Speedworks

My car is driving me insane...


It's got a NEW rebuild engine, big streetport, OEM injectors, PFC and Datalogit, Trust 80mm downpipe, no emissions or solenoids, full non seq conversion. Double throttle and thermoway removed...


The engine is idling stable and upto 2k rpm it feels pretty normal and responsive. When the engine is revved stationary, it revs pretty much as it should.

When driving the engine revs very slow and starting at 3k rpm there is a tremble in the engine which continues to gu up with the rpms.

The engine is not responsive at all, revs go up very slow and in 4th and 5th gear it hardly goes over 4000rpm as it feels like the engine does not have the power to do so.


Boost is now at +-4psi for break in (done about 700miles now)wit the manual boost controller.

Last weekend I switched out the coils as well as the fuel rails.


Strange thing was that I found the rubber insulators going into the primary injectors holes to be crushed (the ones between the plastic dividers and injector). I replaced them with new ones and found them crushed again the day after....


Now I run the prim injectors only with the plastic dividers and it is just thesame. I got my NEW irons from Japan in 2007 so I don't know if I got updated irons (99spec) where the insulators might have been deleted??



Next thing on my list is Damians custom ground mod and TPS check


About the TPS: to check this, you need contacts 3F and 3G but can anyone point out which colors these are? or what pages the connector scheme is in the workshop manual?

thanks

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

You can use the PFC Commander to verify voltage of the TPS with it installed, look under sensor voltages (think in the etc menu) and watch VTA1 and VTA2 as you rotate it. One is narrow band and one is wide band, I posted up on this a few years back, I'll see if I can dig up the old info

Who rebuilt the motor?

Speedworks

Hy, I'll check that too. Do VTA1 and VTA2 stand for fully open and fully closed or do they both measure open en closed, but narrow and wide band?


I did the rebuild myself, with new housings and new irons from Japan (RHDjapan).


About the injectors and the insulator rings. I do use the plastic spacer between center plate and prim inj rail. Even then, with insulators in place, they stick out 3-4mm. When I torque them (25Nm like the workshop manual indicates) they go in, no problem. Just when I loosen everything up the insulators are crushed and torn. Even after one day and a short test drive.

I'm going to measure the depth of the injector holes on my old irons, if they are different from the 'newer' ones

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

As stated above, one is narrow and one is wide. as you rotate it you'll see the voltages change, verify they're within spec as per the FSM, closed/close to open/fully open.

When you built the motor did you verify all clearances, to include e-shaft endplay?

Speedworks

vta1 is reading 0.63 and VTA2 is at 1.38 at fully closed.

both are near 5 when fully open...

ObliqueFD

iTrader: (32)

VTA1 closed range 0.1 to 0.7. Fully open range 4.2 to 4.6.
VTA2 closed range 0.75 to 1.25. Fully open range 4.8 to 5.0.

Looks like you're a little bit high on VTA2.

Speedworks

I made a small adjustment and now they are within range


VTA1: 0.53
VTA2: 1.12

Did a test drive, but as expected, it hasn't solved anything.

It's a long shot, and again, I don't think it will be solution, but I'm still rnning the OEM cat without an airpump (only a couple of miles at low boost).

Could it be clogged up (due to dirt or getting too hot) and choke the engine?

Again, I don't think this is the issue as my turbo's (full non seq) are spooling pretty fast as I was used to when they were still sequential. Only boosting 0.250 -0.3 bar (3-4 psi) for safety.

I also checked the throttle body as I wanted to check if the 2 upper butterflies open OK. Those are fine as well..


My ign map is stock IGL and IGT is on a 3° split map in vac and ramping up to 10-15 for high boost.

So far I also experimented with thesame setup but using a zero split timing map from BDC and a 12° split timing map from a respected forum member.

There was little to no difference in performance or the described issue.

So I guess I'm back to checking vac lines. Other than that (and the OEM cat) I practically ran through everything I could find on this forum.

Just on a side note. When I installed the engine, a Spec 2.5 clutch was installed (OEM flywheel) together with a brand new gearbox and reinforced clutch line.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

You didn't answer my question about eshaft endplay

Have you verified you have spark on your leading coil?

Speedworks

Hah, Sorry about that. Yes I did check end play, several times (I use the DIY 4 DVD's for rebuilds as they indicate every bit of torque settings and 'play') and I did check it more than once.


I switched out all my coils last Saterday (I had a spare set) in order to rule out the possibility of having bad coils.