSC_1169.jpg
oh yeah.
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/DSC_1176.jpg
oh yeahh
http://i426.photobucket.com/albums/p...e/DSC_1183.jpg
OH YEAHHH!!!! =)