This project is coming along great. I just had another powder coating binge too :p

quick question fellas:

the twin turbo oil feed (hardline) pipe, as seen here:

Attachment 649996

since I was apparently horrible at labeling stuff, I can't seem to find where the pipe that attaches to it goes...it's not even seen on the oil path diagram (probably because it has nothing to do with oil)

Attachment 649997

any help would be great guys

if i remember right, and I'm pretty sure...it's for the pcv system. The turbo side pipe goes to the primary intake nipple (one of them) and the other pipe connects to the oil filler neck.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachments/...amjaphires-jpg

first diagram that popped up...in japanese but that's not important. You can see the pipe in the top left

doesn't our PCV system go straight from the oil filler neck to the UIM though? if this pipe is unnecessary i'll get rid of it, but I want to make sure before I do.

I figured it out using Rob Robinette's site.....

if you look on the factory oil neck there are two nipples. One goes to the UIM where the actual PCV valve is located. The other is a breather line that utilizes that pipe you asked about and runs down to one of the 2 nipples located on the primary turbo inlet elbow.

There's lots of threads and debates about the proper setup for a pcv/catch can/breather system, sift through them and find whats best for you. I personally ran my twins without a pcv valve (and i believe the 95s+ also eliminated it) and so that one nipple on the oil neck I capped and just kept the breather line running to the primary turbo intake nipple.

If I had to guess, this is how the IRP neck should be plumbed unless it's setup for a catch can system which really isn't all that different.

BTW, MAAAAAAAJOR props on this build....just went back and it's some good ish. The pay off of driving at the end will make it all worth it.

so what ever did happen to Rich's FD? I mean before you got it. I know he said he was gonna tell the story, but I never saw it. Doesn't mean he didn't of course.

Thanks for the help buddy. And yea, it's coming along.....just waiting for this weather to set it mind straight so I can a couple consistent productive days.

I just know that it was wrecked...if you want the full story, you'd have to ask him, so i'll respect his privacy.

So I've been working on a couple things lately:

tapped the water filler neck to delete the AST, FC rad cap with nipple on the way from Ray. there will be a plug where the old nipple used to be. I still need to tap another 1/8" NPT for the PLX sensor.

Attachment 649704

finished up the banzai racing FPD delete

Attachment 649705

Finally got around the labeling all the connectors in the wiring harness

Attachment 649706

this turned into a nightmare. one of the heat shield bolts head broke off so I tried to counter sink it out, and the counter sink broke. now I need to find a machine shop to drill press and re-tap it

Attachment 649707

Rotary life

Attachment 649708

Got a bunch of parts today :)

Thanks to Dale for the Viton check valves and Fritz for the steering knuckle boots

Attachment 649603

What's the story on the FPR delete. I havent heard of that one before.

BTW, All of the detail work like powder coating looks awesome! Nice bit of work.

I removed the fuel pulsation dampener as it's prone to leaking and most believe that it's a bit of over engineering from Mazda. I did keep the fuel pressure regulator but removed the solenoid and ran the vacuum hose to the UIM.

Yea I know they are not reliable and have caused their fair share of car-be-que's but I haven't previously heard of them being deleted using a stock rail. Sounds interesting.

all you gotta do is tap the primary rail on the FPD side with a 1/2" NPT tap, clean it out and screw in a hose barb. easiest thing I've ever done.

that broken counter sink.... I bet you could get it out using a steady hand a very fine drill bit... Just use a punch to get a nice little centered little dent. Then use the tiny drill bit to drill it out on your own. It may even bite the counter sink and pull it out.

I tried. but all the bits I threw at it were dulling really quickly and before long they wouldn't even bite in wood, lol. The countersink was made of carbide. I also tried using one of the other countersinks I had but it wouldn't bite either.

Ultimate conclusion: drill press!

Plus, there's other things I need drilled and tapped anyways. Along with my wideband bung.

Before I forget to ask. I'm blocking the stock O2 bung and welding my wideband bung farther downstream.

My question is, where should I weld it? I still don't have the car and I don't want to weld it on and have the wideband O2 hit the chassis somewhere.

Finished up the nipple delete and block on the water filler neck.

Attachment 649393

Blocked the throttle body return nipple on the water pump housing.

Attachment 649394

Got almost done with blocking off the throttle body supple line...

Attachment 649395

Then this happened

Attachment 649396

it was a nightmare because half of the tap was stuck in the block and I was freaking out....and my wife, with her finesse and gentle hands, actually got it out.

Went and got another tap and finished it up

Attachment 649397

This is the project for the next couple days

Attachment 649398


And do not fret my fellow RX7 friends....I will flush the coolant system before I run the car

Also, because I have been mulling over how to *properly* delete the coolant passage from the throttle body itself, I just opted for the easy route and ordered the CNC machine billet throttle body. I honestly just can't stand how the stock throttle body looks and to me it's an eyesore.

When I get back from Korea, I may have to hit you up for some help and advice. This project is coming along great! I cant wait to see it all together again!

Come on down. I'm always in the mood to BS about cars!

I would suggest you look a bit further into that throttle body before you install it. Most agree it is a waste of money unless you just care how it looks.

It's a combination of both look and the slightly better airflow that it offers. I decided it was a decent upgrade since I also tried to disassemble the stock one and kinda messed it up. I could make it still work but I want this car to look clean. I will agree though, it is overpriced.