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-   -   “Icy or chilled” pre turbo question (https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-injection-173/%93icy-chilled%94-pre-turbo-question-1137117/)

Krem 06-28-19 10:52 PM

“Icy or chilled” pre turbo question
 
Hi,
before i get roasted, i did a google search but nothing real helpful turned up.

so I’d like to know if there would be any benefit of running a chilled or icy water in pre turbo w/i??

would getting below ambient IAT be beneficial to creating more power than injecting tepid water??

im planning my whole conversion into my HB929 with a 13brew, EFR9180, elite 2500 and pump fuel, and I’m hoping for around 500-550rwhp on around 25psi,

while planning my W/I setup using Wannaspeed nozzle pre turbo with no pump, I’m considering factoring in a fine mesh filter around 25mm above the bottom of my tank so that any ice can block the outlet, allowing for much colder water to be injected.

the only con i can think of (and trust me, i totally understand there will be more than this, I’m just not that smart!!) is that cold water tends to be “hard” water which i feel may damage the impeller more than tepid water which seems to be a “softer” water, if that makes sense to others???

thanks for the info, its really appreciated.

krem

BLUE TII 06-28-19 11:05 PM

Hot water may be best, closer to boiling the better. This is becausr it is closrst to evaporation and the energy required for this phase change is what really draws the btus out of the intake air.

The faster the water evaporates, the sooner you can inject more.

I found this out spraying my ic at a hillclimb. Ice water in the morning and left it in the sun and had hot water in the afternoon. Hot ic plus hot water equalled frosty cold ic much sooner than when I was using ice water that took forever to heat up and evaporate. Rate of water evapotation was the real key to coolimg ic quickly.

hadokenny 08-02-19 12:22 PM


Originally Posted by BLUE TII (Post 12356081)
Hot water may be best, closer to boiling the better. This is becausr it is closrst to evaporation and the energy required for this phase change is what really draws the btus out of the intake air.

The faster the water evaporates, the sooner you can inject more.

I found this out spraying my ic at a hillclimb. Ice water in the morning and left it in the sun and had hot water in the afternoon. Hot ic plus hot water equalled frosty cold ic much sooner than when I was using ice water that took forever to heat up and evaporate. Rate of water evapotation was the real key to coolimg ic quickly.


Interesting observation. I'd imagine that if water is too close to boiling point, you would risk water evaporating into steam (gas form) prior to entering combustion chamber thus displacing number of O2 molecules per combustion?


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