XS ignition pack..Blown Fuse?!
 

What could cause this? I pulled out of the driveway and the car died...then wouldn't start.. I replaced the fuse with another but it cranked started to fire up then died again...... Any Help is welcome thanks!

If fuses are blowing in it, either the unit is bad or you have a short to ground somewhere.

Only way a fuse blows is if there's too much of a load on the circuit, most usually caused by a short.

Dale

Thanks dale... i'll look around and see what I can find... thanks much!

Okay....well I found the problem I think...but the car still doesnt start. I removed my fender liners yesterday and chewed up some of the wiring harness that runs alongside the drivers side fender. I went through and electrical taped up all the wiring that was showing metal... and there were about 6... But none of them had broken in the slightest...oddly enough just rubbed through rubber. But I'm guessing this is where it must've arc'ed. Moved the harness out of the way...to a much safer location.

Could I have possibly done something to my coils at all? It turns over, and right when its about to fire I'll get a couple combustions then it looses momentum and just cranks. Went through all the fuses...and theyre were none burnt out. Probly shouldn't have but I replaced the 20W fuse from the ignition amp with a 25W but the same thing happens... the fuse just doesn't blow everytime it halfly fires. Anymore Ideas? At this point i'm really not sure what to do...

any chance all your cranking flooded it? try the deflood procedure and see if it'll fire up.

Steps
1. Pull the fuel pump relay.
2. Pull and clean the plugs or get a new set.
3. Turn the motor over with the plugs out and the gas peddle wide open for 10 to 15 seconds.
4. Wait 15 minutes and repeat step 3. Keep repeating these steps until no more gas sprays out of the spark plug holes.
5. Put 1 tablespoon of ATF into each rotor housing through the spark plug holes.
6. Put the clean plugs back in but do not hook up the plug wires.
7. Rotate the motor with the gas peddle wide open for 10 to 15 seconds.
8. Reinstall the fuel pump relay and plug wires.
9. Try to start it.
It will smoke a lot and probably run like crap. Don't let it die and after 20 to 30 seconds it should run on its own.

SOURCE: http://www.fd3s.net/starting_flooded.html

Yea.....i'm positive its not flooded... reason I say that is it combusts a couple times but doesn't completely catch.

So tonight after work..10pm I drove 230 miles round trip to pick up an igniter...thinking that could've been the problem. Well.. Good news is I have good friends who are able to source parts for me on a whim, I met Mike (MDpalmer) and he's bad ass, and.. know I have an extra igniter.. The bad news is I'll be missing Redline Time attack tomorrow and sunday because of this.. S** O* A B****!!! I do however have a question... What on earth is this? could it possibly be causing the short? i'm almost positive this is the wire that connects all the way through the harness and to the Fuse before my Ignition AMP..

It is the condenser and it will not cause the short, it is for proper operation of the tach.

You need to follow the wires from the XS amp. Where does the large orange wire go? I can guess that is goes to the coil 12V positive, but I can not find any installation instructions for that amp.

If it keeps blowing then you have a short. Use the FSM page Z-28. The same 12v b/w wire feeds the igniter and coils as well as your amp (most likely). My guess is this wire is grounding out somewhere

Your right the orange wire goes to the Coil12V positive.... I'll follow the 12v Black and white tonight when I get off work...

Okay so i'm pretty sure I found the wires.. because the 20 amp fuse doesn't blow when I crank it. But the car still doesn't start... you think I should try some new coils? I'm unsure of what to do now..

Is there anyway I can check these coils to see if they're still any good?

Are you using stock coils? If so, you can use the FSM test:

Got a spare spark plug? Pull a plug wire off and check to see if you are getting spark while cranking the ignition

No spark = Coil burnt out.. pulled off the UIM... So I have 2 fd coils and 1 T2 coil.. all numbers From Front of motor to rear N3a1 Second N3a3 and third Nta2....

New coils installed. Good thing is the car runs... Bad news is I pulled the plugs and they were carboned up... Brushed them off and the car runs...but starts hard. I'm gonna throw in my Back up New Bur's tomorrow morning and hopefully that fixes it. I'm almost certain it's the plugs though. They're the gredd 7420's and even though they show almost no wear... they have a good 5K on them. Its about that time for them to go. Updates tomorrow morning!!

Changed the plugs.... still has the same problem. Something interesting though..If I pull off a vac line off the UIM after the throttle body...the car bumps up like it used to idle... when I put it on....it drops again..

It's not the plugs. I ran the same plugs for over 25k with hard abuse on them and there was nothing wrong with them.

Your idle should go up when you pull a vacuum line since it creates a vacuum leak and adds more air to the engine. Maybe you just need to turn up your idle. Have you tried going for a drive and seeing how it idles after?

thewird

Drove it around this morning and it drove just fine... i'll try adjusting the idle...