Thoughts & Opinions: FD For Sale (Vid)
 

looks good for 227k miles

I am unsure if the motor was abused.. the owner has owned the car for 3 months apparently and in this video, he drives the car hard right from a cold start.

Didn't see the boost gauge move till he did a 3rd gear pull.
My 3rd Gen boost in all gears, from 1st all the way till 5th. I might have missed something but when you listen to the video, he goes thru 1st and 2nd with the boost gauge only hitting on ZERO...


L8R

I spoke to him and I asked for a WOT pull in 3rd, so that's probably it.

How is it cold start when the coolant needle is already on the white line??

The aftermarket gauge also looks like its on 100F or a bit past it.

The oil pressure gauge lights up at 3:19 in the video.

He boosts on a "cold engine".

And coolant gauge is above middle at end of video lol

He also seems very rough with his car. I hate people who make videos like that.

They open their door, get in like theres a fire and SLAMS the door shut. Turn the key, start the car and get moving right away. Like they are on crack or something. So jittery.

Either way, probably an abused car. I wouldnt buy it.

l

Vac seems low also. Also anyone who boosts on a cold motor is an idiot and shouldn't be driving. Looks like a disaster waiting to happen. I would shop around a little bit more and get one from someone who is more knowledgeable than this guy.

Actually, at 2:39 in the video after his first 3rd gear pull, when he starts to make the u turn, the stock temp gauge is already on the HOT side. The temp gauge on the a-pillar NEVER moves so it probably isn't connected..

wow i never noticed the dummy lights. thanks for all the input guys, i agree with all of your points. i came to the conclusion that it was an abused car a while back, but i wanted outside opinions.

that car is over heating. at the end of the video in the last gauge cluster shot the coolant needle is passed half way where it would normally sit.

And we all know what that means on a stock gauge lol.

that engine is toast!

(the temp sensor is right under the oil pressure sender in the aft part of the engine, not giving an accurate reading of what the temp really is. if that coolant temp gauge was accurately installed, than the sensor would be placed at the exit side of the coolant passage and would say "omfg, i am so fucked!".)

228,000 KM = 141,000 Miles - I have 141k miles on my car. The only original drivetrain parts are the rear diff, ABS pump, driveshaft, PPF and battery harness.

The car does indeed start with the gauge at cold but ends with the gauge slightly elevated. That car has some issues with the coolant system for it to get that hot that quickly.

Vacuum is low. My old motor (which is for sale btw) had ~14" of vacuum (-410 on the PFC) with a large street port and 19k miles at 850 RPM idle.

He's boosting over 12 PSI so I hope he has some fuel system upgrades and mods to support that much boost. Turbos seem to work fine.

As Quik said, the owner does seem to be a bit rough with the car - door slamming, boosting when cold, seems like he ran over some speed bumps at some point. I'd look at a different car unless the price can't be beat and you plan on fixing whatever might be wrong. The paint looks pretty shiny and its got some wheels so I'm thinking its not priced cheaply.

Also, it was only pulling 12 inches of vacuum. Motor needs a rebuild. If you can get the car for cheap enough (ie, with enough financial clearance for you to do a rebuild and fix the stuff that is probably damaged and worn out) then get it. otherwise, if he wants the money that a good running fd would cost, tell him he is looking for a sucker.

ouch the car is overheating alright, i have it paused on the vid at 4:19. if you purchase this FD you'll be spending some cash to undo the mistakes of the previous owner which will surely include an engine rebuild.

how much?

The car has ALOT of mods though. If its dirt cheap it may be worth parting out.

If you can buy it cheap enough to put a new motor in it then the rest of the car looks/sounds pretty solid. The rims looks like volkCE28's and they are the time-attack limited ones so those are worth a pretty penny. It really does not look "too" abused to me. Personally I do not boost until my oil pressure and water temp are to operating temp (and no one should) but there is nothing wrong with starting the car, letting it idle for a few moments and then driving normally with no boost. The car DOES boost in 2nd gear (twice after the u-turn) and the turbos sound like they are ok. But of coarse there are some things you can just never ever see or find out from a video. You need to be at the car to really check things out. If all installs of aftermarket parts look well done (not half-assed) and care was taken in putting the car together all it may need is a new engine.

With the stock temp gauge that high that short a time, it's toast or the beginning of the end. The temp gauge measures the temperature of the metal of the block, not the coolant. Once that metal temperature goes above mid-way, it means that you have localized boiling in the interface between the metal and the coolant.

Both of my 1st and 2nd motors had the gauge going above the middle and that marked the beginning of the end.