ECU not cutting fuel with pedal depressed / Horrible hot start & hesitation issues
The timing is set correctly, as per the Turblown write up for an FC with stock CAS. Car is running LS coils, with the dwell set at 4300. Timing is around 25-28ish in vacuum, 12-ish at lower boost levels, and 9-10-ish above 8psi. Just trying to get the car running and driving around on this base map, so we can tune it. VE numbers are in the high 60's/low 70's in vacuum, and gradually higher throughout boost(not fully tuned though) Car idles at 13.5afr. Running 4 BUR9EQ's.
Having trouble starting my car once it has been ran. Even if just for a few minutes. It floods, BAD. When I press the pedal to the floor, it still shoots in fuel. Everything that needs to be set up to stop that, has been. The car also has a bad hesitation when free revving, or driving, when the pedal is depressed quickly, it stutters, and pops, and then revs. When I checked "trace", and replicated the results, it will go from idling around 1000rpm/16-18inhg, then quickly drop the 0 inhg squares highlight in red, it will stumble/pop, and then rev up. It also breaks up if floored. |
Can you post a datalog and ecu file ? Have you calibrated the tps and checked to make sure all sensors are reading correctly ? Have you emailed tech ? To be clear it starts cold fine, just not hot ? Have you tried adjusting hot start cranking map ?
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Originally Posted by Turblown
(Post 11897900)
Can you post a datalog and ecu file ? Have you calibrated the tps and checked to make sure all sensors are reading correctly ? Have you emailed tech ? To be clear it starts cold fine, just not hot ? Have you tried adjusting hot start cranking map ?
TPS is calibrated, I will try, and get a datalog file asap. CAS is reading fine, Water temp is reading fine, Air temp is reading fine, wideband (MTXL) is reading fine, RPM signal etc. Everything seems fine. Cold start takes around 10-20 seconds. Sometimes it starts right up though. And the hot start cranking map has been adjusted, yes. |
Also if there's an ecu file available that will suit my set up, that would be great.
E420D Large streetport T04B FMIC FD AIT LS coils Stock CAS 780/900cc Bosch EV14's Aeromotive stealth 340 Aeromotive FPR @38psi base pressure |
I've had hot start issues and flooding too. I'd suggest pulling the plugs and checking their condition first. I found that mine needed a serious cleaning and after being cleaned with carb cleaner and a brass brush my problem was solved. I made all sorts of adjustments to my cranking fuel table with no avail before cleaning them. Once you can verify the plugs are good remove fuel from the VE cranking map (found in corrections tab) in the warm-hot start regions. Between the plug cleaning and change in cranking fuel my car starts instantly and doesn't flood like it was previously doing.
As for the flood clear feature in the 'power cut' tab, make sure your 100% TPS is set and ensure that the box titled "cut fuel on WOT during cranking" is checked. This likely wont de-flood your car if your plugs are too bad though, so I wouldn't put to much stock in this until you verify those are good to go. Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong here. Any comment from Elliot @ turblown is definitely to be taken over mine |
Originally Posted by Skeese
(Post 11898466)
I've had hot start issues and flooding too. I'd suggest pulling the plugs and checking their condition first. I found that mine needed a serious cleaning and after being cleaned with carb cleaner and a brass brush my problem was solved. I made all sorts of adjustments to my cranking fuel table with no avail before cleaning them. Once you can verify the plugs are good remove fuel from the VE cranking map (found in corrections tab) in the warm-hot start regions. Between the plug cleaning and change in cranking fuel my car starts instantly and doesn't flood like it was previously doing.
As for the flood clear feature in the 'power cut' tab, make sure your 100% TPS is set and ensure that the box titled "cut fuel on WOT during cranking" is checked. This likely wont de-flood your car if your plugs are too bad though, so I wouldn't put to much stock in this until you verify those are good to go. Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong here. Any comment from Elliot @ turblown is definitely to be taken over mine |
Hi mate,
Please email us the log file of the no-start problem and the current ECU file to tech@adaptronic.com.au (Attn:Mark) and I will check it for anything obvious. Thank you. :) |
I have the same problem. My plugs are fine. Mine does cut fuel at WOT, I see the AFR gauge go to full lean, but car still doesn't restart when hot.
Strangely it only does this after SITTING when hot. Initially, right after shutdown it will restart immediately. But let the heatsoak creep in and its done. If I stand on the starter for 30 seconds it will eventually catch and fire right up. I'm going to check the crank pulse signals, as for some reason I still have this inclination that the CAS sensor is dropping out when heatsoaked/hot. Furthermore, the 20b has an EWP. I can cool it down to 140F, makes no difference. Still difficult to restart after running long time/heatosaked. Oddly sitting in garage, hood popped, not moving, even up to 225F it will restart all day. Its heatsoak that screws it up. I also have terrible misfiring/hesitation stuttering at initial throttle tip-in. I've had many people see the map, including tech, and have had the car at an Adaptronic dealer's shop for tuning and its still hesitant. Going to keep pushing, but at this point, it scares me as I stall in traffic on accident and have to be pushed off the road.... |
as you know I have microtech, but had similar issues. My issue was air temp compensation. Once it was heat soaked, it would lean out the engine because I took fuel out at high temps. I took the compensation out, and never had the issues. No way of knowing whether this is your problem, but shouldn't be hard to check.
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about the hesitation, it is usually because it's running lean. did you try adding fuel to the box (~0"-16"Hg) at the hesitation rpm?
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