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Just checked it on my running file. Timing is good. I'll pull it off and let you look/modify it. As an FYI i have not been able to get her to idle leaner then 13.4afr @ 900rpm. I have had it set for 13.3 for a while now as she seems to like it better..
So I verified the timing, re calibrated the 3bar map today. In the log file you can see she seems to be running ok. Then the idle jumps to 100 then comes back down... Please let me know what you did for changes off the ecu file in this post as maybe one of them may be why she was running like crap and stalling right off the bat.
Your transition time for your MAP prediction is way too short. Up it to something around 200 to 300ms and also try setting your "Maximum transient advance/retard" to roughly -5 degrees and set your gain to something like 5 or so and it should smooth out your transients at lower throttle conditions. The Adaptronic ecu is insanely sensitive to having everything perfect. The stock ecu on a stock engine will idle around 11 AFR so don't get too caught up in whether it's too lean or rich. Personally, I've had excellent luck with around 12.5 AFR and anything leaner wanted to die at stop signs and such.
I know that street ports require a little extra timing for idle but what is the advantage to 15 degree advance with a zero timing split and 9ms dwell? That seems a little excessive.
I would also play with throttle overrun. Having the Power come back on around 1800 helped me a lot in stop and go. The dashpot setting also open the idle valve by a certain value when you let off the gas, this can cause a lean condition and make things really strange.
Last but not least, double check your coolant temp fuel correction table. It's adding 3 percent fuel at 176F and that can throw things off when the car is warm.
Loads of little things can really throw a curveball at the rotary so having everything spot on is important to making it run smoothly. Cheers and good luck with your venture!
Your transition time for your MAP prediction is way too short. Up it to something around 200 to 300ms and also try setting your "Maximum transient advance/retard" to roughly -5 degrees and set your gain to something like 5 or so and it should smooth out your transients at lower throttle conditions. The Adaptronic ecu is insanely sensitive to having everything perfect. The stock ecu on a stock engine will idle around 11 AFR so don't get too caught up in whether it's too lean or rich. Personally, I've had excellent luck with around 12.5 AFR and anything leaner wanted to die at stop signs and such.
I know that street ports require a little extra timing for idle but what is the advantage to 15 degree advance with a zero timing split and 9ms dwell? That seems a little excessive.
I would also play with throttle overrun. Having the Power come back on around 1800 helped me a lot in stop and go. The dashpot setting also open the idle valve by a certain value when you let off the gas, this can cause a lean condition and make things really strange.
Last but not least, double check your coolant temp fuel correction table. It's adding 3 percent fuel at 176F and that can throw things off when the car is warm.
Loads of little things can really throw a curveball at the rotary so having everything spot on is important to making it run smoothly. Cheers and good luck with your venture!
Thanks! i'll look into the map prediction. Another gent was talking the same thing but didn't go into that detail.
I'll richen up the idle a little more then. I didn't build her up to save on gas...
as far as the 3% at 176 i just pulled it out. That was in there from a long time ago. I thought i pulled it out before.
In my running file the dwell isn't like that. below are my split and dwell settings. The dwell came from skeeze's post on the AEM coils for running direct fire i've been running these settings for a long time now.
I always love it when you figure something out that affects everything else, and you have to start from square one again. My latest was finding out my fuel pressure was 70psi at idle, last time I checked, it was normal, with a slight drop off at high RPM, it was the original pump, so I decided to change it with an aftermarket (its in a B2200), never checked since, that was 4 years ago. I guess the stock fuel pressure regulator doesnt flow as much as my fuel pump puts out. Of course, my entire map was out to lunch, started from scratch pretty much.
My idle AFR target is 11.7, I find the idle is the smoothest there, with good throttle response and resistance to stalling. I can get it to idle leaner, but it keeps stalling on throttle return, and always get a lean bog on throttle application no matter what I do with transient settings. But with every success, you feel better, and feels like you have a stronger engine every time.
There were dozens of errors on your original map, so if you tuned around that, then that's why correct values are acting up on you (being that the car is FULLY open loop).
Fuel Pressure was 0psi. Injectors were entirely wrong. Knock Sensor Fluctuated from 0 to value to 0 to value to 0 to value throughout the whole RPM range.
Timing was 0 degrees for a huge chunk of your map. AFR targets were terrible. Timing split was not good.
My suggestion is to go back to your first file you had uploaded and open it up in Eugene. Compare it to what I sent you last and systematically update your map.
There were dozens of errors on your original map, so if you tuned around that, then that's why correct values are acting up on you (being that the car is FULLY open loop).
Fuel Pressure was 0psi. Injectors were entirely wrong. Knock Sensor Fluctuated from 0 to value to 0 to value to 0 to value throughout the whole RPM range.
Timing was 0 degrees for a huge chunk of your map. AFR targets were terrible. Timing split was not good.
My suggestion is to go back to your first file you had uploaded and open it up in Eugene. Compare it to what I sent you last and systematically update your map.
All I was saying is lets do a little bit at a time. But if someone was making changes to your ECU wouldn't you like to know what was being changed and why? Making a **** ton of changes at once isn't always the best route. Trust me I know my settings arn't the best and that's why I came to the forums for some help/guidance. I'm a systems/Network Eng and like to do things a little slower as not to cause other issues. If it does fix that and move on to the next step. Sorry if I pissed you off there is no inflection in reading/typing on a forum like there is actually talking to someone.
@newtgomez and befarrer, I enriched the idle AFR's to 12.5 and wow no stalling as of yet goes right back to idle. I was also able to lower the idle effort down some also.
I went for a drive this morning with the wife so much better. I also changed the transient throttle settings to the clip below. Also seems to be no more random stumble but we'll see.
Still have the random idle effort jumps to 100% thou. This is gonna be hard to rack down i think.
So one thing i have noticed with Eugene that sometimes the check marks in here will just magically check themselves. Honestly pisses me off.
Sorry it took me so long to get in here, its been a crazy week. I'm not going to comment on all the iterations that were seen previously but only the version and log that knotsonice emailed me this morning. From the file that I was sent which I believe contained input from befarrer, newtgomez and RGHTBrainDesign I made the following changes.
Re-applied dead time correction values for ID850 primaries and ID2000 secondaries at 44.1 kPa base fuel (closes built-in pressure calc value for correction to 44 kPa). This effectively changes the respective injector sizes in the tuning tab to 857 primary and 2149 cc/min secondary.- Changed long post crank % from 0 to 4% and changed duration from 20,000 to 8000ms.
Changed transient throttle transition time from 50 to 250ms and increased async gain from 75% to 150% and turned on double async gain. Turned off extra sensitive throttle. Increased PMAP values in 100% TPS by 20. Set Transient Ignition Gain to 1, and max advance/retard to 2. Turned off “always allow pump”.
Lowered coolant enrichment high MAP values to match the low map values. I’ve tried using both a million times and have always found that the rotary engine warms up with the most stability and consistency, whether at idle or light throttle, when the values are the same. I think it may be more prevalent to have a high/low map spread during warmup on an engine with more rotating mass (makes for more stability) that you also just jump in and take off in cold (like my DD V8 truck for example. I also adjusted the values from ~122-150 to continue to drop as for some reason they were going back up there…not sure why that was.
Updated split table. Removed the -10 values at 1000 rpms at -29 and -10 inHg, and instead set to 15. I’ve always found that running a big split like this at idle helps a small port (stock or street) idle smoother with more consistency. On a stock port, the best combo I found was 0 degrees leading and a 20 split, so with a street I’d start at 5 degrees leading and a 15 split and go from there. You really shouldn’t have to be running more timing that that at idle unless you have a huge port, for example my semi motor needs between 20 and 25 degrees with only a 10 split to consistently idle and brap.
Changed the frequency of the idle control valve from 500hz to 250 hz. I forget where it is specified (Mazda manual maybe?) but the FD ISC is actually designed to be run at 244 hz so this is as close as you can get. I used to get weird buzzing noises when driving mine at 500hz, not sure how it affects function.
Changed Hot Rev Limit from 0 to 4000 rpms, changed Hot Temperature from 0 to 216F. Not sure if this being set at 0 and 0 would be affecting function, but should probably have it on anyways.
Changed throttle off lower / higher to 1700/1800 rpms and set delay time to 250 ms. Should make for smoother on/ off throttle and help prevent the car from bucking or dying when coming off throttle at a lower rpm.
Given you said that the fuel map hadn't had too much time in it, I believe its best that you move from the 300 rpm step size map to a 500 step. This will greatly speed up the tuning process and allow you to work a smooth consistent on-target fuel map with alot less effort and then only when the tune is dialed in to the point that you can actually see that you don't have enough resolution in the 500 rpm increment range should you expand to the 300 rpm step. When you do that, it will interpolate the new column values from what you had in the 500 step map and it should be right on target and then you can adjust as need. I tuned my 6266 stock port on a 500 rpm increment map to the point it was so smooth it ran like an OEM car.
I also changed the timing map to a much simpler layout that I recommend when you begin tuning. People will suggest all sorts of crazy timing maps but at the end of the day ideal timing for any engine is specific to that physical engine and the only want to sort it with any measurable data is through using a dyno and balancing hp, torque, and egt. During initial tuning, best practice is to start with a generic (and safe) timing map and then once once the fuel map has been tuned to hit and hold the target AFR consistently should you begin modifying the timing. Idle is at 5 degrees leading and there is a 15 split.
That being said, the log you sent doesn't look awful from an AFR/Target AFR standpoint. There is definitely room to pull it closer to target as it needs fuel pulled in some places and fuel added in others, but overall it seems to be regional and relatively consistent and not erratic, so you are at a great place to start working it forward from.
Assuming the log was taken from the tune file I was sent it was in closed loop but only up to 3 PSI. You should be perfectly fine to run this same tune in open loop, which will get us some hard data on how we need to adjust the vacuum sections of the map. You do have margin between 0 and 12 PSI above 5000 rpms where you can probably start pulling out some fuel in 2-3% increments to start dropping those 1.0+ AFR rich cells leaner towards the 0.0 target.
Sorry it took me so long to get in here, its been a crazy week. I'm not going to comment on all the iterations that were seen previously but only the version and log that knotsonice emailed me this morning. From the file that I was sent which I believe contained input from befarrer, newtgomez and RGHTBrainDesign I made the following changes.
Re-applied dead time correction values for ID850 primaries and ID2000 secondaries at 44.1 kPa base fuel (closes built-in pressure calc value for correction to 44 kPa). This effectively changes the respective injector sizes in the tuning tab to 857 primary and 2149 cc/min secondary.- Changed long post crank % from 0 to 4% and changed duration from 20,000 to 8000ms.
Changed transient throttle transition time from 50 to 250ms and increased async gain from 75% to 150% and turned on double async gain. Turned off extra sensitive throttle. Increased PMAP values in 100% TPS by 20. Set Transient Ignition Gain to 1, and max advance/retard to 2. Turned off “always allow pump”.
Lowered coolant enrichment high MAP values to match the low map values. I’ve tried using both a million times and have always found that the rotary engine warms up with the most stability and consistency, whether at idle or light throttle, when the values are the same. I think it may be more prevalent to have a high/low map spread during warmup on an engine with more rotating mass (makes for more stability) that you also just jump in and take off in cold (like my DD V8 truck for example. I also adjusted the values from ~122-150 to continue to drop as for some reason they were going back up there…not sure why that was.
Updated split table. Removed the -10 values at 1000 rpms at -29 and -10 inHg, and instead set to 15. I’ve always found that running a big split like this at idle helps a small port (stock or street) idle smoother with more consistency. On a stock port, the best combo I found was 0 degrees leading and a 20 split, so with a street I’d start at 5 degrees leading and a 15 split and go from there. You really shouldn’t have to be running more timing that that at idle unless you have a huge port, for example my semi motor needs between 20 and 25 degrees with only a 10 split to consistently idle and brap.
Changed the frequency of the idle control valve from 500hz to 250 hz. I forget where it is specified (Mazda manual maybe?) but the FD ISC is actually designed to be run at 244 hz so this is as close as you can get. I used to get weird buzzing noises when driving mine at 500hz, not sure how it affects function.
Changed Hot Rev Limit from 0 to 4000 rpms, changed Hot Temperature from 0 to 216F. Not sure if this being set at 0 and 0 would be affecting function, but should probably have it on anyways.
Changed throttle off lower / higher to 1700/1800 rpms and set delay time to 250 ms. Should make for smoother on/ off throttle and help prevent the car from bucking or dying when coming off throttle at a lower rpm.
Given you said that the fuel map hadn't had too much time in it, I believe its best that you move from the 300 rpm step size map to a 500 step. This will greatly speed up the tuning process and allow you to work a smooth consistent on-target fuel map with alot less effort and then only when the tune is dialed in to the point that you can actually see that you don't have enough resolution in the 500 rpm increment range should you expand to the 300 rpm step. When you do that, it will interpolate the new column values from what you had in the 500 step map and it should be right on target and then you can adjust as need. I tuned my 6266 stock port on a 500 rpm increment map to the point it was so smooth it ran like an OEM car.
I also changed the timing map to a much simpler layout that I recommend when you begin tuning. People will suggest all sorts of crazy timing maps but at the end of the day ideal timing for any engine is specific to that physical engine and the only want to sort it with any measurable data is through using a dyno and balancing hp, torque, and egt. During initial tuning, best practice is to start with a generic (and safe) timing map and then once once the fuel map has been tuned to hit and hold the target AFR consistently should you begin modifying the timing. Idle is at 5 degrees leading and there is a 15 split.
That being said, the log you sent doesn't look awful from an AFR/Target AFR standpoint. There is definitely room to pull it closer to target as it needs fuel pulled in some places and fuel added in others, but overall it seems to be regional and relatively consistent and not erratic, so you are at a great place to start working it forward from.
Assuming the log was taken from the tune file I was sent it was in closed loop but only up to 3 PSI. You should be perfectly fine to run this same tune in open loop, which will get us some hard data on how we need to adjust the vacuum sections of the map. You do have margin between 0 and 12 PSI above 5000 rpms where you can probably start pulling out some fuel in 2-3% increments to start dropping those 1.0+ AFR rich cells leaner towards the 0.0 target.
Skeese
Thanks Seth! Like said in my post above.. Eugene is doing some funky things i think.... I'll load up the file and let you know.
Hey Newt whats up? Glad to see you're still on here as well, all good info here for sure. You covered alot of what I changed before I read back through all of this.
Originally Posted by newtgomez
Your transition time for your MAP prediction is way too short. Up it to something around 200 to 300ms and also try setting your "Maximum transient advance/retard" to roughly -5 degrees and set your gain to something like 5 or so and it should smooth out your transients at lower throttle conditions. The Adaptronic ecu is insanely sensitive to having everything perfect. The stock ecu on a stock engine will idle around 11 AFR so don't get too caught up in whether it's too lean or rich. Personally, I've had excellent luck with around 12.5 AFR and anything leaner wanted to die at stop signs and such.
I know that street ports require a little extra timing for idle but what is the advantage to 15 degree advance with a zero timing split and 9ms dwell? That seems a little excessive.
I agree that you don't need that much idle timing on a small port motor and I find that with stock/street port engines a healthy split does aid a smooth idle. I'm not even going to comment on the 9ms of dwell...
Originally Posted by newtgomez
I would also play with throttle overrun. Having the Power come back on around 1800 helped me a lot in stop and go. The dashpot setting also open the idle valve by a certain value when you let off the gas, this can cause a lean condition and make things really strange.
I change power to only go off above 1800 and for it to come back on at 1700 in the map I made. I ended up getting it to run fine on my stock port a good bit lower than that but only after having dead nuts pinned the whole map to the target and worked out all the closed loop idle details to catch and hold it perfectly down low. Didn't know that about the dashpot setting, I've always just turned it off.
Originally Posted by newtgomez
Last but not least, double check your coolant temp fuel correction table. It's adding 3 percent fuel at 176F and that can throw things off when the car is warm.
Loads of little things can really throw a curveball at the rotary so having everything spot on is important to making it run smoothly. Cheers and good luck with your venture!
I updated both the coolant temp tables to be identical and be done trimming by I think 150-160F if I remember right.
She fired right up. So I went to go fill up the tank. Here's the log after she warmed up and I was otw home. Quick drive so a short file. After I got home i got that idle at 100% again. you'll see towards the end.
Thanks Seth! Like said in my post above.. Eugene is doing some funky things i think.... I'll load up the file and let you know.
Carl
I did all of this in Wari and plan to stick with it as I don't trust the other stuff. I tuned my old setup on a PnP with a select to run absolutely perfectly, so whatever all comes with the new software isn't necessary.
Either way, let me know! You planning to install the w/m kit anytime soon? Personally, I think you should start with w/m or E85 once you pass about the 15 PSI level on pump gas.
Yup I bought the euro style tank that was up on the forum. Just waiting. I have a AEM kit minus the controller. Fun part will be figuring out how to get it working with the ecu or just buy the controller and run that way. Won't go E85. no stations close enough 8(.
Fun part is before the cat went she was rock solid at 14 psi. Then I threw the RB res mid-pipe... that changed everything..
I may yet buy one of those tanks down the road, I was going to but got carried away with a ton of random other stuff. While I'm a big fan of using the ECU to control anything you can, but by the same hand I'm not a big fan of the adaptronic doing it as the way you have to go about it in Wari is sketchy and I don't trust the other. Plus, the w/m flow doesn't have to directly be tied to fuel like some would lead you to believe. As it is really just being used as an octane booster and detonation suppressant, so long as enough of it is present you'll be fine. I don't see any real measurable benefit to over complicating it and trying to tie it to an exact amount respective of fuel flow.
Honestly, you could either get the progressive controller or wire the pump to a pressure switch like a hobbs so it just came on at 10 PSI and then just let it eat.
So I got a reply from Adaptronic about the random idle jump...
"How often are you having this idle spiking up? It seems to me that the ECU is somehow resetting, because it goes back to setting the idle effort full open (i.e. 100%) then doing the post crank idle effort decay like what you see here. In fact, the trim% is also spiking up and doing the post crank fuel trim decay. If the ECU is indeed resetting, then the most likely cause will be electrical interference, and the usual suspect will be the ignition system. Are you coils in top shape? Are you using resistor type spark plugs and ignition leads?"
As far as i know the coils and plugs are fine. Should I chase down the grounds in the stock harness and verify they are good?
So I got a reply from Adaptronic about the random idle jump...
"How often are you having this idle spiking up? It seems to me that the ECU is somehow resetting, because it goes back to setting the idle effort full open (i.e. 100%) then doing the post crank idle effort decay like what you see here. In fact, the trim% is also spiking up and doing the post crank fuel trim decay. If the ECU is indeed resetting, then the most likely cause will be electrical interference, and the usual suspect will be the ignition system. Are you coils in top shape? Are you using resistor type spark plugs and ignition leads?"
As far as i know the coils and plugs are fine. Should I chase down the grounds in the stock harness and verify they are good?
Carl
I dont know much, but that sounds like faulty hardware and a load of crap to me.
I'd double check your grounds and power source and if that doesnt fix it cut your losses and toss the piece of **** ecu in the trash before it causes you a much more serious problem. To me that just made it abundantly clear that if for 'some' reason your engine randomly grenades that its going to be blamed on your harnness, wiring, coils, plugs or grandmothers zodiac sign. It would just super suck to find yourself left holding a busted ecu, blown motor, turbo trashed by seals and have nothing to show for it but an adaptronic hoodie and pair of sweatpants...
but alas, we endeavor to persevere. Let us know if the grounds fix it and how it goes with that new map if so.
I dont know much, but that sounds like faulty hardware and a load of crap to me.
I'd double check your grounds and power source and if that doesnt fix it cut your losses and toss the piece of **** ecu in the trash before it causes you a much more serious problem. To me that just made it abundantly clear that if for 'some' reason your engine randomly grenades that its going to be blamed on your harnness, wiring, coils, plugs or grandmothers zodiac sign. It would just super suck to find yourself left holding a busted ecu, blown motor, turbo trashed by seals and have nothing to show for it but an adaptronic hoodie and pair of sweatpants...
but alas, we endeavor to persevere. Let us know if the grounds fix it and how it goes with that new map if so.
Skeese
So far the new map is fine. Real close to having fuel dialed in. I had 115,000 miles on the org rebuild when it was all stock. It's funny because when i did everything to the car after i lost compression it was all new. Rebuilt engine, 99 twins, Brand new OEM harness, aem coils, fuel rail and injectors, ecu, trigger wheel, the list goes on. Then i went single. This issue has been there for a long time now and i really didn't think much of it. I wish i had another ecu to try. I wish i could just dop the $ right now but i can't. stuck with it.
I know you have plenty of help already but I just wanted to make a suggestion to help with idle if you haven't already done so which begins with the basics. I'd recommend a TPS sensor check to make sure its set and working properly producing the appropriate amount of voltage at 0 and 100%. I believe there is a thread explaining how to check and correct this if your tps is off. Verify timing with a timing light as suggested above. Then turn ignition on and setup TPS calibration on the select ecu under calibration tab,set idle control to open loop and set to 0, under triggering check the lock ignition box and check -5/-20 for the 13b. Then mechanically set idle to your target by adjusting the idle screws on the TB. In my case I chose 800rpm. I do have a street port with some brapping. Once you have your car mechanically set to your idle you can turn on your idle control and begin to increase the value till you see your idle begin to increase. Choose a value just below that that allows you to maintain your target idle (800rpm for me and approximately 54 idle control minimum). This will be your minimum idle control. You can set max to 100 or whatever you think you max may be under load or other various conditions. I have all emissions removed just as you do and noticed the engine prefers a rich idle mixture between 11.5-12.5. The leaner afr requires more timing but produces a smoother idle (no brappage) however when load is applied the engine may stumble unless the RPM is high enough to compensate and if you add fuel to the lower fuel cells to cope with the stumbling then you end up with idle hunt because of the difference between the fuel cells. If you go with a richer afr target, 11-12 I chose 12 as my target) you get the brappage because of the engine porting but a strong idle that can withstand load particularly load of the a/c system which I still have. Going with the richer afr, the fuel cells within the idle range will be similar so you end up with no idle hunt but have the rotary brap from your street port. The amount of brappage varies on the port. Changing the fuel cells in the idle range will affect your idle rpm, usually leaner increases RPM and richer decreases RPM, but once you have them at your target you should be set. Be sure you are set to open loop fuel corrections when tuning the idle fuel cells to the target afr. After dialing in the idle range in the fuel map I would repeat the process above except for the timing light and tps check and calibration. This should leave you with a solid idle. You can then setup open loop idle parameters for various loads like power steering, clutch switch, electric fans, a/c system, lights on, etc. This is what I did to get a solid idle that would not die from me turning on the lights, turning on the a/c, electric fans coming on or anything. You can adjust idle to compensate for anything defined in your digital inputs for open loop idle control. The value you put under extra effort in the open loop idle control for each load will add to the minimum overall idle control to compensate for the load. Try to put a value that best maintains your target idle. For example if your electric fans drop your idle to 650 rpm then add a value that brings it back to the target of 800 (this could be anything between 1-4). After you have this all filled up you can setup closed loop idle. In summary your mechanically and electronically setting up idle, then tuning the fuel map within the idle range for a target afr and then going back to readjust idle to target if the adjustments to the fuel map to reach target afr took you off target rpm.
I know you have plenty of help already but I just wanted to make a suggestion to help with idle if you haven't already done so which begins with the basics. I'd recommend a TPS sensor check to make sure its set and working properly producing the appropriate amount of voltage at 0 and 100%. I believe there is a thread explaining how to check and correct this if your tps is off. Verify timing with a timing light as suggested above. Then turn ignition on and setup TPS calibration on the select ecu under calibration tab,set idle control to open loop and set to 0, under triggering check the lock ignition box and check -5/-20 for the 13b. Then mechanically set idle to your target by adjusting the idle screws on the TB. In my case I chose 800rpm. I do have a street port with some brapping. Once you have your car mechanically set to your idle you can turn on your idle control and begin to increase the value till you see your idle begin to increase. Choose a value just below that that allows you to maintain your target idle (800rpm for me and approximately 54 idle control minimum). This will be your minimum idle control. You can set max to 100 or whatever you think you max may be under load or other various conditions. I have all emissions removed just as you do and noticed the engine prefers a rich idle mixture between 11.5-12.5. The leaner afr requires more timing but produces a smoother idle (no brappage) however when load is applied the engine may stumble unless the RPM is high enough to compensate and if you add fuel to the lower fuel cells to cope with the stumbling then you end up with idle hunt because of the difference between the fuel cells. If you go with a richer afr target, 11-12 I chose 12 as my target) you get the brappage because of the engine porting but a strong idle that can withstand load particularly load of the a/c system which I still have. Going with the richer afr, the fuel cells within the idle range will be similar so you end up with no idle hunt but have the rotary brap from your street port. The amount of brappage varies on the port. Changing the fuel cells in the idle range will affect your idle rpm, usually leaner increases RPM and richer decreases RPM, but once you have them at your target you should be set. Be sure you are set to open loop fuel corrections when tuning the idle fuel cells to the target afr. After dialing in the idle range in the fuel map I would repeat the process above except for the timing light and tps check and calibration. This should leave you with a solid idle. You can then setup open loop idle parameters for various loads like power steering, clutch switch, electric fans, a/c system, lights on, etc. This is what I did to get a solid idle that would not die from me turning on the lights, turning on the a/c, electric fans coming on or anything. You can adjust idle to compensate for anything defined in your digital inputs for open loop idle control. The value you put under extra effort in the open loop idle control for each load will add to the minimum overall idle control to compensate for the load. Try to put a value that best maintains your target idle. For example if your electric fans drop your idle to 650 rpm then add a value that brings it back to the target of 800 (this could be anything between 1-4). After you have this all filled up you can setup closed loop idle. In summary your mechanically and electronically setting up idle, then tuning the fuel map within the idle range for a target afr and then going back to readjust idle to target if the adjustments to the fuel map to reach target afr took you off target rpm.
-groovin
It's all good man! Good info. I have a new TPS and have calibrated it a few times now and i have verified timing also. But after reading this a few times I'm gonna do it again. Can't hurt. I'll go threw this all again and see if I can get the idle down to 800. I've been at 900 for a few years now. I had increased it due to it always stalling when coming to a stop. But thanks to skeeze and rightbrain i have figured that part out. So we will see soon if i can get her to idle a little lower.
Among others, the adjustment of the throttle off overrun helped maintain your idle when coming off the throttle. When I tried to set the values lower the engine would die out. My goal was to get it to cut off near target idle (approximately 1000 rpm) but with my engine setup, lack of emissions, target idle rpm of 800 and other modifications, the engine didn't seem to like that. Most of the changes done by skeese are consistent with my setup. With everyone here you should be in good hands and I hope you are able to reach your goals. I'm still learning myself and have only about a year experience with tuning a rotary using adaptronics select pnp ecu and a couple weeks with megalogviewer but I do have past experience with other ecus which has been of some assistance. Verifying that your idle components are mechanically and electronically sound then tuning idle and transient throttle rules out any issues that may derive from them which then paves a clearer road for tuning your car and diagnosing problems future problems.
It's all good man! Good info. I have a new TPS and have calibrated it a few times now and i have verified timing also. But after reading this a few times I'm gonna do it again. Can't hurt. I'll go threw this all again and see if I can get the idle down to 800. I've been at 900 for a few years now. I had increased it due to it always stalling when coming to a stop. But thanks to skeeze and rightbrain i have figured that part out. So we will see soon if i can get her to idle a little lower.
Carl
I think the key to getting idle that low is really a balance of the mechanical settings of the TB (idle bleed, plate set screw, TPS table choke) and proper use of the ISC valve. Its pretty easy to balance out with a stock or street port, but as port size increases so does sensitivity of that balance. What does the car idle at if you close the bleed screw all the way now?
09-14-18, 07:28 PM
