New Preturbo Water Injection vendor!
 

Hey team, just wanted to spread the word on a company I recently found.

Mechanical Water Injection

I ran into them on Facebook and thought I would post it here in the Auxiliary Section. Though I have yet to see their kit in person, a quick review of their site definitely reveals some quality looking parts. My first note was their utilization of an aluminum tank, which I always liked.

I hopped on the preturbo water injection band wagon about a year ago, and have had nothing but great results.

Cheers

Hi thanks for the kind words. The tank is stainless steel. Here is a picture of one we made for one of our customers, who wanted to mount it on the front. It features a baffle and can also come with a level sensor if required:)

All our kits come with with wiring looms and activation LED which helps set up what boost point you want the kit to come on at.

What is the advantage of pre-turbo as opposed to post-turbo? Does the water absorb energy during compression rather than try and remove it post compression?

When considering a pre turbo mechanical system, you will find that apart from doing the same things as the other methods, it will also extend the compressor map, allowing for more potential power.
The methods employed will also give you the best atomization, allowing for better cylinder distribution but the best benefit comes from how simple the kit is, which makes it one of the most reliable systems on the market. There has been no reports of failure yet!

Can you make smaller tanks?

Also, have you tried integrating the mechanical pre-turbo with a traditional meth kit, for better pre-turbo atomization?

We could make any size needed but we wouldn't recommend anything smaller then 2 litres.
The atomizer is capable of a very fine spray patten allot better then conventional pump driven systems, the manufacture of our atomizer claims droplet sizes of 5 - 10 microns, this is one of the reasons, why people used them when utilizing the pre turbo route. It is also methanol compatible.

I understand what it can do. Just wondering, for those who already have a pump mounted, if it could help things out a bit

Ah i see what you mean now. I haven't triad it, maybe that should go on my list of things to try out:)

Using a pump would also take away from the simplicity of the system. Pressure denotes flow with the atomizer. As such, your car is tuned in coordination with that specific flow. If an additional pump was used, the possibility of it failing comes into play. You are then stepping back to an electronic pump dependant system.

The system is extremely flexible because of its simplicity.

You can also replace the flow solenoid with a MAC valve to be controlled by the ECU. With most newer aftermarket ECU's, auxiliary control maps can be used to base the solenoid duty cycle on RPM, or even map output. In turn, you create a simplistic system with unlimited tuneability.

That's good for some peace of mind I guess, it's not often you hear people saying nice things about spraying liquid onto compressor blades. Any indication of what sort of air charge temperatures should be expected for 15psi?

There are a lot of variables involved but as a guide, you will see between 5 and 10C drop in IAT.
However you will gain much more from the even cylinder distribution due to the better atomization of the water improving its ability to inhibit knock.

This the point, where if desired, you my tune for the water injection and turn the boost up, taking advantage of the improved compressor efficiency that pre turbo route offers

I am spraying 50/50 water meth. My intake temps have easily dropped 15C from previous levels. This is with running an additional 8 lbs of boost. With water only, intake temps will drop somewhat but the real advantage of water is knock suppression and dropping internal combustion temps. Another good advantage to water only is that it is not a fuel. Tuning and afr's remain the same. However, the greatly reduced intake temps come from the methanol. Alcohol is the king of heat reduction.

After a 23psi dyno pull, my upper intake is cool to the touch. ;)

Wanted to show you guys what we did for one of our customers, who had special requirements.
He was limited with regards to space and required us to build him a tank that would be in two peaces. This is a great idea as it allows much more versatility over where you can mount your tank.

New KIT
 

The Max kit features all the goodies or our other kits plus a 4Litre stainless tank, complete wiring harness, activation indicator, Master switch/relay and low level warning indicator for extra comfort.

Looks sharp!!

tried with a pump yet?

Looks like rice racing's website. "Pete"

No mate, Pete offers my customers tuning advice at a premium.

This kit looks really good, but Im still confused as to which setup to go for though (pre turbo/post intercooler/or both)?:scratch:

If i was to go pre turbo, which would be the better option out of 100water or 50water50meth?

last question, say that i went pre turbo, 50w/50m. Would i make any extra power just by fitting this kit? or would I need a tune or to raise boost pressure?

my setup is JDM fd3s, bridgeported, 1680cc secondary injectors, single turbo(gt35), 60mm external wastegate, front mount, and apexi power FC.

I'm partial to preturbo mechanical injection myself. I have a pretty long thread showing my kit and the advantages I've seen running water.

I personally run straight water but several of the guys I've built kits for run 50/50 with good results. 50/50 will give you reduced air temps which will give you more power.

Water alone won't give you more power without either leaning out the mixture, running more boost or advancing the timing. Straight water gives better knock suppression, so if you're running on the edge a bit more water is beneficial. I run upwards of 26 psi on water alone, some guys run over 30. That should give you a idea of the advantages of running aux injection. Best thing is to experiment with different mixtures and see what your setup likes best.

^^^^ Like he side, also check us out on face book for more info:)

How close to the turbo does the tank need to be mounted? I'm guessing that you can't have a trunk mounted tank anymore? I'm used to a 5 gallon tank in the trunk, its lasts a long time lol


I'm very interested in the mechanical part of the system, but I'm not sold on the pre-turbo part yet, not because of performance, but because of the turbo's blade wear. Anytime water or any substance is introduced to the blades your going to eventually have wear. I put in an email to an expert on recent turbocharger development and see what he says about current blade technology.

Subscribed for sure!

You can have the tank trunk mounted, there will be no problem. compressor wear is a possibility but it can be minimized by following the instructions in the kit. no one who runs a MWI kit has come back yet:)

Interesting, so I would need to source a 5 gallon pressure tank or can you guys make one lol? I think I could actually make one with my welder...be a cool little and different project. I'm currently running the AEM HD system now. If I go this route I will hit you guys up.

2 questions for either of you with the mechanical kits:

1. Can you incorporate a failsafe to open a wastegate or bypass valve in case there is a WI system failure?
2. Is there a provision to mount the nozzle to the compressor inlet housing?