The only downside with the throttle body line is if you use a 1-wire temp sender that grounds through whatever it screws into. You can add a ground wire to the brass T and ground it, though.
This is a good option if you have the water pump housing off already and want to do it. The thermostat housing is still dumb any which way you look at it. Also, I'm just not keen on 1-wire temp sensors, that's just a lazy design. Dale |
Clean setup on the waterpump housing, but is there any noticeable reading difference between the 2 location?
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Originally Posted by DaleClark
(Post 11016781)
The only downside with the throttle body line is if you use a 1-wire temp sender that grounds through whatever it screws into. You can add a ground wire to the brass T and ground it, though.
This is a good option if you have the water pump housing off already and want to do it. The thermostat housing is still dumb any which way you look at it. Also, I'm just not keen on 1-wire temp sensors, that's just a lazy design. Dale
Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6
(Post 11016845)
Clean setup on the waterpump housing, but is there any noticeable reading difference between the 2 location?
http://i1126.photobucket.com/albums/...antdiagram.jpg |
From this diagram, it looks like the coolant flows in the upper drivers side of the engine, and out the lower passenger side. It appears that the coolant to the throttle body coolant line escapes the engine before being completely heated by the passenger side of the engine.
If I am seeing this correctly, this would explain why my TB coolant line sensor is always several degrees cooler then my PFC reading. |
Originally Posted by Scrub
(Post 11016674)
nice! Only problem with that is you have to remove the entire water pump housing but it makes for a cleaner install.
Originally Posted by chiefboon
(Post 11016707)
I'd like to bump this sentiment, installed the sensor as Dale recommends and cannot imagine installing otherwise! Just my two cents.
Originally Posted by DaleClark
(Post 11016781)
The only downside with the throttle body line is if you use a 1-wire temp sender that grounds through whatever it screws into. You can add a ground wire to the brass T and ground it, though.
This is a good option if you have the water pump housing off already and want to do it. The thermostat housing is still dumb any which way you look at it. Also, I'm just not keen on 1-wire temp sensors, that's just a lazy design. Dale
Originally Posted by ZE Power MX6
(Post 11016845)
Clean setup on the waterpump housing, but is there any noticeable reading difference between the 2 location?
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
(Post 11017305)
+1...on all points. And nice job Speedjunkie.
Originally Posted by adam c
(Post 11017489)
From this diagram, it looks like the coolant flows in the upper drivers side of the engine, and out the lower passenger side. It appears that the coolant to the throttle body coolant line escapes the engine before being completely heated by the passenger side of the engine.
If I am seeing this correctly, this would explain why my TB coolant line sensor is always several degrees cooler then my PFC reading. |
Originally Posted by adam c
(Post 11017489)
From this diagram, it looks like the coolant flows in the upper drivers side of the engine, and out the lower passenger side. It appears that the coolant to the throttle body coolant line escapes the engine before being completely heated by the passenger side of the engine.
If I am seeing this correctly, this would explain why my TB coolant line sensor is always several degrees cooler then my PFC reading. I bypassed the T-body some years back but still use the line for my gauge sensor. Your experience is opposite of mine. The gauge is consistently in complete agreement with the PFC. If anything the gauge (DEFI 'D' Series) reacts a hair quicker. |
Originally Posted by Sgtblue
(Post 11017806)
It flows to the throttle-body coolant line right after passing BOTH combustion chambers. It just doesn't pass through the exhaust side of the housings.
I bypassed the T-body some years back but still use the line for my gauge sensor. Your experience is opposite of mine. The gauge is consistently in complete agreement with the PFC. If anything the gauge (DEFI 'D' Series) reacts a hair quicker. Glad your temps correspond. Mine don't. The exhaust is the hottest portion of a rotary engine. It seems to me that the coolant would be heated even more on the exhaust side. Adam |
temp sender location
Since we are replacing our factory W/T gauge with something more accurate can I just use the location of the factory sending unit and screw in the new sending unit there?
Joe |
Depends on the thread pitch. I think the stock one is M10x1.0 and sensors tend to be 1/8NPT. But you can use this...
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=1832 |
Originally Posted by adam c
(Post 11017489)
From this diagram, it looks like the coolant flows in the upper drivers side of the engine, and out the lower passenger side. It appears that the coolant to the throttle body coolant line escapes the engine before being completely heated by the passenger side of the engine.
If I am seeing this correctly, this would explain why my TB coolant line sensor is always several degrees cooler then my PFC reading. |
Are we sure the exhaust side is hotter than the combustion side? I ask because I've always seen the modifications for cooling done on the plug side of the housings, not on the exhaust side. And after the combustion event, which side of the housing (referring to the diagram) has the most prolonged contact with the hot exhaust gases?
Intuitively I think it should be the exhaust side, and certainly it's last on the coolant flow, but.... |
Another factor is that the turbos are bolted to the exhaust side, which would tent to heat that side of the engine even more.
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Water Temp gauge
I have been reading this thread and no one mentions installing the new temp sender in the old temp sender location. Since we are not using the old gauge why isn't this the easy way to accomplish hooking up the new gauge?
Joe |
I'm still using my stock gauge as well. I don't look at it as much as the aftermarket one, but in case that one fails I can at least see something with the stock one, even though it's not great. That's why I ended up choosing not to put it there. I had thought about it though.
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i just bought the prosport rad hose tap for $25. Nice write up im too chicken to attempt this.
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