Testing charge relief valve
 

I'm looking for input/confirmation that I have a good CRV. Searched for previous posts and studied everything at http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...leshooting.htm

Here's how I've tested so far:[list=1][*]I applied shop air through a pressure regulator to the inlet port, left the vacuum connection open, and then gradually increased the applied air pressure. CRV began to leak @ about 3 PSI, and at higher pressures the leak rate increased.[*]Then using the same basic setup as above, I began to apply pressure to the CRV's vacuum port; the leakage rate reduces. If this 2nd pressure equals the pressure applied to the inlet port, there is no leakage. Tested up to 10 PSI, the limit of my test gauge.[*]Using Mityvac to apply vacuum to control port while attemtping to blow air through the main ports finds that my CRV cracks @ 2-3 in Hg and is fully open @ 6 in Hg.[/list=1]

My concern is that the Autosport article says that there should be no leakage @ 15 PSI even without applying pressure to the vacuum port. But my read of the CRV's control curcuit is that following transition, the CRV solenoid valve applies boost pressure from 2nd turbo Y-pipe to the CRV. The only reason I see for this is to help seal the CRV. Therefore, is Autosport in error on their testing procedure for the CRV, or is my CRV truely bad?

Any help or other suggestions would be appreciated.

Anyone?

I got the exact same results on mine in the same tests recently. So...I have the same question. Anyone want to chime in?

Tom

What kind of problems are you seeing (boost patterns) that has you looking at this? I have a problem I think is related with a low boost 4 - 5 - 10 but if I let off the gas While on the primary and hammer it again I can get 10 - 5 -10. I am about to start this same trouble shooting process and wanted to know if we are sharing symptoms.

Re: Testing charge relief valve
 

I have checked 4 different CRVs and all crack at ~3 in Hg and are fully open by just over 6 in Hg. I think autosportracetech must be wrong on that part of the test. I did not try the pressure test.

My CRV opens fully at 7"Hg. I know this for sure because I tested it and wrote down the result. Also, I'm pretty sure that mine didn't hold 15psi without pressure applied to the vacuum port. I'm not positive about that though since I was a dumbass and didn't record those results.

Some other results that I recorded and may be useful to you are here:

http://www.geocities.com/laracers_vr_r1/boost_plots

and here

http://www.geocities.com/laracers_vr..._problems.html

(Keep in mind that I'm at 7000ft above sea level.)

Good luck

There probably isn't a problem with your CRV. I haven't seen a stock CRV or ABV fail yet. Take your boost gauge, and "T" into the vacuum line going to the CRV. It should read vacuum untill 4,500 rpm, and boost after. If it doesn't, then "T" into the vacuum line coming off the rear of the Y-pipe. There should always be a little pressure in there at 3,000 rpm, and at least 10 psi after 4,500.

You could always switch your CRV and BOV and see what you get. They are almost identical in specs. The difference is the solenoid under the UIM controlling the CRV. They open fully at around 7inmg vacuum which is why I always say to filter them ...