Vacuum line
 

I took off my UIM this morning to put on a vacuum line that had come off, and when I removed the little plastic tank in front of the UIM I noticed there was a place where it looks like a line was supposed to be and there's not one there, and I've been looking for where it might connect on the other end and can't find anything.

IIRC, that line is not used for std shift.

Hard to see in that picture but it could be the one for automatic cars only.

-Cliff

Oh, well if so, good deal. When I took the UIM off I also noticed a line hanging I hadn't noticed just before taking it off, so I'm a little confused on where a couple of them go, but it shouldn't be too hard. I'm a mechanic in the Air Force, guesswork is what I do, haha.

That was just a joke actually, I should be able to figure out where these lines go without too much difficulty. And this is practice for a couple weeks from now when I change all my vacuum lines and coolant hoses. Thanks guys.

Also...
 

This is the line that I'm unsure of where it goes. I don't remember seeing it when I took off the UIM and I don't remember taking it off anything. The black arrow is the hose I'm referring to, and the red arrow is where it connects on the UIM. Anybody?

And I'm assuming it doesn't matter if these two lines get mixed up, is it all to the same area inside the UIM? I didn't see which lines came off these but I have a pretty good idea, and one of them has a checkvalve.

I think that might be the line that goes to the mao sensor on the fire wall but I didnt do any checking. Just go to robrobinetts web site it has all the diagram's you will need.

Break any solonoids or tested any check valves yet... mine have all gone to shit.

I haven't tested anything. I'm probably going to get some new Viton check valves when I do the whole replacement and I'll do the tests then. Thanks guys, I'll check out Robinettes site too.

From the location and due to the fact that it has a check valve inline, as stated earlier, it looks to be the line running to the MAP sensor. You definately wanna make sure that one is hooked up.

Yeah I looked at the diagram on robrobinette.com and got it hooked up right. It's running like a champ, aside from the fact that I can't get it to idle at anything lower than about 840rpm. I had the idle adjustment screw and the throttle cable completely loose and it STILL wouldn't get down to 750. Thanks for all the help though guys.

Where is your TSO Airman?!?! Give me ten push ups!!!!

You need to refer to the FSM (factory service manual) to properly adjust the idle.

1. Warm up the car to operating temp.

2. Put a jumper between the TEN & GRD pins in the Dignostic box.
This disbles the ISC (idle speed control) Solenoid.

3. Then you adjust the air bypass screw on the bottom of the throttle body.

And yes, the line goes to the MAP sensor, as you figured out.

Check out my guide to removing the upper intake manifold - that will give you a few pointers -

http://www.clubrx.org/default.asp?id...ntent=63&mnu=5

BTW, the black thing in-line with the vacuum line to the MAP sensor is a filter, NOT a check valve.

And, yes, for the most part the nipples on the back and front side of the manifold go to the same place. I do like to use the correct nipple for the MAP sensor, though, but the other nipples go straight through to the same place. I just connect it in a logical fashion for the best fit for the vacuum lines.

Dale

Are you referring to Technical Orders? I don't even use them working on the equipment at work, why would I use them at home, HAHAHA. Just joking. I TRY to use them at work.

I think I have a copy of the FSM on my computer so I'll check it out, I didn't get a manual with the car though, I guess one of the previous owners lost it. That is great info though, thanks for the heads up.

Oh, and they're not allowed to drop us to do pushups, not in Basic anyway, haha. Which is another reason why I'm trying to go blue to green.

I haven't looked at your site yet cause I gotta get to bed to work another 12 tomorrow, but the two nipples I'm talking about are right next to each other, neither of which going to the MAP sensor, unless I read the diagram wrong, haha. I just noticed, I think your link is what I used, but I didn't have a printer at the time or a computer next to me, so I had to go off memory. And I think I did a pretty good job considering I usually can't remember shit. Thanks Dale.

Here's a pic of where those two hoses go. The one with the check-valve and the one right beside it (the two closest to the red arrow).

Thanks quicksilver, I'll keep that pic on hand.

this will help

^IMMENSELY!!! Thanks A LOT!!!! All this info is going in the personal archive, haha.

Alright, so I did this and it STILL won't adjust right. I let the car warm up for about 5 minutes, put a paper clip between TEN and GRD to jump them, and tried to adjust it. It still wouldn't drop below about 1400rpm, even with the throttle cable loose and the screw adjusted all the way out. So we turned the car off and started it again with the jumper still there, with the same results. Anyone have any suggestions?

To eliminate the ISC solenoid you can go one step further & just unplug the connector.

Double check that the air bypass screw is adjusted ALL THE WAY IN.

If you idle is still high (& the engine is warmed up to operating temp) I would manipulate the linkage at the wax rod ( on the back side of the throttle body) to see if the cold start linkage is hanging up & holding the throttle open.

It might need adjustment & has two adjustment screws. One adjusts the cold start rpm & the other adjusts the temperature steps to bring the idle down as the temperature increases.



Still to high? I would check the throttle position sensor voltage (at idle & WTO, there are two values for each)
Monitor the voltage & see that it rises & falls with no drop outs or peaks.

Finally I would suspect a vacuum leak. The sky the limit on where that could be. You can temporary plug all the nipples coming out of the UIM ( eliminating all the rats nest). Make sure the UIM to LIM gasket & throttle body gasket are in good condition.

That's all I can think of for now. Good luck.

^Thanks a lot for your help, I'm still not real clear on some of the components but I'll be at Deal's Gap this weekend with most of the rotorheads on the east coast so hopefully someone there can show me, and I'm taking my took kit so I'll be able to do it there, haha. And I'm thinking I have a boost leak since I'm only getting 5psi tops. Thanks again.