where is how-to linearize temp guage?
 

can any body help me out with the link, or where to look for this mod. thanks

OK
 

http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/
http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/3rdgen/how-...auge%20mod.pdf

it would not come up there a week or two ago when i tried to. maybe it has been fixed.....

louis

The Linearization How-To is here:

http://us.share.geocities.com/sdrx7_...structions.pdf

Be patient, it may take a couple of minutes for it come up, but I just tried it and it's there.

thanks for the attempt, but my computer says both those sites are bum. where else?

The link GoRacer posted works. Just right-click on the following link and do "SAVE TARGET AS". The file is in Acrobat format so you'll need the Adobe Acrobat Reader installed:

http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/3rdgen/how-...auge%20mod.pdf

Don't ask if it's in another format....

Dude..

Save yourself the head ache. and just buy
an Temperature gauge..

Even if you do find a site and do the Linearize
correctly. YOu'll still be guessamating..
Its not worth it..

Goodluck

temp guauge
 

I did the temp gauge fix. It works great. Bottom white line 170F top line (H) and i am at 230F. Perfectly linear in between and the dash still looks stock.

Bottom white line 170F and Top line 230F??
How do you know???

And inbetween.?? So I guess you'll still be GUESSING..

oh btw. As that needle start moving towards the
Top line. Its gonna be TOO late..

I'll say this... Unless the car is mainly used for tracking, I feel an aftermarket water temp gauge is useless.

Sure, the stock gauge isn't linear, but for normal driving, it doesn't need to be. People aren't driving around staring at their gauges (at least I hope not, I hope they are looking at the road).

If your FD is running so close to overheating that you need an aftermarket gauge to tell *exactly* what temp you are at, I would feel the money should be spent else-where first..

Bottom line, if someone wants to linearize their stock temp gauge, why do you care?

alright i got questions about this. i read the how to a long time ago, before i even had my FD.

where do your guys temp guages sit at normal operating temps? mine never moves. I moved up like half way once, when i was at the track running the 1/4 in 90 degree weather, and then i pulled around, parked it, and it went back down real quick. i've always thought it never worked, until i saw the needle move up that far...

so, what im wondering is, is this how all yours work, or is mine broken?

The stock temperature gauge basically sits near the middle for some temperature range (can't remember the range, but it's a pretty big range).

Basically, if the stock temperature needle is in the middle of the gauge, you are at normal operating temperature. If it moves above the center, you are going to overheat and it's time to shut down.

i found the how to, and its a bitch. i have to use a potentiometer to calibrate the guage against my coolant mixture. forget all that. im just going to watch my stock guage and make sure it doesnt go above half way. thanks for all the responses brothas.

Mahjik..

Of all people i would think that you would know better
than that..

#1 ENEMY of ROTARIES = HEAT...

Two most important Gauges on a FD3S is with out a DOUBLE 1. TEMPERATURE gauge 2. BOOST gauge..

I monitor my TEMP ALL the time. With my PFC commander. I dont even let my ECU turn on my
Fans anymore. As soon as my Temps gets above
90Degree celcius or in traffic, I turn on my Fans
with my Fan Mod Switch..

And if you don't know. With stock TEMP Gauge
If that NEEDLE Ever goes up past Half way..
ITS TOOOOO LAAATEEE... Sure everything is ok
now, reading yoru temp gauge that never moves
BUT when that DAY come..

Let me recommend a place for a new Motor..
Malloy Mazda in VA..

a 60 dollar gauge and 20 dollar mount is a cheap
price to pay for the life of your engine...

You might wonder. How I know?? Because I researched
and researched read this forum inside and out.
I wanted to be cheap and do the Linear temp gauge
thing, also.. Glad I didn't..

Oh yea. one more thing..

If you are Racing, autocrossing, and etc.
although the engines may be under heavy load
but you have the AIR flow, flowing thru your
radiator, oil coolers discipating heat....If tuned
right no problem. and IMO: NOT as bad as sitting
in a traffic jam bumper to bumper in a 100Degree
day with your car heat Soaking.

BTW if you can't glance at a gauge and drive at the
same time. maybe the person should be driving
a honda with an automatic

WhiteRXseven,

How long have you had your FD? And then, how long have you had an aftermarket temp gauge?

I'll bet you've had your FD a lot longer than your aftermarket temp gauge and the car hasn't overheated.

People just go WAY overboard with half of this junk on FD's (heat and fuel). If you are that concerned with saving your engine, why did you get a PFC? If you look, 90% or more of the people that blow seals are using re-programmable aftermarket ECU's. I can't remember the last time I saw a stock, M2, Pettit, GForce or any of the other reprogrammed ones one someones car and they said "I just blew a seal".

That is completely false. Yes, if the temp moves past the midway point, you need to shut down. But that in NO way means the car is toast. Many people have had this happen, shut the car down and didn't cause any damage what so ever. It's the people that keep driving with the gauge raising that cause damage.

People generalize too much, just like the "3 mod rule".

Simple gauge recalibration alternative.

stock gauge does not move from middle, from about 170F-235F. (the high max temp was likely for emissions certification, not engine life).

I manage temps below 210F normally (fan switch, miata switch, parking lites, etc).

I also added resistors in paralled with stock temp sensor (near oil filter), so gauge now starts to rise at 221F. Easy to do with some radio shack resistors and 25 ohm 'pot' to dial it in. just try combos while idling, with fan first comming on at low speed at 221F per mazda spec's. Just soldered final resistors to a wire, and ran to ground in parallel with sensor.

I prefer not to run above 220F, esp at track. Gauge will show 'warmed up' a little ahead of schedule, so go extra mile or so to be sure t-stat has opened and eng is warm.

How do I know what my linearized gauge is reading at different positions? I TESTED IT !!! I used an autometer gauge(two actually) to calibrate my dash gauge. bottom 170 middle 200 top 230. I also wired the stock fan switch to my low coolant light/buzzer. If my car ever hits 230 light comes on and buzzer sounds. That is of course assuming I didn't pay attention to my gauge.

If you wanna know..

I am the Original Owner of a 93 R1.
With almost 130K miles with Original Engine
and Turbos. My Mod list is below..

" WHY Be cheap??"" buy a freaking TEMP gauge.
Stock one is a POS. to modify is a waste of time and
effort.. and no more kinda in the middle stuff..

I knew you were the original owner of your car which is why I said that...

But you didn't answer, how long have you had an aftermarket temp gauge?

WhiteRXseven sounds like an experienced FD owner, whereas Mahjik sounds like a novice who uses ghetto fixes because money is tight.

The fact is, good aftermarket gauges give more precise readings that stock. Any dispute here, and Mahjik should simply turn in the FD now (not worthy).
What you don't know about the FD engine can hurt you, so why not spend the money for better 'engine monitors' instead of on a rebuilt engine.

I have Greddy 60mm gauges w/ warning lights and Peak/Hold capability because I don't always look at my gauges when driving, but I do always want to know about any potential problems. Warning lights can be set and reset in seconds to light at the desired temp.

Note: if temp is rising, simply slow down . do not turn off the engine or stop unless unavoidable.

If you get a good aft mkt gauge, you will find out that if your engine is running hot, the last thing you should do is *suddenly* turn it off because of heatsoak. That means that turning off the engine will make the temp rise 10-30 degrees (I know that because the aft mkt gauges have numbers) above the temp when the engine was on because all liquids that were moving have suddenly stopped, and there is no way to dissipate the heat.

So, for those who want to turn the car off when the temp reaches 230F, you will probably ruin the engine, or most certainly decrease engine life. You will not be one of those claiming to still have the original engine at 130K miles.

Gauges are used to monitor parts of an engine. The better the gauge, the better info you have, and the better decisions you can make. If money is a problem, then an rx7 isn't the car for you.

While were on the subject, the following gauges are also must haves for increased insurance: boost, A/F, EGT, Oil Press or Temp.

This from the person who bought an auto.... :stick:

Good heavens, are you going to go dig up all old threads?

I never said that the stock gave more "precise" readings than aftermarket gauges. What I said was that for 90% of the people that own FD's, linearization of the stock gauge is MORE than enough.

Read the entire thread next time.

Yes, just shutting the car down will promote heat soak. However if the car is overheating from lack of coolant (ie, coolant leak, hose burst, etc), keeping the car running would be a worse idea.

my gauges sits on the second from bottom line, the only time i ever say it go up to them middle was when i took like 3 runs in row without waiting in 90 degree weather, and when let it sit for a couple minutes at idle it started to go back down. so i think something is wrong with mine, unless evan coolant is that damn good

If you spent more time on the forum, you'd realize that Mahjik is not a novice who uses "ghetto fixes". The FACT is that linearizing the stock temp gauge works very well. There is nothing inherently inaccurate about the gauge, it simply responds how Mazda told it to. For some people, it's not about money, it's that they don't want to clutter/ugly up their interior with another gauge if they don't have to.

Considering that most people hook up an A/F gauge to the stock O2 sensor, I hardly think an A/F gauge is a must have. The stock ecu doesn't even rely on data from the O2 sensor at any where near WOT, which is about the only point of concern. Why would you?

Same goes for the EGT gauge. How many people here would even know what a proper temp is? I've seen many posts asking this question and no good answers. Especially since most people place the sensor in the downpipe, which does not give accurate or quick response readings.

As far as oil pressure, my stock gauge seems to work just fine. How much can you really watch it if you're driving the car hard?

I'm no expert so I'm just tellin' from what I see. Also I'm getting a autometer temp gauge soon. My stock gauge used to sit at the middle. But w/ my coolant flush and about a new 80 - 20% water/coolant mixture, plus fan mod, it now sits about 2-3 notches down from the middle for street driving and rush hour. I tun my fans off if I go faster than 50mph.

Hopefully, I can see what the temp really is when I get my gauge. But what would your guesses say my temp is now? At the postion my needle is now in.

I really hope theres a difference.