SMIC ducting? Does mine look bad?
05-14-18, 01:37 PM
#1
SMIC ducting? Does mine look bad?
So here is the ducting on my SMIC, but I am still getting crazy high IATs (like 60c and up)
Is there anything I can do to improve this set up? I have a 99 spec bumper and I will go vmount later on when I mount my single, but for now I just want the car to be track-able for the next couple of months. I'll be wrapping piping and the SMIC with some DEI gold foil.
Is there anything I can do to improve this set up? I have a 99 spec bumper and I will go vmount later on when I mount my single, but for now I just want the car to be track-able for the next couple of months. I'll be wrapping piping and the SMIC with some DEI gold foil.
05-14-18, 01:53 PM
#2
Use duct tape to cover the open battery tray vent.
But, the stock duct is not taking full advantage of the custom IC core. The pettit medium duct is commonly trimmed to fit custom SMICs similar to yours. Or you could trim and rework your existing duct with fiberglass or sheet metal. Or, you could fab your own duct.
But, the stock duct is not taking full advantage of the custom IC core. The pettit medium duct is commonly trimmed to fit custom SMICs similar to yours. Or you could trim and rework your existing duct with fiberglass or sheet metal. Or, you could fab your own duct.
05-14-18, 02:31 PM
#4
So here is the ducting on my SMIC, but I am still getting crazy high IATs (like 60c and up)
Is there anything I can do to improve this set up? I have a 99 spec bumper and I will go vmount later on when I mount my single, but for now I just want the car to be track-able for the next couple of months. I'll be wrapping piping and the SMIC with some DEI gold foil.
Is there anything I can do to improve this set up? I have a 99 spec bumper and I will go vmount later on when I mount my single, but for now I just want the car to be track-able for the next couple of months. I'll be wrapping piping and the SMIC with some DEI gold foil.
Describe the conditions that you are seeing the high AITs? At what temp do you start at? How many times do you floor it before it goes into the high 60's, meaning are you constantly beating on it or is it after a couple of WOTs? What is the ambient air temperature?
I'm currently converting to a Vmount but my previous set up was a pettit style large race SMIC with a duct. My AIT's hovered around the mid 30's and after a few WOT runs I'd be in the mid 40's with an ambient air temp of mid 70's. Not too bad. I've been meaning to put it up for sale on here so some else can enjoy it... Gotta get around to it though lol
05-14-18, 04:11 PM
#5
Describe the conditions that you are seeing the high AITs? At what temp do you start at? How many times do you floor it before it goes into the high 60's, meaning are you constantly beating on it or is it after a couple of WOTs? What is the ambient air temperature?
I'm currently converting to a Vmount but my previous set up was a pettit style large race SMIC with a duct. My AIT's hovered around the mid 30's and after a few WOT runs I'd be in the mid 40's with an ambient air temp of mid 70's. Not too bad. I've been meaning to put it up for sale on here so some else can enjoy it... Gotta get around to it though lol
I'm currently converting to a Vmount but my previous set up was a pettit style large race SMIC with a duct. My AIT's hovered around the mid 30's and after a few WOT runs I'd be in the mid 40's with an ambient air temp of mid 70's. Not too bad. I've been meaning to put it up for sale on here so some else can enjoy it... Gotta get around to it though lol
Just driving around say on the freeway I can keep the temps in the 40s, at big willow it was like one or two laps before it heated up to 50s, and then sitting in traffic and such it gets up to the 60s. ambient also around 75-85F during these days. I'm also going to mount a feed style vented hood.
05-14-18, 06:10 PM
#6
Curious? What smic is that and does your ducting cover its entire face?
If not, it’s easier to fab one up that fits completely with card board and take it to a machine shop to render an aluminum finished piece. Use the dei tape you talked about. Also look at extending the stock scoop at the mouth area. (Only if you have an upgraded rad imo.)I went through a similar experience recently with a greedy smic. Pay for the fabricated unit. It’s much cheaper and better than anything we can do. Look up my posts. It may help. Wish you the best.
05-14-18, 06:22 PM
#7
Just driving around say on the freeway I can keep the temps in the 40s, at big willow it was like one or two laps before it heated up to 50s, and then sitting in traffic and such it gets up to the 60s. ambient also around 75-85F during these days. I'm also going to mount a feed style vented hood.
Last edited by Montego; 05-14-18 at 06:33 PM.
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05-14-18, 06:54 PM
#8
I forgot who said this, but its best for smic FD to stay on the streets and with relaxed driving style. Few wot here and there is ok, once you go on the track where you constantly working the twins... it gets hot very fast and stays hot. Doesn't help that our track atmosphere in CA is just HOT in general.
05-14-18, 07:38 PM
#12
Curious? What smic is that and does your ducting cover its entire face?
If not, it’s easier to fab one up that fits completely with card board and take it to a machine shop to render an aluminum finished piece. Use the dei tape you talked about. Also look at extending the stock scoop at the mouth area. (Only if you have an upgraded rad imo.)I went through a similar experience recently with a greedy smic. Pay for the fabricated unit. It’s much cheaper and better than anything we can do. Look up my posts. It may help. Wish you the best.
05-14-18, 08:27 PM
#14
^ what he said. Just the duct. To seal the parts that may have holes or after you plug the large holes with a thin sheet of metal. And rivets.
Why not just get a real smic? Seems you are relying on a half measure from the previous owner. You can’t be sure it even flows right. Get a good aftermarket smic and duct it properly. No open face. Take a mock up to a machine shop. Should be like $60 bucks. Just my .02 cents.
05-14-18, 08:39 PM
#15
Junior Member
Interesting topic. I recently went for a canyon drive after some modifications. My car was running a Blitz SMIC, fluidyne rad, single stock oil cooler, and Adam’s airbox at 15psi boost before and now it has a GReddy VMIC kit and Setrab dual 25-row oil cooler with 12psi boost.
With the current setup, I still have IAT beyond 63°C after driving uphill using mostly third gear 4000~6000 RPM. Water temp around 90 before engine cut. It was on a particularly hot day (over 90°F) and the road had some large elevation. It’s my concern that having air filters in the hot engine bay and aluminum (not ideal for heat insulation but good for sustaining stress of high boost) IC pipings causes higher IAT. (My IAT sensor reacts slowly too.) It’s particularly tricky because I am running a zenki (pre99) bumper with small frontal area and factory hood. I assume the VMIC + large oil cooler setup makes more sense on a more modified car that provides adequate airflow. (Not a fan of any aftermarket front bumper or hood though...) Of course, many on the forum run without those just fine. Unfortunately I don’t have IAT obtained under the same driving situation pre-VMIC to compare. I would appreciate some advice and please point out if I have some misconceptions.
Ryan
With the current setup, I still have IAT beyond 63°C after driving uphill using mostly third gear 4000~6000 RPM. Water temp around 90 before engine cut. It was on a particularly hot day (over 90°F) and the road had some large elevation. It’s my concern that having air filters in the hot engine bay and aluminum (not ideal for heat insulation but good for sustaining stress of high boost) IC pipings causes higher IAT. (My IAT sensor reacts slowly too.) It’s particularly tricky because I am running a zenki (pre99) bumper with small frontal area and factory hood. I assume the VMIC + large oil cooler setup makes more sense on a more modified car that provides adequate airflow. (Not a fan of any aftermarket front bumper or hood though...) Of course, many on the forum run without those just fine. Unfortunately I don’t have IAT obtained under the same driving situation pre-VMIC to compare. I would appreciate some advice and please point out if I have some misconceptions.
Ryan
05-14-18, 09:09 PM
#16
Interesting topic. I recently went for a canyon drive after some modifications. My car was running a Blitz SMIC, fluidyne rad, single stock oil cooler, and Adam’s airbox at 15psi boost before and now it has a GReddy VMIC kit and Setrab dual 25-row oil cooler with 12psi boost.
With the current setup, I still have IAT beyond 63°C after driving uphill using mostly third gear 4000~6000 RPM. Water temp around 90 before engine cut. It was on a particularly hot day (over 90°F) and the road had some large elevation. It’s my concern that having air filters in the hot engine bay and aluminum (not ideal for heat insulation but good for sustaining stress of high boost) IC pipings causes higher IAT. (My IAT sensor reacts slowly too.) It’s particularly tricky because I am running a zenki (pre99) bumper with small frontal area and factory hood. I assume the VMIC + large oil cooler setup makes more sense on a more modified car that provides adequate airflow. (Not a fan of any aftermarket front bumper or hood though...) Of course, many on the forum run without those just fine. Unfortunately I don’t have IAT obtained under the same driving situation pre-VMIC to compare. I would appreciate some advice and please point out if I have some misconceptions.
Ryan
With the current setup, I still have IAT beyond 63°C after driving uphill using mostly third gear 4000~6000 RPM. Water temp around 90 before engine cut. It was on a particularly hot day (over 90°F) and the road had some large elevation. It’s my concern that having air filters in the hot engine bay and aluminum (not ideal for heat insulation but good for sustaining stress of high boost) IC pipings causes higher IAT. (My IAT sensor reacts slowly too.) It’s particularly tricky because I am running a zenki (pre99) bumper with small frontal area and factory hood. I assume the VMIC + large oil cooler setup makes more sense on a more modified car that provides adequate airflow. (Not a fan of any aftermarket front bumper or hood though...) Of course, many on the forum run without those just fine. Unfortunately I don’t have IAT obtained under the same driving situation pre-VMIC to compare. I would appreciate some advice and please point out if I have some misconceptions.
Ryan
Well I have no vmic experience but I was under the impression vmic was the best setup. However with with 60s in intake temps I’m not sure what to say. I am seeing 40s to 55s max on a greedy smic at 12lbs boost pushed hard. Heat soak sucks. But hey we haven’t hit 90s yet. 70s/80s max northeast.
05-14-18, 09:40 PM
#17
Junior Member
Here is the engine bay picture. I believe the resultant high IAT is due to the underflow IC, aluminum piping, and air filters. What's more, A/C condenser is kept so there is even less direct airflow to the IC... The stock undertray blocks the radiator fan from blowing downwards, potentially reducing cooling efficiency. However on a cool day after 3 dyno pulls I get 45℃ IAT. With that being said, I don't think a right-off-shelf VMIC will be an optimum solution that solves all problems immediately. It's still best to design the car as a system, just from my experience.
05-15-18, 12:32 AM
#19
Junior Member
Exactly what I am thinking 
Seeing if I can fabricate a heat shield of some kind. Also wondering if I need to replace/relocate the IAT sensor in case of heat soak.
Adam, I will share some photos of my canyon run with you later. The road was fantastic
Seeing if I can fabricate a heat shield of some kind. Also wondering if I need to replace/relocate the IAT sensor in case of heat soak.Adam, I will share some photos of my canyon run with you later. The road was fantastic
05-15-18, 04:00 AM
#21
Ok guys I found the problem. While wrapping my intercooler with the DEI gold, at the very end I notice something deep in the end tank...
There's a ******* kids underwear stuffed in the hot side of the smic! This has caused me a ton of issues with tuning, boost control, IAT issues, etc. Also explains why some days the car is fast as hell and some days where it doesn't want to move.
Check your intercoolers guys...and I'll be giving the previous owner an interesting call tomorrow...
There's a ******* kids underwear stuffed in the hot side of the smic! This has caused me a ton of issues with tuning, boost control, IAT issues, etc. Also explains why some days the car is fast as hell and some days where it doesn't want to move.
Check your intercoolers guys...and I'll be giving the previous owner an interesting call tomorrow...
05-15-18, 05:12 AM
#22
Whoa! Are you for real? How long have you had the car? I’m surprised you haven’t blown the engine.
Similar note. When replacing my radiator I found a wrench socket in my rad fan shroud that had dislodged one fan and was slowly cutting into the back of my rad fins. Also found a bolt bolt in my intake cover.
Moral of the story... take a good look at your engine bay after you buy.
Glad you found it sooner than later.
Similar note. When replacing my radiator I found a wrench socket in my rad fan shroud that had dislodged one fan and was slowly cutting into the back of my rad fins. Also found a bolt bolt in my intake cover.
Moral of the story... take a good look at your engine bay after you buy.
Glad you found it sooner than later.
05-15-18, 05:58 AM
#23
Whoa! Are you for real? How long have you had the car? I’m surprised you haven’t blown the engine.
Similar note. When replacing my radiator I found a wrench socket in my rad fan shroud that had dislodged one fan and was slowly cutting into the back of my rad fins. Also found a bolt bolt in my intake cover.
Moral of the story... take a good look at your engine bay after you buy.
Glad you found it sooner than later.
Similar note. When replacing my radiator I found a wrench socket in my rad fan shroud that had dislodged one fan and was slowly cutting into the back of my rad fins. Also found a bolt bolt in my intake cover.
Moral of the story... take a good look at your engine bay after you buy.
Glad you found it sooner than later.
Now I'm wondering if I need to get retuned again, since maybe now things will be different? I'll give my tuner a call first thing in the morning.
Usually I don't think to remove the intercooler and radiator or look inside every pipe after buying a car, but I guess you really never know...I'm also surprised the engine didn't blow, and I hate to think of all the extra wear caused by this. All I can picture is maybe the previous owner had the intercooler laying around and his kid stuffed something into it? Who knows.
Last edited by mkiv98; 05-15-18 at 06:05 AM.
