Turbo control solenoids and valve help
 

I'm planning to replicate Damian's dual boost controller setup, and I was digging around to find these stupid solenoids and the valve is, but every line that I follow just goes into some really dark spot towards the middle of the engine...so my question is...do I actually have to remove the UIM to get to these things? All I need to do there is bypass the solenoids for the wastegate and prespool control.

In a word, yes.

Buy a factory service manual, or look for a copy online. There are lots of useful links in the FAQ thread, it's one of the stickied posts in the top of the 3rd Gen section.

The wastegate and precontrol solenoids are mounted in front of the UIM. You do not need to remove the UIM to access them.

In fact to install the manual boost controllers you don't have to go near them. The boost controllers install all down at the actuators. Do this:
1) Remove the line from the compressor to the actuator. Install a new line with the boost controller spliced in the middle. Set controller to wide open.
2) Remove the other line on the actuator and install a vacuum cap, or cut it in half and jam a plug in the end with a zip-tie to ensure it doesn't pop free. If you use a vacuum cap you'll want to buy a premium rubber material cap (mcmaster-carr has them) because parts store caps will fail.
3) Adjust the controllers on the road. Done.

The leftover wg and pc solenoids will have no effect and can be removed at a later date "while you're in there".

Oh that makes sense. Okay so just to be sure, I do this right? (see attachment)

Yeah, that's it.

Thanks a bunch for the tip. I was looking on mcmaster carr but I couldn't figure out if I was looking for the right thing or not. And also what diameter would it be?

I got as far as this page:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#vacuum-tube-caps/=1itqkc
but the picture doesn't really convince me that it's what i'm looking for.

More like this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#6448k76/=1iwlki

3/16" is a pretty good fit.

I'm guessing I want the high temperature version as opposed to the chemical resistant version?

I don't think it matters, they are both far superior to the crappy neoprene rubber you'll get at the parts store. I tried them once and they suck.

I knew the parts store caps wouldn't last, but in just a few hundred miles, they cracked and leaked. If the leaks got much bigger they would have caused a loss of boost control and blown motor.