turbo actuator
 

Anyone know how to remove the actuator on the Y pipe??
I thought I could remove the 2 10mm bolts but I guess the flapper door is causing it hard to remove.

You'll need to disassemble the flapper. There are two phillips head screws that hold the shaft to the butterfly, and you'll need to get inside the pipe and remove them first.

Dave

Ahhh...that fuuckin sucks!
Are these known to go bad?? Reason why I'm asking is I'm having secondary boost problem so will change the turbo control solenoid and actautor.
When I rev the motor, the shaft goes in and out though

Perform a KOKO test. The actuator you're poking at is actually called the charge control actuator.

If you don't have a Mityvac kit now would be the perfect time to get one. You'll be able to test many things on the car without these elaborate procedures.

From:
http://www.fd3s.net/boost_test.html

93-95 RX-7
BEFORE AND AFTER SERVICE OPERATING INSPECTION

STEPS SHOULD BE DONE IN ORDER. FAILURE OF ANY STEP REQUIRES FURTHER
INSPECTION BEFORE CONTINUING.

THESE READINGS INDICATE NORMAL OPERATION
(Readings may vary with altitude and temperature)

1. CHECK FOR PCM CODES AND REPAIR AND CLEAR BEFORE ANY OTHER
PROCEDURE .

2. VERIFY ENGINE IS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE
- REMOVE DOUBLE THROTTLE VACUUM LINE AT ACTUATOR
- AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE NO VACUUM SHOULD BE PRESENT WITH
ENGINE IDLING.

3. CHECK ENGINE VACUUM AT IDLE
- REMOVE RUBBER CAP ON EXTENSION MANIFOLD
- INSTALL VACUUM/PRESSURE GAUGE ON EXTENSION MANIFOLD
- VACUUM READING SHOULD BE ABOVE 15" W/AC OFF

4. CHECK NO LOAD OPERATION Of TURBO
- BRIEFLY ACCELERATE ENGINE TO WOT IN NEUTRAL
+4 PSI SHOULD BE OBTAINED
- WATCH THE PRECONTROL ROD FOR MOVEMENT


5. CHECK VACUUM TANK'S STORAGE ABILITY W/ENGINE OFF
- PULL OFF VACUUM HOSE AT CHARGE RELIEF ACTUATOR
- SHOULD HEAR AIR ENTERING HOSE VACUUM
- START ENGINE - BRIEFLY ACCELERATE ENGINE TO WOT IN
NEUTRAL AGAIN
- ENGINE OFF - KOKO 6 TIMES
- WATCH CHARGE CONTROL ACTUATOR WORK EACH TIME
- WATCH TURBO CONTROL ACTUATOR WORK EACH TIME

6. CHECK PRESSURE TANK'S PRESSURE STORAGE ABILITY W/ENGINE OFF
- PULL OFF FRONT HOSE OF PRESSURE TANK
- SHOULD HEAR AIR LEAVING TANK (PRESSURE)

7. ROAD TEST WITH VACUUM/PRESSURE GAUGE INSTALLED
- DRIVE TO THIRD GEAR WITH NORMAL ACCELERATION
- ACCELERATE FROM 35 MPH AT WOT UNTIL PASSING 4500 RPM
- A SLIGHT AND SMOOTH INCREASE IN POWER SHOULD BE FELT AT
APPROXIMATELY 4500 RPM. THIS WILL BE ABOUT 65 MPH.

PRIMARY - GAUGE NEEDLE SHOULD BE ABOVE 10PSI UP TO 4500 RPM

SECONDARY - NEEDLE WILL DROP TO ABOUT 8.0 PSI JUST AFTER 4500
RPM
STARTS - NEEDLE WILL THEN BEGIN RISING TOWARDS MAXIMUM BOOST
DEPENDING ON LENGTH OF TIME THROTTLE IS HELD.
- RELEASE THROTTLE

WOT = wide open throttle
KOKO = Key On Key Off

REVISED FEBRUARY 11. 1996



Dave

Thanks!:icon_tup:

Oh, and yes I've heard of these going bad. Not as common as check valve failure or boost leaks, but it happens.

Sometimes the butterfly will get sticky and the spring force of the actuator won't push it open (or is it closed? whatever). Another issue is leakage at the diaphragm of the actuator.

Dave