solution for old/broken door panels
 

does anyone know of a solution (aftermarket or OEM) to replace the stock door panels without using flat racecar style panels?

I've been driving FDs for the last 10+ years, and it seems like the market is finally at the point where everything used has at least one or two parts broken, and the demand for even those used broken parts can bring 500+$ on this forum. for example: the two pins that hold the top of the door panel tight to the window - I have never seen a used door panel with these in tact.

I know these parts are extra curvy and difficult to replicate, but is there any company or person that remakes these door panels? I honestly wouldn't mind some of the carbon fiber panels available on ebay, but I don't need carbon fiber (i'd prefer molded and textured to match my dash) so i'd be paying that 700$+ for them and then just covering them in textured leather or something that matches my dash and other interior parts.

I've had a similar thought about the door plastics which are also NLA from mazda, but at least there are aftermarket options for those. even those, though, have bad fit/finish quality, from what I've seen.


is anyone out there?

Not that I've seen. It's going to be a complicated enough part that it won't be easy to make.

The interior plastics is a real bummer, the stock parts are so crappy and you can't buy them new any more.

Dale

I enjoy mine, just needs the plastic cup around the door handle which was like 60 bucks. Can be a real hit or miss with getting them in not damaged.

Esh

I think you just have to get creative. As long as the basic structure is fairly intact, you can do some resin and fiberglass work on the inside of it, build up reinforcement points, add/improve mounting posts and brackets, etc.
I know my passenger door panel looks stock from the outside, but INSIDE it is a mix of 'glass and metal and wooden brackets and posts (popsicle sticks work wonders!) that have made the original flimsy-ass piece robust. Yes, I even allow passengers to tug on the post to close the door, lol!

I would find a pair of door panels that look good on the outside and fashion mounts for the studs and clips out of JB Weld or a similar epoxy putty.

I had to end up repairing my FC center console this way after giving too many fat people (like me) rides when I race.

It ended up working great and was finally sturdier than new.

Like bajaman says, you can't see the inside- go crazy with it.

Black or Tan? I have both and can check to see if they are in good condition.

I've always been curious on fit/finish of the CF door panels that are being sold. Would be a shame if they were super flexy or turned the FD into even more of a rattle trap.

i got a pair of door pull cups im getting rid of, passenger side is in great shape, no cracks or broken pieces.
driver side has one area that is broken but was jolding just fine and solid whenni had it in.

sorry, didnt mean to hijack.
one of the solutions is epoxying in some threaded rods into the plastics instead of the coarse threaded factory screws that hold all the plastics together. You can then use a washer ( or fender washer) and wing nut to hold everything in place.

pics below are an example of what I did on the center console piece. Ill snap some pics of the door panel when i have it off tomorrow

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ad2ac5fed4.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2592581db5.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2af98d1b02.jpg

well I hope with 3D printing getting faster, cheaper and higher "resolution" printing along with 3D scanning the ability to make NLA parts will be a godsend. Fingers crossed...until then, glue, popcicle sticks, and various other repair method will be our option next to the CF and FG replicas.

:lol::icon_tup:

I just did a bunch of very mcguiver style repairs on my interior plastics. Pro tip:blush:: drywall anchors and 4mm? studs/cut off bolts and a nut work to replace the discontinued pieces that hold the top of the door trim on.
Ive gone through my share of epoxy to get my interior back to working order so far.

don't forget my old thread I posted a number of years ago:icon_tup::
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...w-pics-828143/

i need a black driver door panel.

i also need the plastic frame piece that houses the window switch and mirror switch.

good thread!
i came across another thread where a guy showed ABS plastic cement and had great results. i bought a can of that off of amazon (i think they have it at lowes and home depot too) and it worked great for my passenger door panel.



i am just sick of all this repair.

it would be so nice to just snap on a new door panel (like the CF panel above) and have all the mounts line up and mount correctly.

Yeah...you know, if you have an old '60s or '70s Chevelle or Rustang you can get ANYTHING for them, interior...exterior...every single panel, clip, switch, bracket, wire harness, hose...everything.


Not so with our cars.

Yes, and everyone has those cars.

That is the trade-off with a rare car like the FD, smaller market for aftermarket parts.

I have the passenger side door panel off, and was working at McGivering a fix to get the long missing pull handle back in place.

The bottom protruding plastic tab that attaches to the metal bracket seems to have yielded to epoxy and metal reinforcements.

I have a question about the top of the pull handle. When new, was the plastic continuous from the handle to the plastic structure just above it that houses the window switch? Or did the pull handle depend completely on the bottom structure? McGivering the top is still straining the imagination.

I broke one of my pins off 10 years ago. To repair it I bought a 1/8" ABS rod from McMaster Carr, machined it down to the proper diameter (you could do the same thing chucking it up in a drill and using a strip of sand paper). I then embedded it into the door panel with a big old glop of epoxy. It has been there ever since surviving numerous door panel removals.

Handle is back in place. How durable the fix is will be seen. Metal reinforced and epoxied the plastic tab that connects with the metal channel. Rebuilt the plastic screw rod that holds down the tail of the pull assembly. Bought and installed two machine screws in the bottom of the pull handle that apparently had never been there from the factory. Dabbed some epoxy into the gap at the back of the top of the pull handle. Feels firm. Looks good