That panel looks great. I wasn't to sure about the square holes rather then round but it turned out nicely. An I agree with the others a little contrast helps.

 

love it!

 

Can't wait to see this thing on the road!

 

Need more pictures to decide

 

LEAVE IT CARBON !!!!!!!!!

nice turbo looks sick.

bye the way, you remember that vide on the jet engine I showed you. I was on Singapore airlines coming back from Russia and the boing 777-300R had it on there. I was right behind the wing and these babies were quite as hell. I also noticed that we were able to maintain a pretty step climb getting outta there.

 

Nice turbo, and yeah the panel would look best in CF.

 

It will stay carbon for awhile... maybe indefinitely. We'll see how it looks in the sun when it's all together. One thing about the carbon, is that it's still a form of black, so it does still match quite well.

Thanks for the advice guys.

Elbow should be welded in a few days, and I'm back in business.

 

Love to see the progress that you've made and I'm sorry to hear about the turbo, but I'm pretty damn sure what caused it to fry. You can't run a turbo blanket on a Garrett ball bearing 35R, I've seen it time and time again, both in person and on this forum. The bearings cannot take that extra heat and will ultimately fry from having all that heat locked in from the blanket.

I would say; ceramic coat the hot side but remove the blanket.

 

Hmmmm... I never had any problems with my previous 35R. I had a little scare with shaft play before I knew what was proper on a BB. But it was solid til the day I sold it.

Can anyone else chime in on this?

Thanks buddy!

 

I have been running a heat blanket for over 4000 miles and a track day. No problems so far. Make sure you have a properly setup thermal siphon.

 

i have read some forum posts by people who SEEM to know what they're talking about (and one supposed garrett engineer) who said they do not recommend running a turbine blanket on rotary cars. they say the oil/water turbos can handle a little more heat, but rotaries are pushing the limits of the heat range of the turbo even before putting a blanket on them.

that being said, i had a blanket on my old school oil-only T4 on my turbo2 for about 2 years and never had an issue, and it kept my engine bay WAYYY cooler, but i only did a few autocrosses and a lot of DD'ing --never any track days. i have been concerned though after reading these posts about the heat ranges of the turbos, so i havent put a blanket on my 6262.

i personally plan on running a simple stainless shield around the turbine housing like TheAsset did on his FD... shields a lot of the direct radiant heat, but doesn't lock it in like the blanket does...

 

I looked at this for awhile as well...

Garrett Turbine Housing Heatshield, Stainless : atpturbo.com

 

That's exactly what I need. lol

 

thanks for the link. i JUST bought one of those, like just now

 

This is definitely a big part in the equation. I saw an FC smoke a brand new BB GT turbo at the track while using a turbo blanket once. It did however have improperly plumbed coolant lines. It was running high boost for 10+ minutes continuously which is on the more extreme side of things too..

 

<3

 

thermal siphon???

what if we're running oil-only?

 

^ then water can't run through the turbo....which excludes oil cooled "only" turbos from benefitting from the cooling effects of thermal syphoning.

 

i got ya manny, i was just kinda implying "we don't need to thermal siphon!"

anyway. oil-only for the win!

 

Since the subject about properly set up water lines came up, which way do you have yours to promote proper thermal siphoning? I have read a lot of garrets notes on indexing the turbo up to 20 degrees (making the hot side higher then the cold) to promote this after shutdown. They also say not to index more then 15 degrees as to prevent oil from backing up into the center housing. It was my understanding that after shutdown, when the water pump is no longer circulating coolant ( pushing it from the top of the radiator to the bottom) that the flow reverses. The hot coolant, now rising threw from the bottom to the top. Wouldn't this affect which way you wanted to index the turbo charger? Assuming you are using the factory water inlets and outlets. I only ask because I'm interested not trying to clog up XLR8's thread.

 

Dyno Day!...Thrills and Chills...

Well folks, the results are in, and the setup performed very well. We saw a bit of extra flow from the addition of the billet wheel. Our last run was at 24psi, and it LAID IT DOWN! In the process, the rear rotor let go. As the official results of the failure are yet to be discovered, my tuner is pretty confident it is a warped apex seal. As the engine is using OEM Mazda 2 piece seals, it is rare for them to warp. Whatever the real damage is, it will be known when we tear it down. Whether the seal cracked or warped, we will see. I am confident that my turbo didn't take any damage. It will definitely be inspected though.

AFR's were solid and it never ran lean. EGT's were also solid as each rotor was within 10 degrees F of each other.

My plans are obviously to rebuild the engine better than before. It will be studded and running a performance apex seal. I want to really set it up this time around.

As I pushed the envelope of my engine, I knew there were risks. Those risks caught up with me. As more time and money is ahead of me, the only real consolation I have is that I made big power for the first time, and I will be BACK!

 

porting?
how much water?

 

**** load of torque for the rotary. Congrats.

 

I've been watching this thread for quite a while and your build is impressive indeed. I have to ask though, what are you goals with the car? Isn't this the second engine you have popped in as many dyno sessions? It seems to me like you are definitely approaching the upper limits of what's possible with a two rotor to where I'm not sure reliability is achievable. Maybe a three rotor should be in your future considering how aggressive you are chasing big #'s.

Also, is this all on E85?

 

Yes, Pineapple large street port. 750cc water meth preturbo.

Yeah it is. LOVE this setup. Once the engine is reworked, I will be more than happy.

This is the first rotary engine that I have ever had fail. Pretty crazy considering I have owned 9 Rx7's over a 15 year period. I did a swap earlier because the original owner had a JSPEC engine in it. It had great compression but used 3 piece Mazda seals. My goal has always been around 500whp. I knew as I turned up the boost the 3 piece seals would have issues. The problem is, I wasn't patient. I got greedy and jumped on a low mileage Pineapple engine in the ForSale section. I saved a few dollars by buying it and selling my JSPEC. Instead of carrying through with my original plans of having the JSPEC engine built for the power, I took a gamble on a used engine with factory seals.

My goals for the car have always been an impressive street car that looks and performs above the standard. For power, that meant 500whp. Having the car capable of this with the reservation of running low boost most of the time. It made 430whp at 14psi, so that is still enough to put a smile on my face. However, the 540whp would have me grinning from ear to ear!

As mentioned, this is done with 93 pump and 50/50 water meth preturbo.