:yawn: Been there...done that. Do you actually THINK I just slap a bearings in and call it a day? My stock motor went to 8000+ rpms for over a year. I accidentally swaped the coil signal wires and cracked 6 apex seals...when I pulled the motor apart...Bearings were just fine. I put on over 50,000 KM on that motor with even bearing wear...the bearing still had the COLOR indicator on it! All the other engine failure's have been overboost(38 psi:eek: ) and one tuning mishap.

Guys in the states are just TOO scared to take thier motors past "stock" redline. For a stock turbo, stock redline's great, but a T-45S is FAR from stock.

Like I said, for what it's worth. I assumed it happened because of that. Either way, I removed the heat wrap and am back down to low EGTs again and no blown motors...at least none from seals cracking

Maybe you should rephrase what you saying to make it a bit easier to understand. For instance, when you say "back down to low EGTs again", maybe you should say "back down to low EGT readings again". In reality, the former isn't accurate, the later is ;)

As long as your happy bud! :cool:

jspec,

I'm saying that for starters the bearings need to be clearanced differently than stock if you're going to be running 9000 rpm+.

A couple of small points over what some others have said.

If you have a DP that hasn't already been isntalled, or are willing to R&R it, then send it to Jet-Hot or one of the similar places, and make sure to get the high-temp coating. Coat in and out, and give then explicit instructions not to coat the 02 thread.

That will give good thermal protection. If you want to add wrap on top of that it shouldn't hurt, and I did this to subtly alter the tone of the exaust. I can still hear the turbos whine just fine, but it takes some of the sharpness off the idle sound. not a lot but I like the change.

If you aren't up for shipping you DP for coating then you can wrap and you might look into getting a can of the High-Temp silicone paint. This can be used to help fix the wrap in place, and provide a small bit of protection if you are wrapping a non-SS pipe.

wrap half of it! no glove no love

I'm convinced to go wrap my dp. I'm gonna wrap it this weekend and I'll let ya'll know how I like it...:D

Yeah, i'm sold on the summit racing ones :) While I was at SuperAutoBacs, it was just tempting as hell; with the product in one hand, wallet in the other....

Any particular difference between "header wrap" and "exhaust wrap"? Any reason not to get header wrap for the entire exhaust system (since it's prob meant for higher temps)?

Ech, pretty much answered the question I wanted to ask. I have a DP that is about to go on soon. Does it help to both have the pipe coated and wrap? Anyone else have thoughts on doing both-results and impressions??

u guyz literaly convincin me to wrap that bitch now.. thats why i stay this forum much more the other. u learn every day.. Thanks

Roar 629--you crack me up man...now go wrap da bitch and tell me the results ok..:).

Just to churn the mixture somewhat:

http://ausrotary.dntinternet.com/for...pic.php?t=3696

I say wrap it, there shouldn't be any performance decreases and its sort of a reliability mod, better to change your dp every 5 years than your turbos every 3.

Explain this statement please.

The wrapping of the dp will increase its rate of rusting, but it will decrease engine bay temperatures (suposedly dramatically) thus decreasing the chance of overheating and increasing the turbo's probability of survival

Overheating what? How will this affect the turbos themselves? Have you ever heard of turbos failing because of excessive underhood temps created by the downpipe?

I think all in all, overheating is bad, if not for the turbos, then for the engine itself, your saving something, why not just go the extra mile and buy the wrap.

So explain how the DP will cause overheating.

I think he's referring to excess heat in the engine compartment. Wrapping the dp can reduce radiant heat therefore reducing the underhood temperatures. All the stuff (wiring, rubber, turbos, etc) will potentially have a longer life as a result. Or are you just yanking him, Kento? ;)

Wrapping DP and exhaust components is a good idea - it increases post-combustion scavenging.

But I also think it results in greater demands on the exhaust materials - hence the reduced life. Makes sense - no such thing as a free lunch.

So the Jet-hot is considered the better option over the wrap? So a mild steel downpipe with a jet-hot coating is the best? Someone posted they could touch a a coated downpipe after a hard run is this true??!?!

Considering that the pre-cat was there before it, I don't think you will run into too many problems with overheating in regards to the DP.

FYI, I contacted Jet-Hot today, they want $20/foot to coat the downpipe, so that should be about $60. Return shipping is ~$20 also.

For comparison, Pegasus Racing sells a 50' roll of 2" wide x 1/16" thick header wrap for for $50.00, and claims one roll is enough to wrap one set of 4-cylinder headers. (Part No. 1830, www.pegasusautoracing.com )

-scott-

Seems like ther are two different issues here. As far as underhood temps. wrap the down pipe. As far as turbo efficiancy,I'm no thermodynamics professor but it seems like after you send hot expanded exhaust gas to the turbine wheel, you would want to expend it out as fast as possible, with as little resistance as possible.Since cold air is denser than warm air, would'nt it make sense that you wrap the entire exhaust after the turbo. Also, jet-hot is a real catchy name but what is the r value of that stuff

g

After reading this thread I too am convinced to wrap my DP. I'll let you guys know how it works out.

Mitch