spark plug installation
 

okay folks, I've done the searching on this forum, and other websites, including Steve and Rob's site. I am planning on changing my plugs... they have about 30k on them. I've read the how-to's, and most of them explain how to do it from the top (remove intake elbow, throttle body, etc.). The service manual isn't really a big help... But anyways, I also read somewhere that it's easier to do from the bottom? If so, do I need to remove any components to get to all 4? And with a DP, catback, and KN filter, can I just stick to 7's and 9's? What brand?

thanks.

heres what i got that makes this easy
21mm deep socket
Wobble extension for your socket wrench
i do mine from the top without taking anything off

and just get the stock ones 7s and 9's you can order them from rx7store.net

you can also get them at autozone. i put all 9s on mine.

if you put the car up on ramps and slide inder there on the drivers side you can see them and although its cramped you can do it pretty easily. just make sure you only do 2 at a time, so you can manage which wire goes to which plug, easier.
i just started doing my own, and once you have done it a few times, its easy to do from the top without having to take anything off, because you dont have to see what you're doing.

I think that its much easier to go from underneath. But to each his own.

All I can say is be careful not to cross thread the plugs. Just keep that in the back of your mind while doing this.

You don't need directions to change your plugs. They're on the driver's side of the motor, thats all you need to know. Pull and replace one at a time and you will be fine. Nothing needs to be removed to change them.

Aren't you supposed to keep the leading and training plugs in the right place? :)

Please replace next set sooner ;)

seriously there is a huge hole you go through from the bottom it is easy.

He's right....but I changed mine from the top pretty easy...But it was also when I have my UIM/TB/Elbow off too :D

ok thats enough....im pretty this guy has every possible way now to change his plugs

thanks guys... yes, I think I know what to do now... I'll just do it from the bottom since that's what folks say is the easiest. Thanks for all the tips. I from you all that Autozone and RX7store.net, and where else you all recommend to get them from? How about brands?

Best to just go with NGKs. The coppers are cheaper, and if you change them every 10K, which is a good interval, they are more cost efficient than the platinums.

Standard/Stock plugs are BUR9EQ and BUR7EQ. If there is a P at then end then they are platinums. The 7s are the leading and the 9s are the trailing. Most people with mods run all trailing/9s. If you aren't going to run all the same, then be sure to put them in correctly. Simplest way to remember is that Trailing = top, Leading = lower. Plus you should see a T or L near the spark hole. Always use anti-seize. Do not overtighten. A little past hand tight is fine. Do them one at a time so you don't get confused with what wire goes where. Crossing the wires can be catastrophic.

so the 7's go on the bottom 2 holes and 9's are on the top 2 holes?
what is anti-seize and how do i use it

It's a silvery-colored paste you can find at any decent auto parts store. You simply put a dab on your finger, and run it along the plug threads so that a visible amount of anti-seize is in most of the threads. Then just install the plug with the correct torque.

:)

One of the things with anti-seize is that once on your hands it tends to get on everything - the car body, your clothes, the wrench you use so that it coats your hands again the next time you use it, etc.....

Dave

so the plugs go in like this


..................................... head light)..........9........9...............firewall. .....driverseat
.................................................. ............. 7........7........................................ ........

is that correct?

Yep.
True. I usually make sure to wipe off the finger I used to apply the anti-seize with a rag before continuing work. And why I said, "a dab on your finger" instead of "a liberal dollop on your palm"... :)

how often do spark plugs seize in an aluminum housing?

I use the shit and hate...but really, I change plugs every 10-15k

:icon_tup: It's keeps the threads from "seizing" when it's time to change them again. Inexpensive and NOT using it can cause serious problems. Just be sure not to get any on the electrode area of the plugs.
+1 vote from the bottom. Much easier IMO.

Is there a picture anywhere showing which lead goes where from the dizzy just in case they get mixed up?

IMO it is only easy to do from the bottom if you have it up in the air -ie on a lift. I hate laying on my back trying to fiddle under any car. If you do it from the top cover the fender and put a pair of gloves on. The plastic wire ties can cut your hands up - many sharp edges.

Simple fix to this would be to just do one plug at a time. Aka, pull the wire, take out the plug, replace the plug, put wire back on. Next plug, do the same. This way there is really no worry what so ever of mixing and matching. It might take an extra 5 minutes, but it's pretty much idiot proof ^_^

I do mine on a frame lift, so +1 from the bottom.

Or just do one rotor at a time because the trailing wires don't reach the leading plugs, at least the stock ones don't.