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Synthetic Oil?
I know there have been about 2000 posts on the subject, but its about the synthetic oil. If i were to change over to a high quality synthetic, like royal purlpe or another high grade oil, what weight would you use? Like 20w50 still or Racing 9 (royal purple) or does anyone disagree with it all together. tell me what u think.
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Mazda says that synthetic oil is okay for Rotary's(now they do anyways). But I figure if I change my oil VERY frequently, what's the use of getting the good stuff? How many oil changes can you do with mineral vs. 1 synthetic?
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yah, i guess with no considerable advantage i shouldnt burn my money.
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I disagree, even though I haven't yet made up my mind what to do.
Yes, I will be changing frequently, but I think my engine deserves the best. I will probably run 1 quart Red-Line 10W30, 1 Quart Royal Purple 2-Cycle TCWIII, and Castrol GTX 10W30 for the rest. Given that my engine only has 7900 miles on it, I was told this wan't completely broken in for a rotary, so I shouldn't go to 20W50 yet. |
Originally posted by PVerdieck I disagree, even though I haven't yet made up my mind what to do. Yes, I will be changing frequently, but I think my engine deserves the best. I will probably run 1 quart Red-Line 10W30, 1 Quart Royal Purple 2-Cycle TCWIII, and Castrol GTX 10W30 for the rest. Given that my engine only has 7900 miles on it, I was told this wan't completely broken in for a rotary, so I shouldn't go to 20W50 yet. Your car should be WELL broken in. It should have been broken in about 5900 miles ago! |
I run a Castrol Syntec 5-50. it worth the extra $22 for the synth.
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7900 miles and your car isn't broken in yet? Your car should be WELL broken in. It should have been broken in about 5900 miles ago! I run a Castrol Syntec 5-50. it worth the extra $22 for the synth. I have also heard, from someone else who went to a race shop that they switched over from Syntec to Mobil 1. They used to use Syntec, then were rebuilding or modding an engine, and it was dirty as crap. |
I use Redline 40 -- spec 15w-40 ... seems to work well.
I change every 2000 miles, I also add Marvel Mystery Oil to teh gas at about 1/2 oz per Gal. :~) S |
I want to run Mobil 1 , but can't find the weight I want. I use MMO in everything. even my cargo bins. At least it's not penzoil....
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Mobile 1 is the poop (15w50 works for me)... but but if you dont have the money for the good s**t, just make sure you change it often either way that what is important.
Someone mentioned Marvel Mystery oil in the gas... I have also heard good things about mixing in two cycle oil in small amounts into your gas when you fill up for extra lubrication. |
From what someone said in another post, 2-Cycle oil is what Pettit sells as Protek-R.
Pettit says that the oil injected normally isn't enough. As soon as it gets in their, it gets washed away by the gasoline. Unleaded gasoline acts as a solvent, removing the oil. In addition, some gas manufacturers add detergents to their fuel. Pettit regarding synthetics... To use synthetics or not to use synthetics... After years and years of extensive race testing, we at PETTIT RACING highly recommend synthetic lubricants, expecially in the transmission and differential. We also recommend synthetic motor oil due to its higher shear strength and ability to withstand heat that deteriorates mineral-based oil. However, unlike the manufacturers who make synthetics, we do not recommend extended periods between oil changes. Synthetics, while better than mineral-based motor oils, become contaminated rather quickly in turbo rotaries, and should be changed at least every four to five throusand miles. As we recommend changing the oil when dirty, it is more cost-effective to run mineral-based motor oil and change it every 1500-2000 miles and use synthetics only in a transmission and differential. I have a 3rd generation RX-7. I believe Mazda strongly said no to synthetics based upon early synthetics. The rotary engine injects small amounts of oil in with the gas to lubricate the apex seals. Oil with a high ash content dirties up the engine when combusted. What is the combustability and ash content of your current engine oils. Thank you. The Red Line Oils work very well in the rotary engines we have used our oils both street and race in these engines from the beginning. The oil burns clean, it does not cause deposits on the rotor that could lock them or cause sticking of the apex seals. Thank you for your interest in Red Line Oil. |
Just think if you replace youre oil under 2K than expensive synthetics dont make sense.Your motor will only see fresh oil and since its being replaced so freqently the oil will never really break down.Pettit says they have never had a oil related failer using synthetics thats because the FD dosent have a lubrication problem so dino juice will work?The problem is the frickin o-rings, overheat,running lean this will kill wear down youre motor first synthetics are not going to prevent this so why spend the extra money? A upgraded better cooling system will make more of a differance in the long run than any oil.
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