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Quote:

Originally posted by SPOautos
Its not hard at all to buy a brand new engine. Just walk into any Mazda dealer or call Ray at Malloy Mazda and order all the housings, seals, orings, oil pump and components, eshaft, rotors, ect. The ship them to a good experienced engine builder of choice.

For a quick add up in my head I'd say for all those parts your looking at around $4500-$5000 + labor to put it all together. If I were going to spend that much I'd also have it balanced.

STEPHEN

I agree. Just buy all the parts, put them together yourself or have a professional do it.

I got one of the last mazda new engines. list was around 6000.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Monkman33 (Post 8350295)

I got one of the last mazda new engines. list was around 6000.

:patriot: Thank you for bumping this thread that has been dead for over 4 years just to let us know that you have a brand new Mazda engine. Freaking amazing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLKTOPTRVL (Post 2700952)

I've replace two RX engines in my lifetime, and each time at least one of the tension bolts was loose. I wonder if when replacing the clutch if it might be a good idea to re-tourque them all.

*realizing this is an older thread that was bumped for a ridiculous reason* :lol:...

In the shop manual it actually states that if you ever have the engine/transmission out of the car that you should re torque all of the main housing bolts to spec as it is not that uncommon for them to loosen up over time. Just for shits-n-giggles I re torqued my blown engines main bolts and at least 4 of them had a reasonable amount before it was back in spec, ~60K on that engine... I also checked the used rebuilt engine I just bought and they were all good, 1 of them had a little bit to go but it would have been in spec, I just had my torque wrench in the middle of the range.

Also I seem to remember it saying that as part of an engine overhaul (routine maintenance, whatever) that you should drop the trans and re torque those at certain mileage intervals anyway... but I might just be remembering it incorrectly and it only said to do it when you have gained access to them for some other job.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SLOASFK (Post 8350298)

:patriot: Thank you for bumping this thread that has been dead for over 4 years just to let us know that you have a brand new Mazda engine. Freaking amazing.

Haha... hey, since it IS four years old it may be a good time to ask.. anyone have any experience with these apex seals since then?? Looks like a tall order to fill with the claims they make. vvvv

Quote:

Originally Posted by fc1jz (Post 2700676)

These should make you happy. Could this be the cure for the rotary engine?????

http://www.rotaryaviation.com/2_mm_apex_seals.htm

I have read a whole lot about these and aparently they live up to there name. I have heard they lasted under 28psi and detonation, just trying to blow the seals.

Im getting a set. :mspank:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rocco Ruthless (Post 8350457)

Haha... hey, since it IS four years old it may be a good time to ask.. anyone have any experience with these apex seals since then?? Looks like a tall order to fill with the claims they make. vvvv

searching threads in the rotary performance section awhile back indicate the RWS teflon encapsulated seals dont fit well. People have been going for the mccaster carr o ring sets. And as far as their apex seals they are just harder so it has its obvious negatives and positives.

wow. I haven't done a necro post like that in a LONG time. oops.

I don't remember doing a search, so I can't quite figure out How i did that.

www.rhdjapan.com

New short block engines... 13B that is or rebuilt RE 20B's