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Yet another smoke diagnosis
As the title says, the car is smoking its oil, definitely not coolant. It would be signs of a oil control ring, but doesn't mimic one that I've see. This is my second rotary.
No omp 2cycle mix 1oz/gal, fresh rebuild by addicted, rebuilt single turbo. Stock primary's 2000cc secondarys. The car smokes when first started, big time about 10sec, spyhunter style. Then clears until you apply throttle, then it burns off the residual for about 10more sec. Then the first time boosting then it clears up, won't smoke on decel, 1bar boost, or idle. It will smoke at partial throttle at around 2psi. I am thinking the turbo is failing, no oil in intake yet, oil consumption is a quart every 600miles. Running Philips 66 20w50. Idle afr is 13.0, cruise is 12.2-12.4 boost is 10.5-11. I know it is rich, I am dumping the apexi for an adaptronic. Minor fuel dilution on oil. Let me know your thoughts, plan is to rebuild when it becomes a smoke screen. Coolant pressure test is in check, it is definitely blue and smells like burning oil (not of the 2 cyle variety) |
Are the omp check valves vented to the atmosphere?
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Originally Posted by Barry Bordes
(Post 11969341)
Are the omp check valves vented to the atmosphere?
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No pcv system? You have a catch can installed and routed, right?
Matt |
Originally Posted by Mrmatt3465
(Post 11969396)
No pcv system? You have a catch can installed and routed, right?
Matt |
Originally Posted by qqqqball
(Post 11969403)
it is a vented catch can off of the oil fill neck. it is an open turbo.
One line out of the oil filler neck into the catch can. Line out of other side of catch can goes down to turbo inlet pipe. not to sound harsh, but people always just stick a can on with a breather and they hope that some "crankcase pressure differential" will magically make the oil find the catch can and stay in it... How, I really don't know. Oil needs to be pulled into the can, and held. Which is only possible with the non-vented setup described above. At best, the catch can rerouting could eliminate a bit of the smoking until you get around to addressing a deeper issue. At worst, no change and you know you need to go deeper into the problem.. |
Are you sure you have the correct size oil line restrictor installed for the turbo?
What size oil line/ fitting & what turbo? |
Originally Posted by 96fd3s
(Post 11969481)
Are you sure you have the correct size oil line restrictor installed for the turbo?
What size oil line/ fitting & what turbo? |
Originally Posted by SA3R
(Post 11969455)
Plumb the catch can the conventional way- IE:
One line out of the oil filler neck into the catch can. Line out of other side of catch can goes down to turbo inlet pipe. not to sound harsh, but people always just stick a can on with a breather and they hope that some "crankcase pressure differential" will magically make the oil find the catch can and stay in it... How, I really don't know. Oil needs to be pulled into the can, and held. Which is only possible with the non-vented setup described above. At best, the catch can rerouting could eliminate a bit of the smoking until you get around to addressing a deeper issue. At worst, no change and you know you need to go deeper into the problem.. I put a electric vacuum pump on it and it made the problems worse. |
If you are burning 1 quart every 600 miles and not smoking like a train under boost you have engine issues not turbo issues.
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Been busy over the past few weeks to publish this, torn the turbo apart to see if it was leaking... it was.
Also looked in motor with manifold off, saw a lot of oil (after running with no turbo, just open manifold. So I tore it down to do a bridgeport anyway. Found a front rotor bearing with heat skoring and a clearance to the eshaft of .012 (factory is .001 +/-.00005) Crank shaft had no run out but major heat skoring (not visible in the pics) Well all that heat tanked the inner oil seal o ring on the front rotor. Amazingly the housings are all fine, a testament to running pre-mix. The cause was plugged oil jets in the eshaft due to what looks like metal filings. It is a pity I do not have a good picture. The motor was rebuilt due to a bad detonation at high boost by previous owner. The Oil cooler were "flushed" but not changed, I assume that's where it came from. Pulling the motor apart it was apparent that this warranty rebuild was done on a shoe string budget, now I am not blaming the company that rebuilt it as I don't know what the old owner wanted to pay for and what was covered by the warranty. The coolant seals disintegrated upon removal, oil fill neck had no O-ring. The turbo had some interesting screen door filter. Absolutely loved the broken Xcessive O-ring on the oil pan that was silconed back together and installed. Fuel system was a mix mash of OEM hoses, braided steel lines, and factory brass lines with a leaky injector diffuser. Harness had some bs black box wired inline, did look at what wires, but the power line to is was disconnected, and didn't power up. Also the Harness has some nice house style wire twists (like you would find in a junction box in your house). $700 later (good to have family at mazda), a bunch of new parts, and a lot of housing flushes and hot washes, the engine is smoke free and Braping along in its break in cycle. And I'm off my soap box. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...667f64d2fb.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...152a631c7d.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e97f84a9ee.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...62276d71b7.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...00cee080d0.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2942b496dd.jpg |
It's sad how many FD's have hack work like this done to them. I'm glad you're taking the time to fix it and do it right.
This is the small stuff that adds up and bites you in the ass later. Take pride in your work and do it right with the right parts! Glad you're brappin' away again! Dale |
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