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-   -   White smoke, flooding, fan turn on intermittent (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/white-smoke-flooding-fan-turn-intermittent-555046/)

tdom 06-30-06 10:43 AM

White smoke, flooding, fan turn on intermittent
 
Sorry for alot of typing but just want to explain clearest as possilbe.

After a full swapped from auto to manual the car was running good until one day I let my brother borrowed it the engine was flooded. Ever since the engine keep getting flooded even with new spark plugs. When the car run I'm keep getting white smoke even after running for awhile. Smoke comes and goes heavy at time. Can running too rich cause this? I had a bad alternator so the battery went dead. Can the computer reset itself to run rich?

The radiator fan sometime turns on at 83c, 85c, 95c or at 110c. As you can see it's worries me so now I switched the relay wire to have the fan turn on when the ignition is turn. Now I get constant 83c to 85c all the time. By doing this will it be a problem?

It seems that when I start the car and the car start at first then it shut off then it wouldn't start for awhile this is when the flood happened and there seems to be a lot of pressure build in the coolant bay and the add coolant light comes on (there are plenty of coolent). From time to time the coolent will overflow when driving.

Ooh, the upper manifold is making noise like it's getting zap. Is this normal?

Car was tune and dyno to run at 15psi. Car did hit 15psi once during dyno but couldn't get back at 15psi again. The guy said there was no o-ring on the blow-off valve so it's loosing pressure. Can this be the case? Right now it's running at 10psi. I will get it tune again once I can figure out these problem.

Here's what been done to the car so far:

JDM motor 40k miles when replaced
Apexi Power Fc with commander
Blitz intake
T60-1 single turbo
Koyo radiator
XSpower intercooler
Profec B spec II boost control
Downpipe
Tanabe cat back
Aftermarket water & boost gauges


Any help would be great.

Thanks

ProjectD 06-30-06 01:13 PM

Does the white smoke smell sweet? When you pull your plugs are they tinted green? have you or your brother overheated the engine?

tdom 06-30-06 01:23 PM


Originally Posted by ProjectD
Does the white smoke smell sweet? When you pull your plugs are they tinted green? have you or your brother overheated the engine?


Thanks for the reply.

It kind of smell sweet. What does that mean if it smell sweet? The plugs are dark and wet. No, the engine have not been overheat, that is why I switched the relay to have the fan turn on when the ignition is turn. Running between 83c and 85c consistently.

Sgtblue 06-30-06 03:59 PM

White smoke (steam) with a sweet smell from the burnt coolant, over pressurized cooling system, fouled plugs on start up. These are all signs of a coolant seal failure. Search under those terms for more info, but that's likely your problem. They can fail even without having overheated the engine.

tdom 07-03-06 09:53 AM


Originally Posted by Sgtblue
White smoke (steam) with a sweet smell from the burnt coolant, over pressurized cooling system, fouled plugs on start up. These are all signs of a coolant seal failure. Search under those terms for more info, but that's likely your problem. They can fail even without having overheated the engine.

You are absolutly right as I found out over the weekend. What could cause the cooling system to over pressure? Is this a costly repair?

Sgtblue 07-03-06 10:37 AM

Overpressurization of the cooling system occurs when gases from the combustion chamber are able to enter through the compromised seal. There are some who have used blockweld sealer to try to get a few more months out of the engine, but I wouldn't recommend it. I don't think the block-weld is really good for your heater core or the coolant passages/lines of the turbos. The only way to fix it is a rebuild.

tdom 07-03-06 11:34 AM


Originally Posted by Sgtblue
Overpressurization of the cooling system occurs when gases from the combustion chamber are able to enter through the compromised seal. There are some who have used blockweld sealer to try to get a few more months out of the engine, but I wouldn't recommend it. I don't think the block-weld is really good for your heater core or the coolant passages/lines of the turbos. The only way to fix it is a rebuild.


FUCK ME!!!!! I just had this motor put in and had not put over 300 miles of driving. I don't know if the wurrenty is still good because I bought the engine over eight months ago and just got put in.

Over $12000 was spend on upgrades including the motor and this happened and I didn't even get to enjoy it.

What is the cost for this type of rebuild?

Sgtblue 07-03-06 01:46 PM

Search for more infomation. There's a test you can do for hydrocarbons in the coolant. If it's positive for hydrocarbons, I think you can be fairly certain that it's a blown seal. Then you can contact whomever rebuilt it.


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