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I used Royal Purple 10w-30 for almost a year, switched to 15w-40 one oil change ago because i wasn't getting the FSM recommended pressure. I'll probably do one more change at 15w-40 before spring/summer when i will definitely be switching up to 20-50 and getting an oil pan brace.
One thing i have noticed though is that i lose vacuum at start up. Once the engine is heated and i do the obligatory highway redline pull i pick up my lost vacuum and then some. |
Originally Posted by dhays
(Post 7761090)
For a novice such as myself, this question about what oil to use is just plain confusing. The issue of fuel dilution is the one that has me worried. I know that atkinsrotary recommends on their website the use of 5W-30 or 10W-30 in the winter and 20W-50 in the summer. Of course, Atkins is located just a few miles from me. Both our winters and summers are mild. Cold here is typically in the 30's and Hot is only in the 80's, and that is rare.
The very experienced rotary mechanic I had check out my FD used 10W-30 Quaker State. When I changed my oil again after taking out a Greddy Oil Filter relocation kit I used Penzoil 5W-30. Come springtime, I'm considering changing out to a synthetic. The question is what weight to use at that time. 20W-50 seems pretty thick when the typical temperatures are still going to be in the 60-70's even in the warm months. Thoughts? Btw, I read my previous post, and I'm not against 10w30 as it might appear. Just against it in high heat situations :) |
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
(Post 7761456)
Cost no object, I'd use a good synthetic 10w30 when the temps are below the 50s or so. Above that, I'd stick with a synth 20w50. Make sure to let the car full warm up before high revs/boosting, and keep an eye on your oil pressure. ie, if it's 55 degrees out and your stock oil px gauge is pegged at 120 psi while cruising on the highway at 3k rpms (car fully warmed up) then think about switching to the thinner 10w30.
Btw, I read my previous post, and I'm not against 10w30 as it might appear. Just against it in high heat situations :) I'll keep an eye out on my oil pressure as spring and summer approach. I should be due for another change this summer so I'll see what it looks like then. |
now im not talking about a rotary but when building old first gen small block chevyV8 especialy with a flat tapet cam they recomend breaking in with Shell rottella or other Diesl oil simply beacuse todays conventional oil has less aditives for protecion in it now i know mazda did not recomend synthetic oil for there rotary engine beacuse when usinng the cheaper ones ive been told they do not protect when they burn if the engine is new use conventional oil Heavy 10/40 10 /50 then it should not be a problem to switch to synthetic but a brand name Mobil 1 or royal purpul or Red line hope this helps
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Originally Posted by G-pro-tune
(Post 7762234)
now im not talking about a rotary but when building old first gen small block chevyV8 especialy with a flat tapet cam they recomend breaking in with Shell rottella or other Diesl oil simply beacuse todays conventional oil has less aditives for protecion in it now i know mazda did not recomend synthetic oil for there rotary engine beacuse when usinng the cheaper ones ive been told they do not protect when they burn if the engine is new use conventional oil Heavy 10/40 10 /50 then it should not be a problem to switch to synthetic but a brand name Mobil 1 or royal purpul or Red line hope this helps
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sorry i was in a hurry
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Amsoil 20w50 every 2000miles and 1oz. per gallon of Amsoil HP injector oil in the gas tank. So far so good.
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synthetic oil molecules are all the same size like ............ conventional oil has differnt size molecules like .,.,.,.,.,.,..,.....,,,,,..and also they have a tendency to stack up kind of like cholesterol dose in a clogged artery, this is y they coat the engine,, on initial start up protect better after the engine has been coated with oil then the better flow advantages of synthetic oil help keep things cool, also royal purpul has Moly in it Molybdenum a low friction material if u use this oil from the stat it dose not stick to metal well that moly is y you hear people claim cooler temps( low friction )more Hp( lower friction) is what dose it... now as far as protection among synthetic oil there are a lot of arguments and as far as im concerned about how people can go twise as long between oil chainges think of it as this, oil is also cleaning your engine as it moves threw it do you want that dirt to stay in there for like 4 ,6 ,8 thousand miles as far as synthetic,, my exp, with Mobil one is awesome! im sure Royal P is good too
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what i mean is start with regular oil then switch to synthetic
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im also talking about a brand new never ran engine
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Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
(Post 7749315)
Manny, I wouldnt break the motor on in synth. Use regular oil, then switch to synth after the breakin period.
I use Idemitsu oil, you can get it from rx7.com, it's on their website. It's not cheap, so daily driver guys should probably choose something else. |
Originally Posted by Kento
(Post 7761004)
The long Ferrarichat forum post's basic premise is that it's better to use 0W multigrade oils in cars with manufacturer recommendations of 5W or 10W. I would tend to view that as "dismissing the recommendations in the owner's manual"...
While there is a lot of good info in the ferrarichat forum gentleman's long post, he does gloss over the fact that motor oil and its applications to various engines is an extremely complicated subject, one that can't be covered with in a lengthy posting that tends to impress with tons of viscosity measurement results. (I also take issue with his assertion that the API SM grade oils are automatically superior to previous API grades-- the increased cam lifter wear that many classic hotrod builders were seeing with off-the-shelf API SL oils comes to mind-- but no reason to belabor this subject). There's no doubt that rotaries' fuel dilution is far greater than that encountered in piston engines', and piston engines don't have internal stationary gears (responsible for transferring power) that shear on the motor oil molecules in a way that cams/lifters can't approach. There's too many variables to draw conclusions based simply on some research made with regards to conventional piston engines. couple of questions. Do you feel that there is an adequate "thinner" (0w-5w) on the market that would still have the appropriate sheer characteristics to handle what a tracked FD would throw at it? (M1 0w-40?) Do you think that the decreased oil flow during startup from running a 20w oil is causing more damage than a fuel-dilluted 10w-40 would cause at high load? what oil do you run in your FD? |
Had mine rebuilt by Tripoint when I bought it. They recommend and I've been running 20/50 Redline. :icon_tup:
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Castrol GTX 20w50 all the way
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I like either Valvoline or Castrol dino oil in my FD, and it is 10W-30 for the winter and 20W-50 for the summer.
Every other engine I have gets either synthetic or synthetic blend Castrol or Valvoline or Mobil1. Personally, I don't think it is a good idea to use heavier weight dino oils in colder climes. I guess I can just imagine that molasses-like oil trying to feed thru those tiny oil injector lines and...failing. |
Originally Posted by Kento
(Post 7761004)
There's no doubt that rotaries' fuel dilution is far greater than that encountered in piston engines', and piston engines don't have internal stationary gears (responsible for transferring power) that shear on the motor oil molecules in a way that cams/lifters can't approach. There's too many variables to draw conclusions based simply on some research made with regards to conventional piston engines.
This stuff got my attention: know about it? http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...rue#Post893022 |
Interesting read Dave :icon_tup:
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definitely an interesting read. I like their break-in procedure:
Break-in was done aggressively from day one. I allowed the engine to come to full temperature and then performed almost-WOT throttle acceleration and deceleration runs in 2nd and 3rd gear, within the factory rpm guidelines, which still allowed the engine to produce nearly full torque. This was done to force maximum ring pressure in all directions. Once engine oil temperature raised by 15 F, I backed off and cruised on the highway in 4th, 5th, and 6th, until the engine cooled down. I continued to use this procedure during the 1500 mile break-in period. |
RX-7.com had recommended that I use Mobile 1 15w-50 on my FC when they tuned it. That was years ago though. I guess I will use 12w-50 on my FD. Have always used Mobile 1. No particular reason besides testimonials and a race I watched once at Pikes Peak when the radiator blew up, but the EVO kept going and finished the hill climb. He credited it to his Mobile 1.
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
(Post 7786514)
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Originally Posted by Smokey The Talon
(Post 7784123)
Do you feel that there is an adequate "thinner" (0w-5w) on the market that would still have the appropriate sheer characteristics to handle what a tracked FD would throw at it? (M1 0w-40?)
Originally Posted by Smokey The Talon
(Post 7784123)
Do you think that the decreased oil flow during startup from running a 20w oil is causing more damage than a fuel-dilluted 10w-40 would cause at high load?
Originally Posted by Smokey The Talon
(Post 7784123)
what oil do you run in your FD?
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
(Post 7786514)
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Originally Posted by Kento
(Post 7786960)
Motul 300V
Thanks for the replies Kent, I guess I was more curious as to the weight of the oil you used. You go for the full on "Le Mans" 20w-60? |
Originally Posted by GoodfellaFD3S
(Post 7749315)
Manny, I wouldnt break the motor on in synth. Use regular oil, then switch to synth after the breakin period.
I use Idemitsu oil, you can get it from rx7.com, it's on their website. It's not cheap, so daily driver guys should probably choose something else. |
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