Will bolting 5 out of the 6 in LIM be enough
 

What do you all think in your opinion, if I were to mount the LIM without the bottom rear bolt...so 5 bolts instead of 6, do you think I will have a leak for the rear housing.

Reason being, I finally got my turbo kit from A-Spec and Sean had sent me a milled LIM, when I torqued that bolt, damn thing broke with the stud in the block. Unfortuantely, the break is completely flush with the block and there was no material to grab. To make matters worse, I bought a screw extractor kit, drilled the hole, couldn't get the bolt out. I had a mechanic friend come over and he tried and broke the tip off the extractor...and last but not least tried to re-drill the stud with the extractor tip intact, but now nearly impossible to drill. Any ideas if I could just get by with out that part bolted down?

I don't have a pic, but the bolt pattern is standing on the turbo side, facing the motor. And the motor is out of the car.
o____o
x o o o

The one in X is busted

sorry to say but yes you will need that bolt, when your pushing X amount of boost through the intakes i will force air out wherever it can escape. your best bet is to get a very hard and sharp drill bit and attempt to re-thread the hole.

:scratch: yes...having all six is best but I guess you can still drive it with 5...

Broken bolt
 

You will need to get it out and replace it. Definately will cause a leak. Don't have any other suggestions as far as removing it other than what you have tried. Don't think heat or cold will work in this case.

damn, well my last resort is to take it to the machine shop, good thing motor is out, bad thing is trying to lift the damn thing to the back of my car...I do wonder if a shop can actually pull it out. It's ugly looking now

At worst if it is totally f'ed they can drill out the hole, tap it and put in a Heli-Coil insert.

this..... a good machine shop can do anything.... for a price.

It will definitely leak without all the bolts. You'll find your idle all messed up (it will idle high), you won't be able to make full boost, and you run the risk of sucking debris or liquid into your motor.

Don't risk it.

Yup, not going to risk anything...spent $3k for this 0miles motor and $3600 for the turbo kit.

Now I'm wondering how much more I have to dump at the machine shop for this stupid bolt. Any ideas?

well if the motor is out, you can get some really good 135 deg split point drill bits. with a steady hand and a good makita drill you can drill out the bolt your self. and as stated above, you can use a heli-coil insert or tap the block for a new sized bolt.

drilling through metal isn't that big of a deal with a good drill bit and drill.

every time I use a screw extractor, I end up breaking the damn screw extractor and wishing I never used it and just drilled the damn thing out to begin with. Especially when the stupid screw extractor is harder than my drill bits >.<

+1 and QFT. haha

Well, I hauled the motor to a machine shop and they said they couldn't do anything for me except disassemble the motor and stick the housing on the table and maybe drill it out...of course this is a rotary and since they werent familar with it, they weren't going to attempt it. They also said since the extractor bit was in the bolt, there was no bit could cut through it.

I brought it over to a mechanic friend of mine who specialize in welding and he said he may be able to weld a piece of metal and maybe, just maybe pull the bolt out.

Anyone have any ideas for options for me?

Does anyone know how much this part of the housing cost on the board, and let alone this motor has a street port, is there anything ported on this part of the motor?

The screw extractor material is strong but very brittle. In the past I've had some (limited at best) luck taking a small strong punch and breaking the easy out apart and picking it out bit by bit while drilling with super strong drill bit
( http://www.wlfuller.com/html/drills_...ned_steel.html ) ( http://www.biscotoolsupply.com/home/...ned_metal.html )<-- Points you in the right direction.


( http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/brok...hat-80785.html ) <--This link also has some methods stated.
( http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19559 ) <--Welding methods for your friend.

I would try and find a machine shop with an EDM machine, it pretty much vaporizes the bolt, leaving the hole and threads relatively intact.

^^ rusty gent is correct,

go the the shop get a reverse thread extracting drill bit, same size as the hole

first, use freeze spray on the extractor and get it as cold as you possibly can over a period of bursts. sharp punch in the center to break the extractor.

heat around the hole with an oxy small blue flame just to heat up the area around the bolt, not the bolt itself, very gentle not too much heat.

quickly re-freeze the bolt.

hit it flat stick with the drill, once it starts to catch it will start working the stud out. some times you can only get a half dozen turns before the bit bites too much. stop here.

get a grinder with a 1mm cut off disc and cut a slot in the head of the exposed bold, use a flat head screwdriver and remove.

machine shop. for your sanity's sake.

machine shop didn't bother trying, my welder can budge the damn bolt..he tried 8 times.

I am not familiar with the engine spec since I had crispy build the motor for me, but how much would just that housing normally cost through the board? Is there anything inside of it that is ported?
When I get the block back, I'll try chipping out the extractor and seeing what my options are....if I have to do a rebuild, I wouldnt know where to start....

I am not sure how tight the bolt is lodged in the block, but you can also take a cut off wheel and silt the top of the bolt (in the middle) and then use a screw driver to back the bolt out. If the bolt is stubborn and a typical screw driver won't work you can try an impact screw driver (unsure of actual name) to loosen the bolt first.

I've seen a good welder weld an end piece of a bolt onto a broken stud that's stuck in a block. And remove it while heating the block itself. Works great, but not easy to do.

-AzEKnightz

I think this is also a great idea. Impact screw driver is the right term for the part.

However not knowing how "fragile" the stud that's left inside the block is and using an impact screw driver can do more damage than goods.

But it's worth a try if it's my engine.

-AzEKnightz

If i slit a small part of the wall where the gasket sit, do you think that will harm anything considering there is going to be a gasket there and not anywhere near the intake ports...I'm afraid the cutoff wheel for a dremel may be slightly bigger than the M8 bolt.

Also, is that part of the block iron or aluminum?

I think the block is Iron.

As for the cutoff wheel, you can cut it smaller to fit if necessary. Sometimes you gotta do things outside the box to get it done.

Also, I recommend using some penetration lubricant to soak it first before any attemp of using the impact screw driver.

I would avoid cutting or damaging the block. Yes with teh gasket there it might seal it but I wouldnt bet on it. I like my block clean and no damage. But IF IT IS A must, try to minimize any cuts on the block itself.

Good luck! These stuck studs are a pain in the neck!

-AzEKnightz

Man this sucks!
I had the same exact thing happen to me, except it was the fuel rail bolt and the engine was in the car. Tried heat , tried cold, tried breaking it, tried calling a welder, but they were all too scared to try. Finally I took it to this cambodian tuner shop down the street and they were able to drill it out...said they went through 5 hardened drill bits.

I have NEVER seen an bolt extractor do more good than harm and will never use one again.