weak spark how do you test the igniter
 

good connection from igniter to coils just very weak spark
tried several types of spark plugs but still just a weak spark
can any 1 shed some light on this p;eeeeez

Most likely a coil problem as I never have seen/heard of the ignitor going bad.
The leading coils do go bad.

The ignitor is nothing but a transitor switch.

the leading coils goes on the lower spark plugs? correct?

because i keep fouling the lower plug on the front rotor every month. im thinking the coil is weak. as soon as i replace that one plug the car rus normal again.

Yep. Leading = Lower, Trailing = Top thats how I always remember

thanks! i can remeber that!

i dont think its the coils because all the plugs have week spark
and i put a new leading coil on it 6 months ago
signal going into igniter is all good im going to check signal coming out of igniter tomara
and i will be testing the coils just in case

make sure to check the two 10mm bolts that hold the ignitor to the body because those are grounds. i took those off one day and forgot to put the bolts back and the car would not start. also check the that the bracket for the coils is bolted tight to the top of the engine, and also i believe theres one black wire that comes of the harness and grounds to the braket.

right all output tested in-place without taking anything off using an osciliscope
the outputs are all below 2volts i no that cant be right so got a jump lead and earthed the igniter same results so got a multimeter still got the same results
so removed the igniter and made my own system in my house
i no the pin outs
input to output
7 6
2 1
5 3

pin 4 is VCC and the casing is ground point

i estimated i need under 1.5volts for the input signal to triger the output
so joined lots of resisters i had in my box to get desired voltage
so i got it all up an running and still 2 volts so i think its the igniter

would sticking a paperclip into wires each of 6, 1, or 3 and measuring voltage to the casing ground with a digital multimeter while starting be a worthwhile test?

How many battery volts are usually required to start? I have 12.7 then when cranking down to 10.3.

trailing plugs are wet. bench tested coils, crank angles and continuity check from igniter to coils and ecu to ground pts. did no voltage tests yet.

checking continuity before voltage, with key on got 12v at terminals A & B on the rear trailing coil, it was easier to unplug.

slipped a paper clip into ignitor wire for rear trailing, wire slot #5 mentioned above got battery voltage, (#4 was 12v, terminal D in FSM) with key on.

while starting, didn't get any voltage at #3 br/b wire, got a flash up to 2 volts on #6 small green which is with the leadings, which are firing.

did I do enough troubleshooting to declare the ignitor bad?

whats the problem on your car? is it sparking at all ?

i found my igniter was fine after bench testing with coil

this proved the igniter was fine this test was done few years back

and this is to test signal to coil

thanks for the write up and video. I didn't do enough to verify that the ignitor wasn't working.

problem ended up being saturated fouled spark plugs (certainly on the trailing which were wet). usually one can wipe or blow compressed air on them to dry them out to use again.

Tested one of the trailings, saw the spark jump over an inch, then decided to use some of my spare plug sets. and it starts.

so, onto a boost problem, trying to get the stock ecu to give codes. wstrohm did a write up for codes suggesting to take the negative battery cable off for 30 seconds before gnd to ten, hope that works. I have no aws, egr, and the car stumbles through a WOT run, I'd think I should get codes unless the wiring changes done for pfc use or other electrical mods dont allow the ECU to throw codes.

What plugs are you using?

9's all way around. they fouled because an ISC wire broke.

Imitek, what gizzmos are you using to get your readings in the first video? somehow cotton eye joe tells me to get the party going. Is that a pc? what software and what hardware is needed for the test?

LOL

i used a laptop with a cheap USB Oscilloscope of ebay with a x10 probe this is good enough to test most applications on a 12 volt system, ABS sensors ECT you can get an atenuator attachment to read voltage upto 20000V if you wish to directly measure output coil voltage but i only was checking signal from igniter going to coil
2 Channel PC Digital Storage USB Oscilloscope Probe CD | eBay
and also have a bit of bread board (circuit board) made it easyer for me to trigger each coil