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'95 bb Base - Dual Duty Project
First, the car.
Its a 1995, brilliant black Base model with 90,430 miles. This is my third RX7. This is exactly how it looked when I bought it in 2017. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0f7962ebef.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ec11a8a03b.jpg Here is how it looks after a recent wash. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4792c06530.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e43240d7a6.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f21e7c47da.jpg Obviously, I had some body work done and changed the wheels but not much more has been done so far. Truthfully, I thought Id buy this car and get right to work but since Ive had the car for about 2.5 years and am just starting this build thread, thats probably an indicator that I wont be updating the thread with progress updates at any kind of exciting pace. Business and personal life keep me pretty busy but with that said, quarantine has been a good excuse to wrench. The other thing Ill confess is that I wont be doing all of the work on this, I simply dont have everything thats required (tools / knowhow / time). So, while I will attempt to include some detailed bits, not everything will be done in my garage. For example, Im going to lean on Rotary Performance for the engine and turbo work. Modifications I do tackle with often be done with assistance from friends who are smarter or more capable than me, often both. One thing I did build though is a comprehensive project/build tracker spreadsheet. A bit overkill but Im going to chalk that up to occupational hazard. Anyone that has excel is welcome to download it, poke around, and/or use it for their own build(some bits may not work without VB activated; such as the power/fuel calculator). Im changing all of the item prices to $1, though, since thats not really supposed to be the focus here. Although astute viewers will understand a ballpark figure by looking at whats been acquired so far. (https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sj...bbIcybSlTbMUyd) To give a bit more insight into the status of the car when I bought it, the previous owner lost the engine to a coolant seal in 2008, here is all the work that was done when the motor was rebuilt. That was 12 years ago but only about 9k miles have been put on the car since then. Gasket kit Vacuum hose install Injector cleaning Fuel filter relocation Mazda Comp Radiator Install New Coolant hoses Water pump Noltec Motor mounts FPD Clutch kit Flywheel machining Fuel high pressure pump (walbro) New Engine Harness Viton check valves silicon insulation tape (for wire harness) Oil pan brace oil metering lines spark plugs Plug wires O2 sensor Mazda Thermoswitch As for my intentions with the car the north star for this build is track day focus. Im aiming for an FD that I can drive to the track, change pads, have some fun, swap pads again and drive home. For me, the enjoyment of driving an FD is at its peak on the racetrack. Im not into drag racing and I drive like a grandma on the street; but within 3 hours of where I live are three pretty great racetracks. - Eagles Canyon Raceway - Motorsport Ranch, Cresson - Circuit of the Americas Im not looking to compete or set lap records; the car will keep a full interior (and A/C) but once the car is properly setup, Ill attend a handful of track-day events a year. Driving a well setup FD and outpacing some of the more modern Porsches and BMWs is good for the soul. Regarding power goals Ill be targeting approximately 400whp while attempting to destress each system as much as is reasonable. Where possible I dont want components to be running near there operating ceiling. I know this will require an engine rebuild, modern turbo, modern engine management, and modern support modifications. An example of how this thinking influenced a build decision was in regard to the 8374 vs 7670. Ultimately, experience from other members (and specs) seems to indicate that the 8374 will deliver the power Im looking for, in the operating range Im looking for, with less stress than the 7670; lower sustained boost pressure, lower emap. The caveat to the 8374(IWG) seems like it will be keeping creep in check, so Ill be trying the ported internal housing. For those that cant or dont want to look at the spreadsheet, here is a less complete list of modifications that are either sitting on the shelf or are on my (to buy) list. B.S.S. (Brakes Steering & Suspension) Ohlins DFV SBG FPSpec Longstroke Coilovers 13k-f 11k-r Powerflex Bushing Replacement kit #1,2,3,6,18,19 J-Auto Pillow Bushings Mazda Comp Rear Lower inner control arm bushings Mazda Comp Differential Mount Bushings Mazda Motorsports Adjustable front swaybar SBG Billet sway bar mounts AP Racing 8350 fronts w/ SBG rear kit Chassis IMPROVED front strut tower bar with master cylinder brace Rotary Extreme rear strut tower bar Drivetrain HPP 2in1 Differential Brace Banzai Transmission crossmember Exedy twin plate clutch Shifter refresh kit Greddy high capacity differential cover (to buy) OS Giken 1.5 LSD (to buy) Liberty Gears Main Shaft Electrical Rywire single turbo harness Halfspec S2000 antenna adapter SBG IGN-1A ignition system AEM V2 Water Injection kit IRP 140amp Alternator Antigravity ATX30-HD Battery Zprecision Battery Relocation Bracket MSEL Solid State Battery Isolator (to buy) LINK G4+ PnP ECU (to buy) Gauge Art 52mm CAN Gauge (to buy) Ballenger AFR500v2 wideband Engine Turblown BW EFR8374 IWG(ported) Kit Inconel turbine housing heat shield Rotorsports Racing Dual Oil Cooler Kit (parallel) Greddy V-Mount Intercooler Kit Radium Fuel Surge Tank w/1 surge pump, 1 lift pump IRP Baffled oil filler neck FFE fuel step up kit w/ID2000 x2 Exterior LRB Speed V2 Undertray V-Mount Version Interior SBG Trunk Mount AUX Injection Reservoir 2001 FD Gauge Cluster SBG passenger foot rest MazdaSpeed D-Cut Steering Wheel Garage Alpha Ti shift knob Garage Alpha Tie brake handle DRAKES center channel single gauge pod Should make for a fun car if it ever all gets installed lol Some things Im undecided on and questions Im pondering: - Stick with stock ports or port the motor? (leaning towards stock ports) - Seals? the eternal question.. (been leaning towards RX parts but hoping to hear some feedback on i-rotary seals). Rotary Performance wants me to stick with OEM Mazda but seals with the potential to bend vs shatter seems like the lesser evil to me. If the seals shatter, everything is toast, including the turbo. If they bend, at least the turbo is saved. Seems logical to me; any dissenting opinions out there? - How to go about properly setting up an oil overflow system - Do I really need a baffled oil pan - Should I change the motor mounts away from the Noltecs that are on the car - Will the factory power steering hold up - Will I ever find a bolt in rollbar I like Feedback is welcomed. Will provide updates as I have them. |
Thanks for sharing your comprehensive project management spreadsheet, including the visualization and wheel fitment tools! I will be putting it to good use when I start restoring my latest, and possibly final FD.
Great parts going into your 95 BB Base and best wishes on the project progress and completion! Subscribed to your updates on this thread. |
Building a street/track car is a challenge. A jack of all trades is master of none. Recommend you decide (after careful consideration) if you want a a track car that you can drive on the street or a street car you occasionally track.
As for seals, i only got ~20 hours out of the RX Parts seals. |
My base model ‘95 has the old emblem. Was it updated later that year or was it replaced by the previous owner?
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Thanks for the feedback @TomU , jack of all trades and master of none is kind of what I'm going for. I can see how that reads bad on paper but I would argue a cayman gt4 falls within a similar category; can't really argue that it's a real track car and certainly doesn't make a great street car but I imagine it's a hell of a lot of fun at a casual track day event. I also read on up on the feedback you shared in the apex seal thread, seems the RXParts seals aren't holding up to sustained track duty. Fortunately I've got some time before making that decision so I'll hold out for some feedback on the iRotary seals.
Exterior badges on the car were updated. Playing catch up on another update for the FD: Battery Relocation. Nothing many here haven't seen multiple times before, but I'll go ahead and share my experience all the same. I decided to do this in order to make room for the Greddy V-Mount that I'll be installing at some point. I considered a few different options but very much wanted the battery concealed so I ultimately opted for a passenger bin relocation using Zprecision's bracket. Very happy with the outcome. Huge thanks to @Wompa164 for the help on this one. Would still be scratching my head without your guidance. We actually did this back in March, just a few weeks before JP3 released their fuse box bracket. The bracket looks like a great piece and I definitely would have used it if it had been available at the time. Maybe someday I'll pick one up and shorten and re-terminate my power line so I can use it. But for now my setup seems really solid. Here are the parts I used for the relocation project. • Antigravity ATX30-HD Battery 970CCA 24Ah • Zprecision Battery Relocation Bracket - Passenger Storage Bin (excellent piece. highly recommended) • MSEL Solid State Battery Isolator • 1/0 Gauge Straight Magna Lug Connector 1/4 • 1 & 2 Gauge Straight Magna Lug Connector 1/4 • 1/0 Gauge Straight Magna Lug Connector 5/16 • 1 & 2 Gauge Straight Magna Lug Connector 1/2 • 1/0 Gauge Straight Copper Tube Lug 1/4 • 1/0 Motorsport Battery Cable Red • 1/0 Motorsport Battery Cable Black • 2 Awg Motorsport Battery Cable Black • DTM 6 Pin Conn Kit Nickle Solid • DTM 3 Way Kit Nickle Solid • DTM 2 Way Kit Nickle Solid • MS24523-22 OFF-ON SW 1TL1-2 Engine bay before picture (fuse box cover removed) https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3a01c903b2.jpg I decided to runs the cable through the drivers side firewall (LHD) making use of the unused grommet inside the fender. I made a tiny bracket and used a rubber clamp to support the cable at the transition. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2e7f55a30a.jpg I ran the cable through the dash and down the side of the transmission tunnel and into the bin. @Wompa164 took this great action shot complete with apropos caption. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1b1987e674.png Here is the finished shot of the bin with everything installed. The power line runs from the engine bay to the battery isolator then there is another short power cable going to the battery. The battery is grounded to the chassis where the rear seat belt buckle would attach. Another smaller cable runs off of the battery isolator to a switch that toggles power on and off. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...83e169db0e.jpg I installed the switch mentioned above onto the backside of the hatch and gas release cover. This location was ideal because it is effectively impossible to toggle on accident while driving but is immediately available should I need to kill power to the car (fire on track). https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f95680dc4a.jpg Lastly, here is the connection to the fuse box and after engine bay shot https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8b195304d6.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...73ebb0484d.jpg |
Looks like you may benefit from JP3 fuse terminal bracket, so it's not floating. I thought I saw a recommendation to ground relocations back at the original negative terminal harness somewhere, YMMV. Clean install.
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Summers in TX are brutal so with that right around the corner and since I also hadn't done this since buying the car, the next job to get done was a full coolant flush.
I followed a similar process to the one outlined by gracer7-rx7 here and although the process is straight forward it definitely takes some patience because you have to fully flush the system over a series of days. Like gracer7, I used Prestone Flush Cleaner in the first go around, then drove a few hours to allow it to fully do its thing. Then it's distilled water flushes until you get a clear drain and then you can finally fill it up with dealers choice of coolant. There are just as many opinions as there are options for which coolant to run but I landed Zerex blue by valvoline. Lastly, draining via the radiator and block drain plug are important to doing this job thoroughly but after reading (and seeing) how much of a mess draining from the block can make, I decided to make a little 'guide' (slide?) so the draining fluid would more reliably run over the subframe and into the drain pan :icon_tup: Here is a summary of photos and I made sure to capture a sample of the coolant from each drain so I could track the progression; it took 4 in total to get it clear. Drain sample 2 being nastier than drain 1 let me know that Prestone Flush Cleaner really did its job. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7be0424363.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b630ec3146.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...62db1c4e74.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...466c57aeb4.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4fbc12900d.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ab0e83b098.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3057585eaf.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f540c1bd39.png |
Next little project on the list - Shifter Refresh
Pretty much everybody has seen this so I'll keep it short. No drama during this job, the old components were actually still in decent shape; no broken bushings and only the lower boot was torn. Here are all the parts used. M501-17-515 Shifter Lever Crescent Groove Bushing M505-17-482 Shifter Wave Washer M508-17-481A Shifter Change Bushing Blue R503-17-481 Shifter Change Bushing Black FD01-64-490A Shifter Insulator Boot M513-17-480A Shifter Lower Dust Boot 0000-02-9402 93-95 RX7 Competition Aluminum Shifter bushing All the replacement bits laid out. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f6847b4f09.jpg Here is the old boot. Seriously not bad for 90,4xx miles. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...59994857d9.jpg I used a hand pump and a narrow hose to siphon out as much of the old fluid as I could. Moved the hose all around the the various corners and whatnot. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cf553720de.jpg New on the left, old on the right. I have no idea if the color is indicative of age or wear but that bright color definitely has that 'fresh' look to it. I used equal size containers to make sure I could match the amount I took out with the new stuff I put in. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cae3ce0905.jpg New shifter all ready to go! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9c7a853400.jpg Summing it all up this is a super easy job and well worth it. Even though none of the bushings or washers I replaced were broken, it definitely feels much smoother. I would attribute some of that to the new fluid as well. Highly recommend everyone do this who hasn't or has been putting it off. I also changed the transmission fluid but there isn't really anything to show there. |
PSA
When removing the factory intercooler duct, getting the dryer out of the duct is an absolute nightmare. The duct basically holds the dryer hostage while you plead with the hard lines not to break as you gently bend them and lift the dryer out of the way to remove the duct. Terrible design. Thank you for coming to my Ted talk. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7732545ab9.jpg |
The trick I thought I figured out was if you can get the duct loose, and rotate the IC side towards where the battery should be, you can cheat the duct out from under the dryer. You could even cut and glass over that part of the ic duct with the battery vent and dryer.
But, also yes. Big pain in the rump. |
So I'm in the midst of wrapping up my dual oil cooler upgrade. I started the car for the first time a little earlier today to bring it up to temperature and check for leaks. Pretty happy because only one fitting appears to have a small leak and I wanted to ask the community's opinion on it. This is the interior fitting on the driver's side cooler. The threaded sleeves on the fittings appear to have some kind of pin-hole in them and oil appears to be coming up and out through there. Not sure if that description makes sense but here are some pictures. Anybody have experience with these and know whether this is indicative of either the fitting simply being loose or potentially being bad? Is it even possible for oil to backup out of that hole or am I seeing things? It doesn't appear to me that any oil is leaking from the banjo side of the connection so I'm pretty sure it's the 90° fitting on the hose.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a7cb3a57b7.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4379f8223b.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4ac562945d.jpg |
That's the SS lock ring, if that part is leaking then the flare connection between the banjo fitting and the AN fitting is not seal properly. You can try to tighten it a little more, but I would be careful as the banjo fitting looks to be aluminum. I had the same issue with one of the fuel line fitting before, tried tighten it more but it was still leaking. I ended up just swapping it out with an extra one I ordered because I was not comfortable to tighten it any further, and the new fitting seal perfectly fine on first try so it was likely a defected part out of the box.
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Thanks! @ZE Power MX6 that's super helpful.
I've actually got some SECO 7 seals on hand so I'll try using one of those first and see if I can get a better seal at the flare with it. The annoying part is I'll have to drain/waste some of the oil to undo the fitting.. |
Try PTFE sealant on the flare part only, or if you have anti seize you can put some on the flare and the threads. Just be careful not to get either inside the oil line itself obviously.
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Starting to get annoyed haha. After trying to fix that and getting the car running again I realized it's actually leaking at the interior connection on each cooler - so from the line the connects the two coolers. I redid the connection for each fitting and used the SECO 7 flare seals and the seal is improved but the fittings are both still slowly 'seeping' at the edge where the 90° pipe protrudes from the threaded sleeve. All my other connections are good and I don't know what to do at this point. The only thing I can think of is let it cool, try to tighten a little more, that start it again.? If I have to try new fittings do I have to replace the banjo fittings as well? I really don't want to do that so I hope you guys have something up your sleeves..
Here are some photos showing the seepage. PASSENEGER SIDE https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a7f0f75a1f.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...53f90d9b5c.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...42988319f9.jpg DRIVERS SIDE https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...628e6e6116.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f6c56e5bb2.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0f74e5035e.jpg |
Originally Posted by cloud9
(Post 12411392)
Thanks for the feedback @TomU , jack of all trades and master of none is kind of what I'm going for. I can see how that reads bad on paper but I would argue a cayman gt4 falls within a similar category; can't really argue that it's a real track car and certainly doesn't make a great street car but I imagine it's a hell of a lot of fun at a casual track day event. I also read on up on the feedback you shared in the apex seal thread, seems the RXParts seals aren't holding up to sustained track duty. Fortunately I've got some time before making that decision so I'll hold out for some feedback on the iRotary seals.
Exterior badges on the car were updated. Playing catch up on another update for the FD: Battery Relocation. Nothing many here haven't seen multiple times before, but I'll go ahead and share my experience all the same. I decided to do this in order to make room for the Greddy V-Mount that I'll be installing at some point. I considered a few different options but very much wanted the battery concealed so I ultimately opted for a passenger bin relocation using Zprecision's bracket. Very happy with the outcome. Huge thanks to @Wompa164 for the help on this one. Would still be scratching my head without your guidance. We actually did this back in March, just a few weeks before JP3 released their fuse box bracket. The bracket looks like a great piece and I definitely would have used it if it had been available at the time. Maybe someday I'll pick one up and shorten and re-terminate my power line so I can use it. But for now my setup seems really solid. Here are the parts I used for the relocation project. Antigravity ATX30-HD Battery 970CCA 24Ah Zprecision Battery Relocation Bracket - Passenger Storage Bin (excellent piece. highly recommended) MSEL Solid State Battery Isolator 1/0 Gauge Straight Magna Lug Connector 1/4 1 & 2 Gauge Straight Magna Lug Connector 1/4 1/0 Gauge Straight Magna Lug Connector 5/16 1 & 2 Gauge Straight Magna Lug Connector 1/2 1/0 Gauge Straight Copper Tube Lug 1/4 1/0 Motorsport Battery Cable Red 1/0 Motorsport Battery Cable Black 2 Awg Motorsport Battery Cable Black DTM 6 Pin Conn Kit Nickle Solid DTM 3 Way Kit Nickle Solid DTM 2 Way Kit Nickle Solid MS24523-22 OFF-ON SW 1TL1-2 Engine bay before picture (fuse box cover removed) https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3a01c903b2.jpg I decided to runs the cable through the drivers side firewall (LHD) making use of the unused grommet inside the fender. I made a tiny bracket and used a rubber clamp to support the cable at the transition. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2e7f55a30a.jpg I ran the cable through the dash and down the side of the transmission tunnel and into the bin. @Wompa164 took this great action shot complete with apropos caption. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1b1987e674.png Here is the finished shot of the bin with everything installed. The power line runs from the engine bay to the battery isolator then there is another short power cable going to the battery. The battery is grounded to the chassis where the rear seat belt buckle would attach. Another smaller cable runs off of the battery isolator to a switch that toggles power on and off. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...83e169db0e.jpg I installed the switch mentioned above onto the backside of the hatch and gas release cover. This location was ideal because it is effectively impossible to toggle on accident while driving but is immediately available should I need to kill power to the car (fire on track). https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f95680dc4a.jpg Lastly, here is the connection to the fuse box and after engine bay shot https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8b195304d6.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...73ebb0484d.jpg Nice work. We make a bracket to secure the battery fuse block and allows for a jumping point in the engine bay. https://jp3motorsports.com/products/...ated-batteries |
@JP3 Motorsports I literally referenced you and your bracket in the post you quoted.
Originally Posted by cloud9
(Post 12411392)
We actually did this back in March, just a few weeks before JP3 released their fuse box bracket. The bracket looks like a great piece and I definitely would have used it if it had been available at the time. Maybe someday I'll pick one up and shorten and re-terminate my power line so I can use it. But for now my setup seems really solid.
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Brief update and request for input.
I successfully stopped the leaks on all the new cooler lines around the time of my last comment but have hardly driven or touched the car since; maybe 50 miles. I drove the car earlier today, though, and remembered that an annoying squeek developed after I put the car back together after the cooler install. Once the car fully comes up to temperature the squeek softens and is almost imperceptible. I followed the service manual for reinstalling the pulleys and belts and everything looks and feels right so I'm curious if any of you guys have any thoughts? The only thing I've thought to do is uninstall and reinstall the pulleys and belts but I thought I'd ask you all's opinion before I dove into that. Video below. |
Originally Posted by cloud9
(Post 12452445)
Brief update and request for input.
I followed the service manual for reinstalling the pulleys and belts and everything looks and feels right so I'm curious if any of you guys have any thoughts? 1. Belts. Proper tensioning, reuse of old belts. Sounds like you already checked all that. 2. Pulley Bearings. These will make that kind of noise when they start to fail. 3. Water Pump. Longshot but something to check. To really find where its coming from use a stethoscope and carefully place it close to the above locations that aren't moving while the engine idles. |
Insanely overdue post..
Fixed the squeaky pulley ages ago. Turns out the threads on the reverse threaded bolt for adjusting pulley tension, along with the collar bolt threads were stripped to shit and needed replacement. Quick call to ray and I was back in business, squeak free. Although I will add that it’s extremely obnoxious how much stuff has to be removed to be able to get that collar bolt out haha. Next major development to follow was SUSPENSION AND BRAKES Huge thanks to @jmlude93 for all the support during this portion. List of installed parts. Sakebomb FPSpec Ohlins DFV Custom Longstroke Coilovers 13k-f 11k-r Powerflex Suspension Bushing Replacement kit #1,2,3,6,8,9,10,18,19 Mazda Competition Rear Lower Control Arm Inner Bushings J-Auto Pillow Ball Bushing Kit (6 Bushings + 12 dust seals) Front hubs w/bearings Rear bearings Improved Racing Adjustable rear sway bar end links Sakebomb Billet Sway Bar Mounts and Lateral Load Clips Mazda Motorsports Adjustable Front Swaybar kit Mazda Motorsports Sway Torsion Bar 1.25"OD, .188" Thickness Front Upper Ball Joint Boots Front Lower Ball Joint Boots OEM Outer Tie Rod Ends OEM H-Style Front Subframe Camber Bolts OEM H-Style Rear Subframe Camber Bolts OEM H-Style Camber Bolt Plates Camber Bolt Nuts Eccentric Lock Washers for H-Style Camber Bolts Improved Racing Shock Tower Strut Bar with Master Cylinder Brace Rotary Extreme Rear Shock Tower Strut Bar w/harness anchors Big Brake 929 Master Cylinder Upgrade with a oversized 1″ bore Stainless lines AP Racing CP8350 SBG Competition Front brake kit and Rear Brake Kit First step of course was disassembly. OEM suspension and brakes came off without a fuss. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c49cdd601f.jpg It was smooth sailing until it came time to remove the driver’s side rear spindle. That sucker did NOT want to come off. I had to use one of those puller tools with the dog bone shaped key that you wail on with a hammer to rotate. I beat on this sucker off and on for 3 days before it finally pulled off. Agony. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7b876bac11.jpg After that was done with, it was on to removing the oem suspension bushings and rear wheel bearings. Jmlude93 had a press so we took the arms and spindles to his place and got to pressing. This was more or less a drama free endeavor. But it is pretty time consuming, way more than I anticipated and removing the bushings with the steel collar from the rear lower control arms and tie rods is a real bitch. Blows my mind that using a hand saw to remove the lip on either side of the bushing is the factory directed procedure.. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f378800e1b.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0f029efe77.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...17101497de.jpg The next step turned out to be one of the coolest parts of this whole thing – cleaning all the arms. I know vapor honing is the current day hot shit for cleaning parts. But @jmlude93 let me in on the greatest trick that I and all the rest of us have been sleeping on. And that’s ALUMINUM BRIGHTENER. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7a6c409323.jpg Seriously, buy some, use it, be amazed. It’s so effortless and effective that its hilarious. Dilute with water in a big tub, soak parts, scrub by hand with plastic brush, rinse with water. That’s it. This stuff turns what would otherwise be a dreadful and tedious job into a complete joke. Check out these results. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...6853868739.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0c16a959cf.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cdaf470d93.jpg With the arms clean we moved on to pressing in the new bushings. Again, very easy affair. We used the supplied grease from powerflex for those bushings and I used some of this Super Lube for the mazdacomp bushings. J-Auto pillows are nylon lined so no grease for those. I also regreased and put fresh boots on the ball joints. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fc093e8390.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c997238f9f.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f930fddc3a.jpg |
This finally marked the end of refreshing the suspension arms and meant we could begin the reassembly process. Got the arms on with their new camber bolts and lock washers. Such a slick piece, thank you @Spalato
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4bdd862653.jpg Next thing to do was replace the factory front sway bar. I got lucky and secured one of the adjustable kits from Mazda Motorsports. Nice piece. Installed the Sakebomb swaybar mounts at the same time. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cb48c6258e.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...95a5f9a2ba.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e75c355562.jpg And finally, to round out this part of the project, are the coilovers, MC and brakes. I’ll let the pictures do the rest of the talking. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...42e4885576.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0922dcfe44.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0882315521.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b1bb005546.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...96f2337c92.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...433e52386b.jpg Had to round it out with help from the wife and dog; he helped a lot.. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d982508874.jpg Done. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fbbda2a646.jpg |
Very cool! I'm about to start doing my brakes this weekend too. It is looking very good!
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Thanks man, I'm happy with the new brake setup so far. The feel is very good. If you're about to install the same setup, these clips are annoyingly expensive but worth it in my opinion - https://www.sakebombgarage.com/sakeb...queal-springs/
I drove without them originally and could hear the pad knock around a bit with the window down but these hold it solidly in place. |
Where did you get that sway bar?
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I ordered it directly through Mazda Motorsports
Kit part number is 0000-04-7303 Bar part number is 0000-04-7303-03 |
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