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Good deal. i had a 99 spec platic for the gauges.
now with the wiring, how are you going to hook up you tach signal?
Haven’t decided yet. My car has a MSD 6A that has a tach adapter output. Thinking about buying the adapter and wiring into it. Other posts I have read say to use the trailing ignition wire.
I agree! Wish I would of gone with a white needle on my tach. I feel like the red will be hard to see on mine. I requested a black needle, but speedhut wouldn’t do it. Thought about painting it black but it will void the warranty.
Knowing myself, i would paint the nidle in black,. I would make sure it works after wired up. I think it will be difficult to see red nidle on red dial, at least for me.
Hey XxboostinxX, have you done your gauge calibration/programing? I follow the instruction and came out perfect. The tach reads exactly what the pfc displays. Im so happy to have tach and speedo...
Hey XxboostinxX, have you done your gauge calibration/programing? I follow the instruction and came out perfect. The tach reads exactly what the pfc displays. Im so happy to have tach and speedo...
how did you do it? What source did you use for the tach?
I used the yellow and blue from the harness. That is the signal coming from my PFC and i used the resistor provided. I got the power from the cigarette lighter.
Hey XxboostinxX, have you done your gauge calibration/programing? I follow the instruction and came out perfect. The tach reads exactly what the pfc displays. Im so happy to have tach and speedo...
I got my UPS tracking number today. I'm going to be so happy to have tach and speedo too
I found this on another forum. Perhaps it really is as simple as getting the 12v+ for the Speedhut dimmer switch from the 12v+ side of the dimmer switch? Then, adjust maximum brightness one time for the Speedhut gauges and then use factory from then on. At least, that is how I am interpreting it. Hooray! I can contribute my lessons learned to this thread if that’s ok.
Absolutely! My only complaint is that the combo GPS Speedo/Fuel gauge is not available with a cruise output. So, I am having to use a Dakota Digital unit to output the square wave for cruise control (or one of those transmission speed sensor converters). Oh, and I am less worried about brightness being too high since these have an extra layer of silver over the white, with red back-lighting. Should allow for the wiring method mentioned above without fear of under-powering the inverter from the pulsed ground output through the factory dimmer switch.
All finished up and really happy with how they turned out. Definitely tough to see the needle on the tach when illuminated. Might just paint it black and call it a day. Now I just need to replace that steering wheel next.
Originally Posted by Red94fd
Hey XxboostinxX, have you done your gauge calibration/programing? I follow the instruction and came out perfect. The tach reads exactly what the pfc displays. Im so happy to have tach and speedo...
I did and everything turned out great. Took me a little time with the Tach. Turns out it was reading incorrectly from the trailing coil so I swapped it to the leading and everything is correct now. Not sure if my fuel gauge is correct at the moment.
Originally Posted by jaaf
how did you do it? What source did you use for the tach?
Use the positive wire from the leading coil pack. It is actually a bolt holding the wire down and you can tap into it.
They look nice, and i can actually see the red numbers. Just paint that needle and done, it will look bad ***. I pulled my fuel pump hanger out and i calibrated that was. I think its reading fine.
They look nice,. Yes, the gauge has to be wired, then follow the directions for empty and full position pograming. There is a video in youtube from speedhunt guys.
Quick question: did you just leave the gap between the factory lens and the black support piece? I mounted the gauge buckets in the same way... but the lense will not sit down all the way. I am considering a different methods where the gauge bucket is mounted to the clear lens piece... but that would mean a much more significant level of fabrication. I already have to repair or trash this lens due to a slightly errant drill bit, so I may experiment.
It shouldnt be that big of a gap, if you drilled and aligned the small studs of the speedhunt gauge correctly. Post a picture of the front. Did you use the speedhunt vessel?
I found the area of interference where the edge of a gauge bucket was not allowing the lens to sit as low as it could. I have clearanced it and it sits better. However, I still have a gap that is roughly equal to the thickness of the lip of the speedhut gauge bucket. Is this what you ended up with? I do not see any way, shy of something much more custom, to get it any better. the clear lens now sit flush to the 4.5" and 4" gauge bucket edge.
03-31-18, 03:38 PM
