FFE Hall Effect 36-1 Trigger kit setup
 

Wanted to start another thread since it's more of a question.

I connected everything and when setting the timing lock General with 0.0* BTDC but in order for the timing light to match the marks on the 0 of the trigger wheel, I have to do a -5* offset on the General Lock, as the timing lock Rotary looks to be designed for factory pulley/trigger with 5*/20* and general 0* for FFE triggers.

Anyone else had this issue or did I mess something up during initial cranking and timing?

Also since I have the timing light, can anyone provide a list of angles during lock that each of the plugs should be firing at? like T1 is 0* and L1? vs T2 and L2.

I set my up at 0° L1 thats tdc. The yellow mark on the pulley is not tdc on fc or fd.. It is on the older rx7. Safe spark split is 10° for the whole table. How did you determine where 0 tdc was at on the ffe wheel i had a hard time with that. No mark on my wheel or directions.

When I initially looked over the quick start guide, I thought it said leading front coil, but after it came up to 0 on that, i re-read again, and switched to Trailing on the front rotor, but after setting it to general timing lock i had to retard -5* to have the timing light match, the newer FFE trigger wheels for the 36-1 have engraved markings on the trigger wheel with -15 -10 -5 0 5 10 15 on them so to make sure users can see the timing better!

I have just done timing light today using FFE 36-1 wheel with stock reluctor sensor.
I had to retard -12 Degree under base angle tab to match the FFE needle to 0 TDC with T1 coil, and pondering if this is normal.
This is with a HKS twin power amplified stock coils on Hiroshima New block.

After -12 Deg adjustment, I noticed my vacuum is stronger to 40KPA from 45~50KPA (-60 from -55) at idle.
Adaptronic quick start guide instructs to leave the timing unlocked so I left it unlocked.

Is -12 Deg adjustment normal?