Coolingmist Smart Injection
#1
Coolingmist Smart Injection
I am installing the Coolingmist Smart Injection kit in my FD. I have a stock intake elbow and was curious if it would work out well to drill and tap the plastic?
I will be running the pump through the ground switch on the controller and have parameters set to trigger it from the Map and Tps sensors. Curious if anyone had ideas as to what would be a good starting point on these sensors to trigger the system to come online? Im running the stock twins with a streetported motor. Thanks
I will be running the pump through the ground switch on the controller and have parameters set to trigger it from the Map and Tps sensors. Curious if anyone had ideas as to what would be a good starting point on these sensors to trigger the system to come online? Im running the stock twins with a streetported motor. Thanks
#2
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
unlike alcohol, water works it's magic almost completely in the combustion chamber so tapping the stock elbow would work fine.
as to when it should trigger.... what size nozzle(s)?
howard
as to when it should trigger.... what size nozzle(s)?
howard
#5
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
normally nozzles are stamped w "M" and a number relate disclose gallons per hour.
for example i ran two M10 nozzles w my Alkycontrol setup....
M10 =s 10 X one GPH or 10 GPH.
a GPH =s 63 CC/Minute... so each of my nozzles produced 630 CC/Minute or 1260 total.
i doubt you have an M1 and an M2 on the above scale as it would only be 63 and 126 CC.
go to this link
http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=1005
and ask them in their online chat window or give them a call.
you want something in the 400 CC area if you are runninjg water.
good luck and let us know how you are progressing,
howard
for example i ran two M10 nozzles w my Alkycontrol setup....
M10 =s 10 X one GPH or 10 GPH.
a GPH =s 63 CC/Minute... so each of my nozzles produced 630 CC/Minute or 1260 total.
i doubt you have an M1 and an M2 on the above scale as it would only be 63 and 126 CC.
go to this link
http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=1005
and ask them in their online chat window or give them a call.
you want something in the 400 CC area if you are runninjg water.
good luck and let us know how you are progressing,
howard
#6
Finally got the car running again and now time to get this water running. From the coolingmist PDF file it says: "The larger nozzles are 12.2 GPH each, the smaller nozzles are 6.2 GPH". I am running a single 6.2gph nozzle threaded into the stock elbow. And here is a beautiful wiring diagram I drew.
Some links for the install:
http://www.coolingmist.com/instructi...StandardTM.pdf
http://www.coolingmist.com/instructi...ntechguide.pdf
Some links for the install:
http://www.coolingmist.com/instructi...StandardTM.pdf
http://www.coolingmist.com/instructi...ntechguide.pdf
#7
Scratch the last wiring diagram I posted. Here is a new one. Forgot that splice off to run a separate fuse for the pump. I just tested the injection and its running awesome.
I have the software setup so there are 2 Conditions to be met for the relay to ground and send power to the pump.
Condition 1 is the TPS Signal. I used terminal 3F g/r wire.
Condition 2 is the MAP Signal. I used terminal 1o g/y wire.
I could not get the pump to come on for a few attempts while trying with the engine off and pressing the gas pedal. It was because I had Map as condition 1 with the "And" selected for condition 2. So for it to bother reading my tps signal it had to have had the correct map signal first. So hopefully you guys wont get frustrated like me.
With that said can anybody help me select the proper Map signal to trigger the pump on? 1.25v would be the map sensor at idle with 19.7 in of vacuum, while 4.65v would be the sensor at 29in of pressure. Any thoughts? Thanks for your help!
I have the software setup so there are 2 Conditions to be met for the relay to ground and send power to the pump.
Condition 1 is the TPS Signal. I used terminal 3F g/r wire.
Condition 2 is the MAP Signal. I used terminal 1o g/y wire.
I could not get the pump to come on for a few attempts while trying with the engine off and pressing the gas pedal. It was because I had Map as condition 1 with the "And" selected for condition 2. So for it to bother reading my tps signal it had to have had the correct map signal first. So hopefully you guys wont get frustrated like me.
With that said can anybody help me select the proper Map signal to trigger the pump on? 1.25v would be the map sensor at idle with 19.7 in of vacuum, while 4.65v would be the sensor at 29in of pressure. Any thoughts? Thanks for your help!
Trending Topics
#8
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
there are a number of ways to come up w the number... an easy one would be to find a boost/V chart.
i would hook up my air compressor to my adj pressure regulator, set a watch on MAP voltage and twirl the dial to, pick a number, 4 psi boost? then just look at the V output number from the MAP sensor and input it to start the pump.
i have found my adj pressure regulator set up for air to be an extremely useful tool.
LMK if you can do this, otherwise we will find a MAP chart.
howard
i would hook up my air compressor to my adj pressure regulator, set a watch on MAP voltage and twirl the dial to, pick a number, 4 psi boost? then just look at the V output number from the MAP sensor and input it to start the pump.
i have found my adj pressure regulator set up for air to be an extremely useful tool.
LMK if you can do this, otherwise we will find a MAP chart.
howard
#9
I dont have a separate adjuster for my air, only the one on the tank. I was thinking about using a T for the boost gauge and map sensor and using the voltage when it gets to around .2 bar? Also using a second or two delay along with an "OR" condition and set the tps trigger to around 80-90% throttle. What do you think?
#10
I did the test and .2 bar is about 2.92v on the map sensor. I set that as the trigger along with a "AND" condition for the tps sensor at about 2.4v. If you just set the map sensor by itself it will start spraying as soon as you go Key on Engine off, because that is about where the map sensor sits with the engine off.
For my water to start spraying I have to be at or above .2 bar and on the throttle a little bit. I used a 1 sec delay. My car will be back from tuning at neptune speed on the 27th so I will let everyone know how well it works after that.
For my water to start spraying I have to be at or above .2 bar and on the throttle a little bit. I used a 1 sec delay. My car will be back from tuning at neptune speed on the 27th so I will let everyone know how well it works after that.
#16
I switched the wiring so that the pump is ground side switched. I have no idea why I had it the other way. The relay still buzzes loudly like its cycling on and off really fast right as I'm reaching the triggers. It works awesome though and my intake manifold is freezing cold after hard runs.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
eplusz
General Rotary Tech Support
15
10-07-15 04:04 PM
1005, controller, coolingmist, ems, fd, injection, install, kit, problems, progressive, rx7, rx7club, smart, trigger, wwwcoolingmistcom