still got idle issues
 

Guys ...need help its doing my swede in!!!!:reallymad


Idle jumps from 800 to 1000 whenever ir feels like....it will be fine and smooth for a bit then it would jump??!!!!.......changed the plugs and leads.. compression checked...ok...At a total loss!

when i switch on the lights it smooths out and doesn't jump as much.?

Bat in the boot....could it be an earth fault?.....somtimes it seems like the battery wants to die when I start it then it fires...like its holding back...strange!...only started a few weeks ago.

Could something be loose?

OH...not LIM gasket...got a metal one. and tried playing with the TPS screw........could a leak from the downpipe or BOV cause this?


Mystified!!!!
:rolleyes:

Do you have a pfc or aftermarket ecu? I had that with my pfc before it was tuned.

what you should do is to disconnect everything dealing with what could possibly be controlled by the computer and such to see if its a problem with your engine/ignition/fuel system first because if it is one of the following, you wont beable to catch it other wise.


dashpot
ISC
AWS
Wax rod assembly
fast idle screw
airpump solenoid

Also, what kinda exhast did you have? if you got the stock system, it might be clogging up
same thing with the injectors

as far as the grounding is concerned, it could be, jus get some good 4 gauge wire and start grounding things, remember to send a few leads from the battry ground to the chassies

Broken...I have a PFC..only tuned on the road not on the dyno......and running pretty rich!!! Are these symptoms familiar?

wait, how did you tune it? with a true wideband right? if not you could have easily popped your engine...

yep with a wideband.:p:

skunks,

could you give me an idea where the things you said to disconnect are.

HELP

for starters...swap out your PFC for the stock ecu...of course you are only checking to see if your idle problem is related to the PFC....don't drive the car with the stock ecu, just let the car idle...of course the stock ecu will have to go through its learning cycle before the idle smooths out...if the idle fluctuations still exist then the problem is engine related....you can also use your PFC to see if some of the solenoids are receiving signals....in addtion to checking the devices Skunks mentions above...you can use carb cleaner to spray around the uim, throttle body,lim and all the vacuum lines to check for vacuum leaks....good luck

it sounds like the electrical load settings need to be adjusted. also the maps blocks around where the the car will idle correctly need to be trimmed.

sorry i did not see thsi post again till ust now so i did not think you were havnig any more problems (next time send pm)

in anycase, nearly all of this stuff is on the UIM which you can take of easily (only 5 bolts which are ontop fo the manifold as well as 2 eletricial connects and 8 vaccum lines are holding it on, lable everything you disconnect and youll be fine)

dashpot: this is under the throttle stop, it kinda lookslike a mushrooms or a round dark plastic thing about 1-2 inches in diameter with a white little marshmellow thing sticking out of the end of it


ISC: info on F49,F81 and F83 of shop manual

AWS: on intake elbow, the biggest hose on there, just take it off and cap both ends


Wax rod assembly: you can check out pics here http://www.robrobinette.com/throttle_body_coolant.htm its on the throttle body

fast idle screw: you can check out pics here http://www.robrobinette.com/throttle_body_coolant.htm its on the throttle body

airpump solenoid: if you got a mp, just disconnect it

oh yeah, why not check your tps via http://www.robrobinette.com/tps_adj.htm

good luck man