|
Originally Posted by 1QWIK7
(Post 10650335)
lol you're still not getting it dude.
If the OP's original question was about normal driving, why even mention your 100+mph pulls? And your temps for that? Not everyone hits the 100mph when daily driving their regular car and/or FD. You say your temps stay at 83c when you do these runs. Well duh, you're going that fast, im sure all that air will cool down the engine bay? Right? Or am i missing something? lol You still didnt answer me about after you're done making that turbo work, what is your temp when you come to a dead stop? With no fans? You say you do these runs where theres no traffic lights. Ok thats cool. What about entering the town, to even get to your house? Lots of stop and go, and slow driving there. What about if theres an accident on the highway and you have to come to a dead stop? What happens if you get stuck at a railroad track and theres a train? O yeah you shut off the engine. lol BUt then theres heatsoak. WHenever you shut off your car, your coolant temps rise before they decend. Thats a FACT. YOur coolant isnt being circulated anymore so its just sitting there being cooked by the heat of the engine and its acc. Thus the temp going up. I can take a video of my temp gauge sitting at 190F, ill shut off my car and i wont pop my hood (even though i always do after a drive), and i bet you my entire bank account it will rise 10F or more within 5 minutes. DO YOU HAVE A DATA LOGIT or the software to view data logs???? I have the data logs of exactly what you ask for, can you intepret them??? if not I am done trying to convince you... |
Originally Posted by seandizzie
(Post 10650438)
DO YOU HAVE A DATA LOGIT or the software to view data logs???? I have the data logs of exactly what you ask for, can you intepret them??? if not I am done trying to convince you...
You're basically arguing that you dont need fans since you "daily drive" your car with no fans for whatever 9+ months etc. Going WOT in warm weather lol. Then shutting off your car lol. Come on man, lets be serious now. |
This thread has derailed
|
It has derailed, any improvements or changes in your problems.
|
1) Haven't driven my car for a week, so don't have new data to analyze.
2) Bought some r1 coolers than need to be installed 3) Still considering some other options I might drive the FD to work tomorrow, we'll see how the forecast looks. |
1
|
Drove the car to work, on the way to work everything was fine. Coming home, not so good.
On the way home ambient was 90* F, > 52% humidity cruising along at 70 mph, little if any boost previously: Water: 95* Oil: ~195* Air Charge: 45* End up behind 4 gravel trucks (2 in left lane, 2 in middle lane), so dropped to 4th to pass on right. 10 psi (stock twins), for about 5-10 seconds, pass trucks, back to 5th. About 1/4 mile later: Water: 103* Oil: ~230* Air Charge: 50* Pulled over and shut it down for 10 minutes. Started it up, and babied it the rest of the way home . Oil temp kept around 210, water lowest temp was 101* |
mistake
|
I see that you deleted your ast. The air serpent tank helps prure air bubbles out of the cooling system. Air pockets in you cooling system would cause irratice/ temps. Is your low fluid warning system working. Have you purged the coolant system with the cap off and the heater on??
Have you check you inlet to the radiator for a blockage. Paper, dead bird... Seems like alot of temp rise for 10 sec of throttle. |
Originally Posted by seandizzie
(Post 10652195)
I see that you deleted your ast. The air serpent tank helps prure air bubbles out of the cooling system. Air pockets in you cooling system would cause irratice/ temps. Is your low fluid warning system working. Have you purged the coolant system with the cap off and the heater on??
Have you check you inlet to the radiator for a blockage. Paper, dead bird... Seems like alot of temp rise for 10 sec of throttle. Regardless: No air pockets in my system, I don't even hear the "running water" sound in the heater core when backing out of my garage in the morning anymore. Low fluid warning system works, I'm not losing coolant. Yes I've purged the coolant system. Nothing blocking the radiator. |
Ah. What condition is its duck/core in on your oil cooler.
|
Deleted.
|
Originally Posted by doofy
(Post 10651818)
Drove the car to work, on the way to work everything was fine. Coming home, not so good.
On the way home ambient was 90* F, > 52% humidity cruising along at 70 mph, little if any boost previously: Water: 95* Oil: ~195* Air Charge: 45* End up behind 4 gravel trucks (2 in left lane, 2 in middle lane), so dropped to 4th to pass on right. 10 psi (stock twins), for about 5-10 seconds, pass trucks, back to 5th. About 1/4 mile later: Water: 103* Oil: ~230* Air Charge: 50* Pulled over and shut it down for 10 minutes. Started it up, and babied it the rest of the way home . Oil temp kept around 210, water lowest temp was 101* |
Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6
(Post 10652792)
What's the condition of your oil cooler? Maybe you need to re-comb the fins?
|
Wonder if the thermostat to allow oil into the oil cooler is stuck/clogged.
|
I'm interested in your guys water temps. I have been thrashing mine around the hill roads just today and didn't see more than 73/74 degrees c, and most most 81 idling at lights (This is on a PFC, stock radiator), I get nervous when it's over about 76, however it seems I have nothing to worry about after reading some of the temps on here. However the "add coolant" light came on and beeped at me breifly on the stock water temp gauge which I have not happened before..
|
Those temps are too cold, Josh. The only thing you should be worried about is your car running too COLD, not too hot. ;) I'd be willing to bet that almost every FD on this board runs over 80 deg C.
As for the "add engine" light, you'll more than likely be pulling the motor soon. 9 times out of 10, that's the start of a blown coolant seal, although it is possible you could have a leak somewhere. That'd be best case scenario. :P |
Ah dammit! So whats the reason for engine running to cold? NOW I'm worried! My stock temp gauge sits on around half as normal. Could it possibly be the thermostat? Perhaps I'll replace that and see.
I should probably add it's like 12 degrees C here in NZ at moment to. Don't know what temp you guys are facing over there. |
The stock temp gauge should read:
Off Somewhere between too cold and too hot Replace Coolant seals |
You could just have a stuck t-stat (stuck open), which is not allowing the engine to come up to temp. It never hurts to start there, since the t-stat is a quick, cheap, and easy fix. :)
|
^what he said.
Your watching these temps on an aftermarket gauge? Maybe your aftermarket gauge wasn't seeing any coolant go through it if it was too low and therefore wasn't reading properly. |
I'm reading the temps through a PFC. I'll sort a thermostat in next couple days and chuck it in and go from there. Cheers for help.
|
the stock t-stat isn't fully open until the mid 80s (85 or 86 IIRC)
|
the stock t-stat isn't fully open until the mid 80s (85 or 86 IIRC) Thermostat opening temperature: 80.5 - 83.5°C Full-open temperature: 95°C Full-open lift (minimum): 8 - 10 mm (0.31 - 0.39") |
Today I started working on putting in my new oil cooling system. When I pulled off the bumper I saw my coolant overflow tank had really nasty stuff in it. I'm wondering how much of that gunk is in my radiator, coolant channels, and heater core. I think I needs to have a true "flush" with cleaner, not just a drain + fill and see what comes out. Are the flushing cleaners harmful to any of the seals in our car? I wouldn't see why they would be, but figured I'd better ask.
|
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:57 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands