whats causing this! *video
 

No problems before this, i took the UIM off and still found no lines to be disconnected.
just noticed the up and down idle when i went into neutral after boosting that high for the first time.

I'd recommend buying a bottle of "quick starting fluid" and start to spray slowly around the engine bay. When you hear the engine idles higher and more steady, that's where the leak is.

-AzEKnightz

so you would say its likely to be a vacuum leak rather than a bad sensor somewhere?

My car did that when I bought it and the vacuum line fr the oil filler neck to under the uim by the elbow had a small leak and it made my car idle just like that, it should be one of the bigger lines l, it is right under the throttle body I believe. Try swapping it out and see, like I said my car did the same thing. There should be a check valve? In the middle of the line. Hope this helps

Yes, sounds like a hunting idle to me. (a big vacuum leak)

-AzEKnightz

i noticed that line and check valve, its on there good, ill check that check valve but what should i check for in the valve itself? thanks for the quick responces

it just allows vacuum to suck oil fumes in and then shuts when boost is applied.
If the hose was broke between the valve and the oil filler you would not notice it.
If it was broke between the valve and TB then you would.It would create a vacuum leak.
I don't think that it has anything to do with your problem though.
You have a vac leak somewhere else.
I would be hunting around the area where you last 'fiddled'..you may have accidentally knock a hose loose.
Check the nipple locations at the upper manifold,near the throttle body..(that would be my guess).

The hole on my line was on the throttle body side, well it was more of a rip on the one side haha, happy hunting I hope you find it

an couple of the little lines have little scratches on the inside of the bends, i started it and played with the idle screw and got it to shut up long enough for a drive. ill continue breaking it in for the remainder of the 2000km and try to do all new lines this winter and do the seqential delete and rid myself of the rats nest.

you mentioned you plug'd in a re-flashed JDM ECU. I had this same problem back when I was running stock ECU and plug'd in a knightsports 4Beat ECU. After the idle started to surge, I plug'd up both ends of the 1" hose connected at the top of the plastic intake elbow. I restarted the car after that and it idles fine

worth a try, it maybe same problem

First of all for best performance of your stock IC, close off that opening in the IC duct just in front of the IC. That was there to give air to the stock air filter box.
Left open like that make that IC piece of trash even more useless.

Sounds like normal idle hunting when all is not properly tuned. Could be air leak related or not. First fix the problem by reducing idle air flow then check for a leak.

the katayama racing ecu was put in and a few plugs left off such as the one in my video, i also have full exhaust with a ground cut and my heat light stays on maybe because that ground, i dont know what else is deleted cause i havent seen a untouched 13b and i dont know if it was ever tuned.

so you said it sound like its not tuned? other than the katayama ecu i have full re amemiya exhaust and feed turbo DP apexi intakes. i wanna get a tune no point if i have a vac leak and until this rebuild is broken in.
*offtopic i used my spark plugs from before the rebuild, i orderd some should be here soon but it runs nicely right now for 700km and old plugs.

I had a leak somewhere on my car as well and couldnt find it. Although my result is prob different than what yours most likely is, follow this link and do a pressure test to easily find out if you have a major boost leak. It at least eliminates a lot of options (LIM, UIM gasket especially). Also double check your double throttle and all that bs sitting around the TB. Hope it helps

https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo...power-1007928/