Arie: RE Amemiya 993 EFR track car build
10-03-17, 02:44 AM
#51
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
@___@ can't believe the Hawk HP+ can handle a 30 minute session on on a track with your set-up, those are my favorite STREET pads so far.
Nice you don't have to swap out tires or pads from street to track. Its amazing how much better these streetable consumables have gotten!
I hope SCCA makes a racing class for FD on street tires soon (besides 100% stock class).
Nice you don't have to swap out tires or pads from street to track. Its amazing how much better these streetable consumables have gotten!
I hope SCCA makes a racing class for FD on street tires soon (besides 100% stock class).
I have to admit its quite fun driving the car to the track and watching everyone else pull their cars off trailers.
10-03-17, 10:46 AM
#52
I would like more initial bite from the pads.
What pads were you coming from? I might like those even better.
I came from Porterfield R4 and no other experience with performance pads to speak of. Coming from the R4 I had to relearn the brake pedal on my TII as I was used to applying hard initially and the HP+ would just lock doing that. The FD came on HP+ which is what turned me on to them for my FC and RX-8 and when I went to 14" front brakes on the FD I kept the HP+.
10-03-17, 05:47 PM
#53
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
Interesting, the awesome initial bite of the HP+ is what my friends and I love about them.
What pads were you coming from? I might like those even better.
I came from Porterfield R4 and no other experience with performance pads to speak of. Coming from the R4 I had to relearn the brake pedal on my TII as I was used to applying hard initially and the HP+ would just lock doing that. The FD came on HP+ which is what turned me on to them for my FC and RX-8 and when I went to 14" front brakes on the FD I kept the HP+.
What pads were you coming from? I might like those even better.
I came from Porterfield R4 and no other experience with performance pads to speak of. Coming from the R4 I had to relearn the brake pedal on my TII as I was used to applying hard initially and the HP+ would just lock doing that. The FD came on HP+ which is what turned me on to them for my FC and RX-8 and when I went to 14" front brakes on the FD I kept the HP+.
The HP+ do have better initial torque compared to my daily (running ATE oem pads, e90 335i) but about 70% compared to the DTC30s
10-04-17, 05:39 PM
#54
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
Quick update, I have not done a compression test but progress in other areas continues!
I have removed the coils, solenoid rack / vac line hard pipes, installed the new turbo oil fitting, and most excitingly test fit the turbo and manifold!
3 of the 4 manifold to engine studs have seized nuts so need to get fresh studs / nuts.
On the RHD fd3s there is a water hard line (for the heater core) that runs next to the turbocharges, this fouled the efr compressor cover so i need to decide what to do with that.
Also if you havnt seen it this is most of what is used to control the factory sequential turbos, i have to admit it felt great throwing this away after spending way too much time on diagnosing it.
I have removed the coils, solenoid rack / vac line hard pipes, installed the new turbo oil fitting, and most excitingly test fit the turbo and manifold!
3 of the 4 manifold to engine studs have seized nuts so need to get fresh studs / nuts.
On the RHD fd3s there is a water hard line (for the heater core) that runs next to the turbocharges, this fouled the efr compressor cover so i need to decide what to do with that.
Also if you havnt seen it this is most of what is used to control the factory sequential turbos, i have to admit it felt great throwing this away after spending way too much time on diagnosing it.
11-07-17, 06:37 PM
#55
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
Time for a bit of a update, still making progress on the single turbo build, from where i last updated i have done the following:
- New block > manifold studs
- Clocked turbo
- Removed themo housing for cleaning
- Installed AEM oil pressure sensor and temp sensor in a FFE oil pedestal
- Designed and printed a mount for the 3 bar map sensor
- Drained AC and removed (though it will be going back in)
- Test fitted the rest of the vmount kit (unfortunately fouls on my front tow hook)
- Picked up a surge tank (aftermarket industries, unfortunately they missed some fittings and a pressure gauge on my order and wont respond via email or social media...)
- Modified the ECU case to fit the Link G4
- New block > manifold studs
- Clocked turbo
- Removed themo housing for cleaning
- Installed AEM oil pressure sensor and temp sensor in a FFE oil pedestal
- Designed and printed a mount for the 3 bar map sensor
- Drained AC and removed (though it will be going back in)
- Test fitted the rest of the vmount kit (unfortunately fouls on my front tow hook)
- Picked up a surge tank (aftermarket industries, unfortunately they missed some fittings and a pressure gauge on my order and wont respond via email or social media...)
- Modified the ECU case to fit the Link G4
01-28-18, 11:34 PM
#56
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
Hi guys, time for another update i have been doing a couple of small jobs since the last update:
- Acid bathed the coolant / thermostat housings and primary injector rail
- Got the primary rail machined to fit secondary injectors
- Tapped the primary rail to 1/4 NPT
- Fitted the injectors and test fitted to the block
- Installed hatch struts from WJP005, no more propping the trunk up with my head!
- Disassembled the 993 lights, polished inside and outside lens. Removed the yellowed plastic diffusion plate. I tried sanding back and polishing out the diffusion plate but could not fully remove the yellowing, have not been able to find a new replacement yet so for now i am leaving them out.
- Removed the aerial
- Removed the rear wiper
- Started on the gauge wiring (running the ~24 wires from the centre speaker down to the passenger well is not fun).
Couple of pics of the acid bathing
(yep i know the pulley is on backwards, this was just a test fit, waiting on new mazda bolts for the pump/stat and pulley)
Headlights
Working hatch struts! Thanks WJP005!
Rails fitted
- Acid bathed the coolant / thermostat housings and primary injector rail
- Got the primary rail machined to fit secondary injectors
- Tapped the primary rail to 1/4 NPT
- Fitted the injectors and test fitted to the block
- Installed hatch struts from WJP005, no more propping the trunk up with my head!
- Disassembled the 993 lights, polished inside and outside lens. Removed the yellowed plastic diffusion plate. I tried sanding back and polishing out the diffusion plate but could not fully remove the yellowing, have not been able to find a new replacement yet so for now i am leaving them out.
- Removed the aerial
- Removed the rear wiper
- Started on the gauge wiring (running the ~24 wires from the centre speaker down to the passenger well is not fun).
Couple of pics of the acid bathing
(yep i know the pulley is on backwards, this was just a test fit, waiting on new mazda bolts for the pump/stat and pulley)
Headlights
Working hatch struts! Thanks WJP005!
Rails fitted
01-28-18, 11:35 PM
#57
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
2 days since the last update, still making progress at night when i can.
- Got 95% of my fittings! Just waiting on the ones that Aftermarket Industries are supplying. Using a Aussie product, Speedflow. I decided to run 5/16 for a few reasons, easy to replace lines with no tools, less fittings required, and run lines directly onto the factory hard lines. I know its not needed but added a check valve to the 044. I used Permatex high performance thread sealer on the NPT fittings. Fittings feel top notch.
- Plumbed the first fuel connection lol. Secondary rail to primary rail. Fire sleeve cause why not.
- Fitted the heat shield to the manifold. Fits like a glove, great quality from Turblown.
- One of the turbo nuts fowled on the turbo exhaust housing, ground in some relief, fits now.
- Lock wired the compressor bolts, with the aluminium housing Borg Warner supplies ARP bolts with lock wire holes. I couldnt find anything referenced but i figured if they supplied them they were expecting them to be used. Cant say lock wiring was fun, but its done.
- Fitted the turbo and manifold for the last time! Remember those fancy copper locking nuts... well one of them went nuclear on a stud and of course it was the back one that sits above the subframe. Took 90 min with a set of vice grips to get it out : lucky the studs are overnight items not EX Japan.
- Plumbed the turbo, oil + water. Again props to Turblown the hard lines are choice. Fits like a glove!
Lock wire
Turbo stack (thinking of replacing those shitty worm clamps..
1st line plumbed!
**** this nut
Turbo plumbed!
- Got 95% of my fittings! Just waiting on the ones that Aftermarket Industries are supplying. Using a Aussie product, Speedflow. I decided to run 5/16 for a few reasons, easy to replace lines with no tools, less fittings required, and run lines directly onto the factory hard lines. I know its not needed but added a check valve to the 044. I used Permatex high performance thread sealer on the NPT fittings. Fittings feel top notch.
- Plumbed the first fuel connection lol. Secondary rail to primary rail. Fire sleeve cause why not.
- Fitted the heat shield to the manifold. Fits like a glove, great quality from Turblown.
- One of the turbo nuts fowled on the turbo exhaust housing, ground in some relief, fits now.
- Lock wired the compressor bolts, with the aluminium housing Borg Warner supplies ARP bolts with lock wire holes. I couldnt find anything referenced but i figured if they supplied them they were expecting them to be used. Cant say lock wiring was fun, but its done.
- Fitted the turbo and manifold for the last time! Remember those fancy copper locking nuts... well one of them went nuclear on a stud and of course it was the back one that sits above the subframe. Took 90 min with a set of vice grips to get it out : lucky the studs are overnight items not EX Japan.
- Plumbed the turbo, oil + water. Again props to Turblown the hard lines are choice. Fits like a glove!
Lock wire
Turbo stack (thinking of replacing those shitty worm clamps..
1st line plumbed!
**** this nut
Turbo plumbed!
01-28-18, 11:36 PM
#58
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
In other news, i put a order in for a 2018 ND MX5 
Mazda NZ is doing a limited run of GT models (only 5 of them!).
The GT will come with bilstein shocks, brembo brakes, BBS wheels, thicker swaybar, LSD, recaro seats! It also comes in Soul Red Crystal, a new colour for next year, the same colour used on the RX Vision prototype!! They had to develop a new paint process for this colour.
Its coming in January.
If you have not driven one of these yet do yourself a favor and take one out as soon as possible! Its so much bloody fun! Weight is a little over 1000kg, the gearing is super close and shifts are nice and short, easy to do some controlled oversteer Best 'modern' car i have driven, more fun than the current cayman / boxters (and about 300kg lighter!).
Already ordered some MCA Street Performance coilovers
It will looks something like this (this is the old soul red though):
Mazda NZ is doing a limited run of GT models (only 5 of them!). The GT will come with bilstein shocks, brembo brakes, BBS wheels, thicker swaybar, LSD, recaro seats! It also comes in Soul Red Crystal, a new colour for next year, the same colour used on the RX Vision prototype
!! They had to develop a new paint process for this colour.Its coming in January.
If you have not driven one of these yet do yourself a favor and take one out as soon as possible! Its so much bloody fun! Weight is a little over 1000kg, the gearing is super close and shifts are nice and short, easy to do some controlled oversteer
Best 'modern' car i have driven, more fun than the current cayman / boxters (and about 300kg lighter!).Already ordered some MCA Street Performance coilovers
It will looks something like this (this is the old soul red though):
01-28-18, 11:36 PM
#59
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
I took a test MX5 out this weekend as well, so much fun, really looking forward to getting it out into the country side for some rear roads.
This weekend i didnt get much done:
- Added a new mounting point for the heater core line (rivnut)
- Mounted the FPR (also rivnut, thinking of using light thread lock on this and i really dont want it coming undone)
- played round with surge tank positioning for at least a hour, think i have a location im happy with
- Deleted double throttle body and Accelerated Warmup System. Im going to get the hole left from the DTB welded up, to remove the plates i drilled out the screws.
- Put a little 2 stroke down the intake runners and turned the engine over by hand a few times, now that the OMP is gone i figured i should help out first start up, even though i do already premix.
My current "todo" list before first startup looks like this:
- Mount new power steering cooling line and plumb in
- Final mounting of intercooler + plumbing
- Final mounting of radiator + plumbing
- Final mounting of AC
- Get AC line fabricated with the right end fittings
- Bolt down water pump + thermostat (awaiting new bolts and nuts, studs are already new)
- Install waterpump pully
- Install belts and tension up
- Terminate gauges to DTM pugs and connect to fuse box
- Terminate gauge / fuse box loom to Link ECU (already added a 8 pin DTM to the Link)
- Run gauge sensor wires to sensors, Oil Pressure, Coolant Temp, Boost, O2
- Re-terminate injector plugs
- Re-terminate map sensor
- Re-terminate IAT + weld in new bung
- Wire in extra / new sensors (Oil Temp, Fuel Pressure
- Re-connect the rest of the loom
- Install ECU
- Run remaining engine bay fuel lines
- Re-install UIM + TB + Elbow, TB Cable etc
- Fab pipe from turbo outlet to IC
- Connect recirculation valve to intake
- Cap off un-used nipples
- Add weather pack connections to front bar lights (right now they are all bullet connectors)
- Remount front bar
- Reinstall headlights
- Mount surge tank + 044 + filter
- Mount relays and finish wiring pump fuses + power
- Run new lines from tank to filter to surge etc
- Plug holes from deleting aerial and rear screen wiper
- Install downpipe + 02 sensor
- Mount new battery
- Add Engine oil
- Add Coolant
- Power up
- Unlock ECU
- Load base map
- Set up injector dead times etc
- Setup sensor ranges
- Prime fuel system, look for leaks
- Check fuel pressure
- Check TPS voltages
- Pray
- Startup
This weekend i didnt get much done:
- Added a new mounting point for the heater core line (rivnut)
- Mounted the FPR (also rivnut, thinking of using light thread lock on this and i really dont want it coming undone)
- played round with surge tank positioning for at least a hour, think i have a location im happy with
- Deleted double throttle body and Accelerated Warmup System. Im going to get the hole left from the DTB welded up, to remove the plates i drilled out the screws.
- Put a little 2 stroke down the intake runners and turned the engine over by hand a few times, now that the OMP is gone i figured i should help out first start up, even though i do already premix.
My current "todo" list before first startup looks like this:
- Mount new power steering cooling line and plumb in
- Final mounting of intercooler + plumbing
- Final mounting of radiator + plumbing
- Final mounting of AC
- Get AC line fabricated with the right end fittings
- Bolt down water pump + thermostat (awaiting new bolts and nuts, studs are already new)
- Install waterpump pully
- Install belts and tension up
- Terminate gauges to DTM pugs and connect to fuse box
- Terminate gauge / fuse box loom to Link ECU (already added a 8 pin DTM to the Link)
- Run gauge sensor wires to sensors, Oil Pressure, Coolant Temp, Boost, O2
- Re-terminate injector plugs
- Re-terminate map sensor
- Re-terminate IAT + weld in new bung
- Wire in extra / new sensors (Oil Temp, Fuel Pressure
- Re-connect the rest of the loom
- Install ECU
- Run remaining engine bay fuel lines
- Re-install UIM + TB + Elbow, TB Cable etc
- Fab pipe from turbo outlet to IC
- Connect recirculation valve to intake
- Cap off un-used nipples
- Add weather pack connections to front bar lights (right now they are all bullet connectors)
- Remount front bar
- Reinstall headlights
- Mount surge tank + 044 + filter
- Mount relays and finish wiring pump fuses + power
- Run new lines from tank to filter to surge etc
- Plug holes from deleting aerial and rear screen wiper
- Install downpipe + 02 sensor
- Mount new battery
- Add Engine oil
- Add Coolant
- Power up
- Unlock ECU
- Load base map
- Set up injector dead times etc
- Setup sensor ranges
- Prime fuel system, look for leaks
- Check fuel pressure
- Check TPS voltages
- Pray
- Startup
01-28-18, 11:37 PM
#60
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
Did a little more work last night, routed the looms for the gauges, terminated them and run the sensor wires. Most of them were lone enough out of the box but it looks like ill need to extend the water temp sensor lead. I ran them through the hole in the passenger fender.
Getting wires down from the centre speaker hole is not super easy, i tried a coat hanger but it didnt work (too stiff) in the end i wrapped bundles of 8 wires at a time in blue painters tape. It was just stiff enough to feed through and not so stiff that it would not be workable.
Only sensor lead left to run is the O2.
All terminated to DTMs, overkill i guess.
Run through the fender ports
The gauges and locations. The gauges i decided to run are Oil Pressure, Coolant Temp, Wideband, Boost. I am running all of the 0-5V lines from the gauges to the Link ecu ANV inputs
Getting wires down from the centre speaker hole is not super easy, i tried a coat hanger but it didnt work (too stiff) in the end i wrapped bundles of 8 wires at a time in blue painters tape. It was just stiff enough to feed through and not so stiff that it would not be workable.
Only sensor lead left to run is the O2.
All terminated to DTMs, overkill i guess.
Run through the fender ports
The gauges and locations. The gauges i decided to run are Oil Pressure, Coolant Temp, Wideband, Boost. I am running all of the 0-5V lines from the gauges to the Link ecu ANV inputs
01-28-18, 11:37 PM
#61
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
Another night and some more work on the FD
- Deleted the following plugs (the link ECU doesnt terminate any of these). Sealed each wire with Raychem ATUM. Bundles of wires i also seal together with a bigger piece of ATUM to keep them neat. Probably overkill.
Air Pump Control Signal
Double Throttle Control Signal
2nd Air Relief Signal
Cooling Hot Water Signal
Pressure Regulator Control Signal
Port Air Control Signal
Turbo Control Signal
Charge Relief Signal
Charge Control Signal
Turbo Pully Control Signal
- Terminated the new Injector plugs. My factory primary plugs ones are in a awful state so need to look for replacements.
- Cleaned up the solenoid rack, removed all the vac lines and cut the TB Coolant down. I need to keep the rack to mount the coils (for now)
Yes i need better garage lighting!
Deleted plugs from loom:
Example AUTM, basically i heat it up, then crimp the end with needle nose pliers, the glue liner seals and it looks neat.
Crappy photo but injectors plugs crimped. I like these plugs, they have a neat locking mechanism (Delphi USCar)
- Deleted the following plugs (the link ECU doesnt terminate any of these). Sealed each wire with Raychem ATUM. Bundles of wires i also seal together with a bigger piece of ATUM to keep them neat. Probably overkill.
Air Pump Control Signal
Double Throttle Control Signal
2nd Air Relief Signal
Cooling Hot Water Signal
Pressure Regulator Control Signal
Port Air Control Signal
Turbo Control Signal
Charge Relief Signal
Charge Control Signal
Turbo Pully Control Signal
- Terminated the new Injector plugs. My factory primary plugs ones are in a awful state so need to look for replacements.
- Cleaned up the solenoid rack, removed all the vac lines and cut the TB Coolant down. I need to keep the rack to mount the coils (for now)
Yes i need better garage lighting!
Deleted plugs from loom:
Example AUTM, basically i heat it up, then crimp the end with needle nose pliers, the glue liner seals and it looks neat.
Crappy photo but injectors plugs crimped. I like these plugs, they have a neat locking mechanism (Delphi USCar)
01-28-18, 11:39 PM
#62
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
Time for another Update, I have gotten a bit done. Also booked in my 1st tune for Jan 10! so i have a dead line now
- Mounted the Greddy powersteering line and plumbed in
- Installed fans on Radiator
- Extended fan leads ( using duraseal butt crimps, DR25 and ATUM )
- Mounted the Radiator (final time i hope)
- Finally got my fresh waterpump nuts and bolts from Japan! Installed the water pump, pulleys and alternator, tensioned the belts.
- Installed the driverside solid engine mount, attempted the passenger side, will try again this weekend.
- Wired the Oil Temp sensor and Fuel Pressure sensor into the Link ECU
- Mounted the ECU and connected the ANV breakout cable. Ran the USB to the glovebox
- Ran the O2 sensor cable through the driver side grommet
- Modified the factory battery terminal, bolted the 2awg power cabled to it and run it through to the boot (via the passenger fender grommet)
- Mounted the boost gauge sensor to the firewall (P Clip + rivnut)
- Made a patch cable for the boost solenoid, wired into the factory wastage signal wire
- Installed the ignitor bracket along with the factory hard fuel lines, connected the primary and secondary rails to the hard lines.
- Got a local race fab shop to weld the new IAT bung in and weld up the hole left from the double throttle body delete
- Remounted the intake and IC as a test fit
Currently a bit stumped on how i should mount the surge tank and fuel pump setup to the wheel well. Worried about drilling through and using rivnut, not sure how much clearance there is to the tank. Anyone know?
- Mounted the Greddy powersteering line and plumbed in
- Installed fans on Radiator
- Extended fan leads ( using duraseal butt crimps, DR25 and ATUM )
- Mounted the Radiator (final time i hope)
- Finally got my fresh waterpump nuts and bolts from Japan! Installed the water pump, pulleys and alternator, tensioned the belts.
- Installed the driverside solid engine mount, attempted the passenger side, will try again this weekend.
- Wired the Oil Temp sensor and Fuel Pressure sensor into the Link ECU
- Mounted the ECU and connected the ANV breakout cable. Ran the USB to the glovebox
- Ran the O2 sensor cable through the driver side grommet
- Modified the factory battery terminal, bolted the 2awg power cabled to it and run it through to the boot (via the passenger fender grommet)
- Mounted the boost gauge sensor to the firewall (P Clip + rivnut)
- Made a patch cable for the boost solenoid, wired into the factory wastage signal wire
- Installed the ignitor bracket along with the factory hard fuel lines, connected the primary and secondary rails to the hard lines.
- Got a local race fab shop to weld the new IAT bung in and weld up the hole left from the double throttle body delete
- Remounted the intake and IC as a test fit
Currently a bit stumped on how i should mount the surge tank and fuel pump setup to the wheel well. Worried about drilling through and using rivnut, not sure how much clearance there is to the tank. Anyone know?
01-28-18, 11:40 PM
#63
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
Another quick update:
- Replaced factory injector plugs with fresh ones
- Got a new OEM upper rad pipe and cut to fit the radiator, only coolant lines left to run are to the AST and overflow
- Made a bracket to mount the AST near the brake booster
- Reconnected the full engine loom + all new sensors etc, re-installed UIM, TB, Elbow
- Test fitted the catch can i picked up... doesn't fit
- Made a template for the local fab shop to make a mounting plate for the surge and pump
- Finished up all the ECU terminations and switched power for the gauge fuse box. Put all the cabin interior back together
- Setup the battery relocation mount, just need to buy some longer threaded rod
- Wrapped and test fitted the downpipe, it fouls the steering column (by a couple of MM due to the column clamp bolt)
- Powered up the ECU. It turns on.
- Cut a hole in the wheel well to run the fuel lines through, still need to clean it up and put something around the metal edges to protect the lines.
- Made a grommet using fuel line with small holes and cable ties to affix for the wheel well hole
- Finished up intake pipes and got some beads tag’d on
- Changed all the IC joiners to black 4 ply ones and TBolt clamps
- Finished mounting the battery box and wiring. Added a stinger 150amp marine breaker, nice and easy to kill power
And onto the ECU
- Changed MAP sensor to match the Link 3bar
- Changed IAT sensor to match the fast acting IAT (Delphi AC IAT)
- Disabled all OMP IO
- Disabled ANV4 (NB Oxy)
- Set ANV5 to ECT external + configured to AEMs liner calibration 0v=0*F and 4.92v = 303*F
- Set ANV9 to Oil Pressure + configured to AEMs liner calibration 0.5v=0psi and 4.5v=150psi
- Set ANV10 to Fuel Pressure + configured to 1000kpa TI sensor
- Set ANT3 to off (this is normally fuel temp, do you guys think I should add a aftermarket fuel temp sensor? The factory one is in the secondary rail)
- Ran injector test, all 4 click
- Ran ignition test, all 3 spark
Also I stuffed up with the Oil temp sensor, I have it tapped into a ANV but it should go to a ANVTemp. Looks like I can make a calibration map based on resistance and still use it via ANV…
- Replaced factory injector plugs with fresh ones
- Got a new OEM upper rad pipe and cut to fit the radiator, only coolant lines left to run are to the AST and overflow
- Made a bracket to mount the AST near the brake booster
- Reconnected the full engine loom + all new sensors etc, re-installed UIM, TB, Elbow
- Test fitted the catch can i picked up... doesn't fit
- Made a template for the local fab shop to make a mounting plate for the surge and pump
- Finished up all the ECU terminations and switched power for the gauge fuse box. Put all the cabin interior back together
- Setup the battery relocation mount, just need to buy some longer threaded rod
- Wrapped and test fitted the downpipe, it fouls the steering column (by a couple of MM due to the column clamp bolt)
- Powered up the ECU. It turns on.
- Cut a hole in the wheel well to run the fuel lines through, still need to clean it up and put something around the metal edges to protect the lines.
- Made a grommet using fuel line with small holes and cable ties to affix for the wheel well hole
- Finished up intake pipes and got some beads tag’d on
- Changed all the IC joiners to black 4 ply ones and TBolt clamps
- Finished mounting the battery box and wiring. Added a stinger 150amp marine breaker, nice and easy to kill power
And onto the ECU
- Changed MAP sensor to match the Link 3bar
- Changed IAT sensor to match the fast acting IAT (Delphi AC IAT)
- Disabled all OMP IO
- Disabled ANV4 (NB Oxy)
- Set ANV5 to ECT external + configured to AEMs liner calibration 0v=0*F and 4.92v = 303*F
- Set ANV9 to Oil Pressure + configured to AEMs liner calibration 0.5v=0psi and 4.5v=150psi
- Set ANV10 to Fuel Pressure + configured to 1000kpa TI sensor
- Set ANT3 to off (this is normally fuel temp, do you guys think I should add a aftermarket fuel temp sensor? The factory one is in the secondary rail)
- Ran injector test, all 4 click
- Ran ignition test, all 3 spark
Also I stuffed up with the Oil temp sensor, I have it tapped into a ANV but it should go to a ANVTemp. Looks like I can make a calibration map based on resistance and still use it via ANV…
01-28-18, 11:41 PM
#64
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
Likely my last update before the car is running,
- Fuel system is fully plumbed, relays and fuses wired in (one per pump)
- Put the car on a flatbed, its going to High Performance Rotaries for final checks, midpipe fabrication and tune.
I also did a couple of small mods to the ND MX5
- MCA Street Performance coilovers
- Goodwin Racing Race axel back (straight pipe with a helmholtz resonator)
- 20mm bolt on spacers, i want to keep running the factory BBS wheels for now.
- Fuel system is fully plumbed, relays and fuses wired in (one per pump)
- Put the car on a flatbed, its going to High Performance Rotaries for final checks, midpipe fabrication and tune.
I also did a couple of small mods to the ND MX5
- MCA Street Performance coilovers
- Goodwin Racing Race axel back (straight pipe with a helmholtz resonator)
- 20mm bolt on spacers, i want to keep running the factory BBS wheels for now.
01-30-18, 03:01 AM
#66
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
02-08-18, 03:59 AM
#69
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
Sorry for the delay, we had some delays with parts, there are also heaps of cars coming through right now due to REUnion (a massive rotary only car event in NZ). Im not taking the car to REUnion this year as i want to do a few local shakedowns first so said they should take preference for other cars that are going.
Next week we will be live!
Next plans for the car once its running are:
- Weld in half cage, harness bar
- Fit RT4009HR seats
- MCA Reds
- New rear wing mounts
- Race the **** out of it
Next week we will be live!
Next plans for the car once its running are:
- Weld in half cage, harness bar
- Fit RT4009HR seats
- MCA Reds
- New rear wing mounts
- Race the **** out of it
02-18-18, 02:30 AM
#71
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
Time for a update! I have lots of good news and a little bad. Lets start with the good
The car is running!
Nothing is leaking, it runs cool, very stable idle, compression is over 100 on all faces, surge tank and external pump works.
The EFR spools quickly, 14psi at ~3100 RPM.
The exhaust system sounds great, it is loud as **** (i drove it home next to a mates b16 honda with headers to a straight pipe, he couldnt hear his car). Going to have to do something about this, thinking a big muffler in the midpipe with vbands so i can swap it out at the track.
Now onto the bad, with my setup the internal gate on the 8374 cannot hold 14psi, at ~5500 RPM it starts to spike, by 5700 its up to 20psi. I have been in contact with Turblown and at this stage im a going to look at porting the wastegate. I love the setup Turblown has put together, its very neat so i am really hoping this works.
(blue line is a run stopped at 5500 using the BW solenoid to control the gate, Red line is a test with the gate wired open)
The car is running!
Nothing is leaking, it runs cool, very stable idle, compression is over 100 on all faces, surge tank and external pump works.
The EFR spools quickly, 14psi at ~3100 RPM.
The exhaust system sounds great, it is loud as **** (i drove it home next to a mates b16 honda with headers to a straight pipe, he couldnt hear his car). Going to have to do something about this, thinking a big muffler in the midpipe with vbands so i can swap it out at the track.
Now onto the bad, with my setup the internal gate on the 8374 cannot hold 14psi, at ~5500 RPM it starts to spike, by 5700 its up to 20psi. I have been in contact with Turblown and at this stage im a going to look at porting the wastegate. I love the setup Turblown has put together, its very neat so i am really hoping this works.
(blue line is a run stopped at 5500 using the BW solenoid to control the gate, Red line is a test with the gate wired open)
05-10-18, 05:54 AM
#72
911 MAZ
Thread Starter
Figured its time to update this thread. Back in Feb we ported the internal gate exhaust housing on the turbo as well as removing the divider, boost still creeped.
The next step is to convert the setup to external gates, this is going to need a new mainfold, gates, exhaust housing, down pipe and lines. Will this RE FD ever grace a race track again? its anyones guess.
The next step is to convert the setup to external gates, this is going to need a new mainfold, gates, exhaust housing, down pipe and lines. Will this RE FD ever grace a race track again? its anyones guess.
