Secondry turbo fail ,Running rich
 

My Secondry Turbo sometimes doesnt kick in any idea's ,Also my fd runs really rich i have a full decat system with a HKS downpipe ,Pace intercooler ,Pace radiator ,Race plugs and leads ,Standard induction etc ,Also is it normal for the gearstick to get piping hot but stay cool on a run, Thanks any help would be appreciated Big headed sarcastic remarks would not be

OK, first issue. Is this thread about running rich, your secondary not coming online, or about your hot shifter?

Second: I won't be sarcastic; I'll be direct. Your writing is unclear and hard to read. Because you don't value our time enough to make a clear inquiry, I fear you do not have the attentiveness or intellect to make this discussion useful. If you feel this is not the case, then start reading in the FAQ thread which is stickied at the top of this forum. The list of links should provide a good start for these issues.

Third:
A) Secondary can not come on line for a variety of reasons - usually check valve, vacuum hose, actuator, or solenoid related. See http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...leshooting.htm for information. It is unrelated to tuning and the turbo itself. What boost pressure are you running? What is your boost pattern?

B) Running rich is a tuning issue. You didn't state what ECU you were running, which is of course where the tuning is done. I sure hope it's not stock with your mods. If it's a reprogrammed ECU, then you need to switch program levels. If it's a tunable ECU, you need to seek a rotary pro who can do it. Running very rich can also lead to combustion in the exhaust. Since I assume your exhaust mods don't include heat shields, it would explain the heat rising into the tranny tunnel and cooking the shifter like a convection oven. Do you get backfires? Does your downpipe glow orange when it's dark?

Dave

Heh heh,
Guess he didn't want to hear from you ! ! ! LOL

Yes i am running on a standard ecu is this a problem? and yes it backfires all the time, would 1 of those knight sport ecu's on e-bay help .My boost gauge runs in bars and its about 0.6 till about 4500rpm when it rises to .8 sometimes 1.0 then back down to 0.6 .as for my downpipe i will have to have a look tonight ihave no boost controllers all that is standard . Thanks

I think you have a significant problem with the stock ECU. If you want to continue modding or even keep the mods you have safely, you need to get a PFC (programmable) or a reputable reprogrammed ECU. Reputable to me means M2, PFS, etc. I would never trust my engine to a Knight sports ECU - it seems to be that brand is nothing but eBay junk.

As well, the rise to 0.8-1.0 bar is very bad news. (Is it sudden and brief, or does it rise to that level when you hold the boost? - if you're not sure, don't test it). If it's a quick spike, perhaps a boost controller is the best fix, but if it creeps up, a boost controller won't fix it. For creep, the answer is to grind the wastegate port in the turbos to a larger size.

You have too many mods for your fuel and tuning. So you can back down a little by putting the stock cat back on. That should hopefully reduce the boost to safe levels. If you get your boost to hold at 0.7bar or less, then you won't need to change ECUs. Or, if you really want to run fully decatted, you need to port your wastegate and change to an appropriate ECU. In either case, I would not boost past 0.5bar until it's all sorted out.

Dave