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-   -   simplified sequential mod (https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/simplified-sequential-mod-482764/)

jacobcartmill Nov 16, 2005 08:01 PM

simplified sequential mod
 
we are in the middle of doing the "simplified sequential" mod per the www.fd3s.cc/howto/display.php?id=5 but i have a couple questions.


1. does anyone have an exact list of the things we need to get rid of?

2. does anyone have a picture of their vacuum rack with this mod completed so we can compare it to ours?

3. how is this mod different from the totally stock vacuum setup? (other than there being fewer lines obviously)

i've had 3 fc's, and finally got an FD and this vacuum shit is out of control...

JONSKI Nov 16, 2005 10:17 PM


Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
we are in the middle of doing the "simplified sequential" mod per the www.fd3s.cc/howto/display.php?id=5 but i have a couple questions.


1. does anyone have an exact list of the things we need to get rid of?

2. does anyone have a picture of their vacuum rack with this mod completed so we can compare it to ours?

3. how is this mod different from the totally stock vacuum setup? (other than there being fewer lines obviously)

i've had 3 fc's, and finally got an FD and this vacuum shit is out of control...

1. It depends on what you are planning to remove. The diagram eliminates the following:
ACV - Required for emissions, it directs air from the airpump to either the exhaust ports, the main cat, or back to the airbox. Removing it renders cats and airpump useless. I have a DP, a gutted main cat and removed the airpump with a 300k4 belt (the water pump is only designed to spin CCW). If you don't think the water pump will get enough tension, then you can unplug the airpump's grey electrical connector and it will freewheel. My state does not require emissions testing.
DT - Double throttle. You should either wire the actuator on the UIM open -or- remove the butterflies and actuator and then fill/plug the hole for DT shaft (what I did).
EGR - California '93's and all '94's will cause a CEL on the stock ECU without the 12V relay trick.

The diagram does not include the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator) and FPR Solenoid plumbing. It's in the original factory diagram and the FPR is needs manifold pressure feedback from the LIM. However, you can eliminate the solenoid by routing a vacuum hose from the FPR directly to the little diagonal nipple on the LIM near the primary injectors housing (PIC). The solenoid just runs the engine rich to avoid vapor lock during a hot start.


2. I would, but it looks like silicone spaghetti and a pressure chamber stuffed under a UIM.


3. The simplification alters nothing involved with the turbo control systems. It removes the emissions control systems and the DT.

jacobcartmill Nov 17, 2005 12:17 AM

i dont have a pressure chamber... hmmm

jacobcartmill Nov 17, 2005 02:19 AM

i just want this dern thing to run correctly sequential and it appears that i am missing some parts!

rotorypolo Nov 17, 2005 07:41 AM

Hey JONSKI, I did the seq. simplification mod a while back, and I am very happy with my new setup, the rats nest looks hella cleaner. Anyway, it does eliminate a bunch of potential vacuum leaks. however, I do have one question, I removed the dbl throttle solenoid ( 1st one from the rack) and unplugged all the vacuum lines related the dbl throttle, but I did not remove my dbl throttle actualator on the UIM except plugging the nipple, is that ok?
Thanks

Marco

JONSKI Nov 17, 2005 08:51 AM


Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
i just want this dern thing to run correctly sequential and it appears that i am missing some parts!

What parts are you missing? If you can't locate a stock pressure chamber, you can probably make a decent one out of anything that will withstand at least 20psi (to be safe), the 200°F engine bay temps, the elements, and has roughly the same capacity. Maybe a small aerosol can with the stem drilled out and a nipple in it's place. Go ghetto!




Originally Posted by rotorypolo
Hey JONSKI, I did the seq. simplification mod a while back, and I am very happy with my new setup, the rats nest looks hella cleaner. Anyway, it does eliminate a bunch of potential vacuum leaks. however, I do have one question, I removed the dbl throttle solenoid ( 1st one from the rack) and unplugged all the vacuum lines related the dbl throttle, but I did not remove my dbl throttle actualator on the UIM except plugging the nipple, is that ok?
Thanks

IIRC, the DT is open by default. If it was closing on you at all, you'd probably notice it. I just suggest wiring open or removing the DT just to be absolutely, 100% sure it's open. I've also never heard of anyone with power issues after capping their DT actuator. It's just my paranoia.

jacobcartmill Nov 17, 2005 11:37 AM

are there any part numbers for these stock pressure chambers?

t-von Nov 17, 2005 05:15 PM


Originally Posted by jacobcartmill

i've had 3 fc's, and finally got an FD and this vacuum shit is out of control...


That's the funniest thing I've read all day. LOL

RotaryResurrection Nov 17, 2005 11:53 PM

Cartbitch, if you need any chambers, solenoids, etc. I have plenty of that shit laying around.

Blitz0309 Nov 18, 2005 09:35 AM

Jacob, when do i get to see this FD of yours?

Quick question quasi related. I am in the process of rebuilding my car 94 (damnit i wish i had you rebuild the engine landers, it would of saved me a ton of cash..). Either way i am killing off all the emmissions crap because i happen to be one of the lucky souls that lives in a city where emmissions don't matter.

I have a downpipe+midpipe and i don't plan on putting the airpump back on. I was have read various threads about the engine running lean without the airpump and was wondering how dangerous this will be running a stock turbo setup, or if there are any suggestions on getting around this without a power FC.

jacobcartmill Nov 18, 2005 11:58 AM

i believe they like to run lean and/or with a dp/mp because the removal of both cats raises the boost (by freeing up alot of breathing room for the engine and turbos.)

Blitz0309 Nov 18, 2005 12:28 PM

Its an issue with the airpump blowing air into the exhaust. The O2 sensor reads it as rich when this is stopped because that extra airflow is no longer there. Or so i have read on one of the thousands of threads about this.

jacobcartmill Nov 18, 2005 02:10 PM

i always thought the stock o2 sensors were junk and werent very good at reading anything... :dunno:

BryanDowns Nov 18, 2005 02:51 PM

I'd hope to god the stock O2 sensors arent relied upon under boost ;)

Unless mazda has done something incredibly stupid (like the whole stock ecu doing its best to blow up the motor itself in the FD isnt? :D ) then iit will ignore the o2 feedback under heavy load/high rpm like every other car on the planet.

OKRX-7 Nov 18, 2005 03:24 PM


Originally Posted by JONSKI
EGR - California '93's and all '94's will cause a CEL on the stock ECU without the 12V relay trick.


Hmm, going to have to look into this, first time I have heard of using a relay, thought you just used a resistor on the EGR.

*Edit* Never mind, switching to a '93 manual ECU, no need.

RotaryResurrection Nov 18, 2005 07:30 PM


I am in the process of rebuilding my car 94 (damnit i wish i had you rebuild the engine landers, it would of saved me a ton of cash..).
...and time. I hear this ALL the time. Rebuilding a rotary is not rocket science, but unless you've personally done it or seen it done at least once, there are plenty of places to snag yourself on and it just drags out WAY slower than it should have. I have plenty of people that tear their shit apart one day, then a few days later walk into the garage to start working on it, look at the massive pile of crap spread out everywhere, take one look at it, and say 'screw this" and call me to see how much extra I will charge to take their mess and make it functional again. And I always do it, much to their surprise. And they always have more time and money involved than if they had just let me do it from the getgo.

But, that is how we learn, I guess.


The O2 sensor reads it as rich when this is stopped because that extra airflow is no longer there. Or so i have read on one of the thousands of threads about this.
The 02 sensor is only looked at when in a cruise situation. it has NO bearing on loaded/boost fuel delivery.


i always thought the stock o2 sensors were junk and werent very good at reading anything... :dunno:
Thats right. Stock narrowbands operate on a 0-1vdc range and act as an off/on switch at 0.5vdc...rich or lean, no in between.

twan Jul 8, 2008 05:13 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobcartmill

i've had 3 fc's, and finally got an FD and this vacuum shit is out of control...


That's the funniest thing I've read all day. LOL


My wife asked me what the hell was so funny! "You've been laughing for five minutes!", I said,"It's an FD thang!!!!"


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