Secondary boost problem
 

Hey guys,

I am having a problem with my secondary turbo kicking in..
i usually get about 10-12 on the primary (sometimes spikes to 15 - thank got for the defi for screaming at me to stop) and then 5 psi on the secondary turbo :S

So i searched the forum, and it led me to that site about the turbos on the fd, and what symptoms mean what. Sounds like a disconnected line in the rats nest, or one of the check valve/ actuators. I pop off the pressure tank, which does hold pressure (did the drive under boost and yank off the line test), and get a quick look at the rats nest. I could see 3 or 4 nipples that didn't have lines on them. I figured it would be a quick fix. Found a guide on how to remove the UIM so i don't screw it up, and i saw this picture.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...7/P2280009.jpg

if you look at it, there are 4 exposed nipples, the same as mine. The empty one at the bottom of the picture is supposed to be empty according to the vacuum hose diagram. Now my question is are the remaining three supposed to be like that, or do they connect to something? Looking at the rats next diagram, they should be connected. It just seemed odd to me that someone else would have the same lines off as i do. So am i on crack, and don't know how to read the diagram, or are they supposed to be that way?

well your missing the EGR solinoid and one of your lines is not connecting to your LIM a previous owner may have tried deleting the EGR. I dont know if this helps but thats all I can see right now

Everything looks normal for a car with no EGR. Not all FD's came with EGR from the factory.

There are a number of ways to proceed:
1) do all kinds of tests to locate the faulty part and change it
2) replace both turbo control solenoids and the check valves and you'll more than likely solve your secondary problem.
3) do a vacuum hose job and replace those crusty stock lines
4) do a vacuum hose job and replace the lines and even more stuff.

I'm guessing you have at least 3 flow mods, which would be the cause of the spiking. The good news is that going to some other kind of boost controller will stop that.

The vacuum hose job is not a small task; I won't lie to you. But IMHO it's the best way to solve these boost problems for the long term. You can also get your injectors cleaned, replace the FPD, change the rear block-tb coolant hose, do the fuel line recall if not done already, etc. If this isn't your daily driver, you want to keep the car with the twins for a while, and you don't mind a project, choose 4). If you want to try the fastest possible solution to the boost issue, try 2). 1) is possible but requires a mityvac and a lot of labor.

Dave

the only flow mod that i have is the mazdaspeed exhaust from the axel back. Stock cat and intake still as well. Its only sometimes it will spike up, and hten drop back down to 10-12. I will end up taking off the UIM and checking the hoses, esp the ones that control the secondary turbo. Replacing the turbo control solenoids is another thing i will prob end up doing.
My car came from japan, do you think it may come without the EGR system? I guess the previous owner could have taken it out as well. Ill have to pop off the UIM to get a full look at the situation. Figured i would just ask first so i can get all the right parts first, and do that.

Japan cars didn't (IIRC) have an egr or precat. I would venture a guess that your still running the stock ECU which at anything over 10psi will eventually get your motor, get the boost in check then find your secondary issue.