So uh, have you looked to see if you are missing any oil?

i just checked the dipstick for contamination, it wasn't "low" so i didn't really think much of it......but i'll get an exact reading on it to see just how much lower it really is. cause it was full just 2 weeks ago when i changed the oil

any contaminant liquid immiscible and less dense than the coolant will be expelled to the barf can

well thats good, atleast it was thrown to a central location instead of floating around everywhere inside my motor

I should have said "most of it" :)

follow kento's advice, but diagnose the problem before you spend any money on new fluids

That looks very bad.
That AND flushing coolant maybe?

or if the iron is cracked at the dowel pin--where they usually crack from pre-ignition.

as far as the substance being in the can and not anywhere else, it makes sense. if it's oil, it's less dense than evans, and it will float. i wouldn't worry about having it float around in there. once you flush the system (assuming you fix the cause) there shouldn't be any damage to anything.

pour some evans in a cup and add some oil--see what the mix looks like
do the same for gas, then pre-mix

since those are the only fluids in there, those are your only possibilities. see if there's a difference between how the premix oil and the engine oil look. that might help you figure out which one it is.

look for any leaks around your oil feed line on your front iron. i've seen a few housings crack there--especially on higher hp/boost/rpm engines.

Is this car a stick? A failed oil cooler (in the radiator) on an automatic car can cause this kind of mess.

Adicted, if you have the tools, I'd remove the front cover and try to varify Kevin's theory on the leaky freeze plug. The front freeze plug would be the only one to allow oil in. However, judging by the amount, you are either seriously low on oil in the pan now, or someone else added that to the AST.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ale/front1.jpg

I stll think it is the turbo or possibly 3rd party interaction (adding oil to coolant), did you anger anyone recently, or does your car use hoodpins instead of the factory latch?

_Kris

na, that would let the coolant into the oil. the oil isn't pressurised in the front cover--it just splashes around. he would have filled up the oil pan with coolant and overheated promptly.

i would feel somthing like pre-ignition, right? the car has been pulling very smooth through boost i haven't been having any breakup. fwiw the car made 424whp @15psi on pump gas, my a/fs are in the low to mid 11's and i never go above 7500 rpms


yea car is a 5 speed

i do have hoodpins, but i have the factory latch as well. the last i had driven the car was tuesday nite, its been in my garage ever since. i do leave the doors unlocked when it is at my house tho, so i guess its not entirely unpossible if someone left the garage unlocked. i can't really think of a reason why anyone would do that to me tho?????????

looks like i'll be checking the oil level today to see if i can rule that out or not

Since im a believer in everything being the simplest problem: Are you sure no one has messed with you/your car and dumped some oil in the overflow?

It may sound stupid but i figure its better to think about it before you rip the engine apart looking for the problem

Edit: ooops someone already beat me to it

You're right that the front and rear irons can crack in these spots, and oil flows through these areas so you'd have an external oil leak. Please explain how coolant would interact with said oil leaks, though? :scratch:

Have you changed your oil since you noticed the funky coolant?

-s-

the leak doesn't have to be solely external. it can split farther down and compramise the outer coolant seal area.

that much oil in that short of time tho? i drive the car MAYBE twice a week, and 2 weeks ago that overflow tank was just half full of coolant, no oil in sight

in any event tho i am checking the level on the dipstick tonite when i get back from work, i'll post back and let you guys know what i find

i was thinking an internal crack on an iron from the oil passages as well, they don't have to be restricted to being external.

to me it sounds like this motor is going to need to be torn apart to find the problem though, oil PSI is higher than coolant PSI especially since evans is no pressure so oil is much easier forced into the cooling system not vice versa.

also, engine oil is VERY bad for the cooling system hoses, you should consider replacing them after this is all sorted out otherwise they may eventually burst because the hoses will tend to soak up the oil like a sponge and become soft.

110psi will push a lot of oil out real fast.

this is true.... good point

ok, so say WORST case, if something internally was cracked, would my car be running as smooth as it is right now? wouldn't i be noticing it in performance/ hard starting/ smoke out the exhaust?

That blows Jay. I personally do not see how the turbo could be causing this. From my limited knowledge of rotary engines the freeze caps seems the most likely to me. What does the barf mixture smell like?

an engine with a cracked iron will still drive perfectly normal, it will just force oil either into the cooling system or out onto the ground.

Im having the same problem oil in the coolant not as much as this. I am having tons of smoke coming out the exhaust it used to just normally do a little till the car warmed up. Also there is a ticking coming from my turbo side of the engine, could be exhaust leak or could it be related to all of the above? Im about to tear apart the engine anyways and have an attempt at rebuilding it myself in a few weeks with the 3mm apex seals.

k, then i guess thats not far-fetched either, i really hope its not that tho obviously.....

ok lil update for those following this:

i went to the garage today to try to find some more stuff out. here are my findings.

1. the oil level is COMPLETELY full on the dipstick at operating temperature. ie: i'm missing no oil from the motor

2. i drained the overflow tank and saved it to be sent out for analysis. its got a redish tint to it in the bottle, and there is some sludge on the bottom of my overflow tank

3. i let the car warm up with the cap off of the filler neck, to watch things as the car warmed up. there was no sign of the discolored coolant, everything was the color evans is supposed to be (mostly clear), verified this when some spilled over

4. the car wasn't smoking at all, wasn't idling wierd, wasn't missing when i rev'd it with the throttle cable

so basically everything seems to be in working order as it should. once the car warmed up it sat at its normal 85 degrees, with the fans kicking on at 87. no wierd fluctuations or anything like that. i had someone sitting in the car watching the temps for me the whole time.

I still suspect the turbo is the culprit