save the whales, SAVE YOUR MOTOR
08-01-10, 09:11 PM
#476
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"using cheap two cycle oils in my GPR waverunner that they will leave ugly deposits."
"all my wal-mart had was the 1 gallon jugs for outboard 2 cycle."
with the qualifier that i really know nothing about the chemistry of 2 cycle oil, or 4 cycle for that matter... i have been using exclusively Walmart SuperTech 2 cycle oil in my FD for 5 years. i continue to use it because it works and my rotors have no "ugly deposits" on them. please see my rotor pics on the first page (or thereabouts) of the thread. and, yes the containers has "outboard" on it.
"Anybody running synthetic oil in their non-omp engines?"
i have run nothing but Mobil 1 5-30 in my rotaries since 1983. rotaries stress oil more than piston engines and need all the help they can get including 2 oil coolers.
as previously mentioned oil is one of the most emotional topics on the board. i am merely sharing what works for me. your oil might be zillions of degrees better but all i know is that my oil choices, and more importantly, my external oil pump elimination and premix works for me.
hc
"all my wal-mart had was the 1 gallon jugs for outboard 2 cycle."
with the qualifier that i really know nothing about the chemistry of 2 cycle oil, or 4 cycle for that matter... i have been using exclusively Walmart SuperTech 2 cycle oil in my FD for 5 years. i continue to use it because it works and my rotors have no "ugly deposits" on them. please see my rotor pics on the first page (or thereabouts) of the thread. and, yes the containers has "outboard" on it.
"Anybody running synthetic oil in their non-omp engines?"
i have run nothing but Mobil 1 5-30 in my rotaries since 1983. rotaries stress oil more than piston engines and need all the help they can get including 2 oil coolers.
as previously mentioned oil is one of the most emotional topics on the board. i am merely sharing what works for me. your oil might be zillions of degrees better but all i know is that my oil choices, and more importantly, my external oil pump elimination and premix works for me.
hc
09-20-10, 10:27 AM
#477
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Help with Pre-Mix options.
I have a 93 FD that just recently threw the CEL for OMP failure. 
My car is relatively stock with only intake, exhaust, & downpipe. It has the stock CPU as well.
What are my options for premixing?
If I get the bansai block off kit do I need to buy a Power FC to not stay in limp home mode? Or can I stay on the stock CPU?
I did read through most of the thread, but there isn't anything on what to do with a failed OMP
Any help is greatly appreciated
My car is relatively stock with only intake, exhaust, & downpipe. It has the stock CPU as well.
What are my options for premixing?
If I get the bansai block off kit do I need to buy a Power FC to not stay in limp home mode? Or can I stay on the stock CPU?
I did read through most of the thread, but there isn't anything on what to do with a failed OMP
Any help is greatly appreciated
09-20-10, 10:44 AM
#478
I have a 93 FD that just recently threw the CEL for OMP failure.
My car is relatively stock with only intake, exhaust, & downpipe. It has the stock CPU as well.
What are my options for premixing?
If I get the bansai block off kit do I need to buy a Power FC to not stay in limp home mode? Or can I stay on the stock CPU?
I did read through most of the thread, but there isn't anything on what to do with a failed OMP
Any help is greatly appreciated
My car is relatively stock with only intake, exhaust, & downpipe. It has the stock CPU as well.
What are my options for premixing?
If I get the bansai block off kit do I need to buy a Power FC to not stay in limp home mode? Or can I stay on the stock CPU?
I did read through most of the thread, but there isn't anything on what to do with a failed OMP
Any help is greatly appreciated
You can install it correctly which is what I recommend, it is only a couple hour job at best.
You can buy a PFC and just premix and the PFC will not go into limp mode.
My opinion is put in a good OMP and premix on top of that.
Thats what I do but do as you feel.
09-20-10, 10:54 AM
#479
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even though this is a 3rd gen topic... the title and author caught my attention...
good read...
i bet any money though, that both my rotors look exactly like those carbon caked rotors....
good read...
i bet any money though, that both my rotors look exactly like those carbon caked rotors....
09-20-10, 11:08 AM
#480
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I've seen first hand comparisons of Amsoil Interceptor with other oils in two stroke applications, the power valves and piston crowns with Interceptor are night and day.
You don't need the OMP, it's a liability. Keep everything simple with car. I've pre-mixed at 1/2 oz/gallon for 4-5 years, and compression is excellent (15 psi boost runs every time I drive the car). Pre-mixing takes 10 seconds - tops - at the pump. Fill the tank half full, pour in 8 oz, top off the tank. It doesn't get any simpler, and it's 100% failsafe.
You don't need the OMP, it's a liability. Keep everything simple with car. I've pre-mixed at 1/2 oz/gallon for 4-5 years, and compression is excellent (15 psi boost runs every time I drive the car). Pre-mixing takes 10 seconds - tops - at the pump. Fill the tank half full, pour in 8 oz, top off the tank. It doesn't get any simpler, and it's 100% failsafe.
09-22-10, 08:44 AM
#482
So after going through 5 pages of this thread I havn't seen one comment regarding a carburated motor. I'm running a street ported 12a w a 400 holley (84 FB) with the 2 hoses that squirt oil into the primaries. I'm interested in going the premix route but not sure if the same rules apply to me being I'm runnin' a carb.
What route can I take to eleminate the omp, I know theres a link I have stuck in a bracket hole that keeps it 3/4 open @ all times. Can I just disconnect that linkage and begin premixing?? Any & all advise is appreciated, Peace.
What route can I take to eleminate the omp, I know theres a link I have stuck in a bracket hole that keeps it 3/4 open @ all times. Can I just disconnect that linkage and begin premixing?? Any & all advise is appreciated, Peace.
09-22-10, 09:00 AM
#483
So after going through 5 pages of this thread I havn't seen one comment regarding a carburated motor. I'm running a street ported 12a w a 400 holley (84 FB) with the 2 hoses that squirt oil into the primaries. I'm interested in going the premix route but not sure if the same rules apply to me being I'm runnin' a carb.
What route can I take to eleminate the omp, I know theres a link I have stuck in a bracket hole that keeps it 3/4 open @ all times. Can I just disconnect that linkage and begin premixing?? Any & all advise is appreciated, Peace.
What route can I take to eleminate the omp, I know theres a link I have stuck in a bracket hole that keeps it 3/4 open @ all times. Can I just disconnect that linkage and begin premixing?? Any & all advise is appreciated, Peace.
they last forever and the OMP rarely fails...
09-22-10, 10:24 AM
#484
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So to get all this right once and for all I want to throw this out and get a bless off before I do it, mind you I really DO daily drive my FD and I''m currently @ work reading this thread so:
I'm sold on Premix, during lunch break I'm going to go buy some 2-cycle oil, then i'm going to the gas station, I'm going to pour in the 2 cycle oil into the tank and pop the hood and reach down and UNPLUG my EOP (I have a PFC by the way). Is this ok? I plan on going with the 1oz/gal since I'm running single turbo, walbro and all that Jazz. But I'm wondering as far as there being some problem with leaving the EOP AS IS and just unplugged and just pre-mixing. Thank you and BTW Great post as always HC.
I'm sold on Premix, during lunch break I'm going to go buy some 2-cycle oil, then i'm going to the gas station, I'm going to pour in the 2 cycle oil into the tank and pop the hood and reach down and UNPLUG my EOP (I have a PFC by the way). Is this ok? I plan on going with the 1oz/gal since I'm running single turbo, walbro and all that Jazz. But I'm wondering as far as there being some problem with leaving the EOP AS IS and just unplugged and just pre-mixing. Thank you and BTW Great post as always HC.
09-22-10, 03:27 PM
#486
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So to get all this right once and for all I want to throw this out and get a bless off before I do it, mind you I really DO daily drive my FD and I''m currently @ work reading this thread so:
I'm sold on Premix, during lunch break I'm going to go buy some 2-cycle oil, then i'm going to the gas station, I'm going to pour in the 2 cycle oil into the tank and pop the hood and reach down and UNPLUG my EOP (I have a PFC by the way). Is this ok? I plan on going with the 1oz/gal since I'm running single turbo, walbro and all that Jazz. But I'm wondering as far as there being some problem with leaving the EOP AS IS and just unplugged and just pre-mixing. Thank you and BTW Great post as always HC.
I'm sold on Premix, during lunch break I'm going to go buy some 2-cycle oil, then i'm going to the gas station, I'm going to pour in the 2 cycle oil into the tank and pop the hood and reach down and UNPLUG my EOP (I have a PFC by the way). Is this ok? I plan on going with the 1oz/gal since I'm running single turbo, walbro and all that Jazz. But I'm wondering as far as there being some problem with leaving the EOP AS IS and just unplugged and just pre-mixing. Thank you and BTW Great post as always HC.
09-24-10, 12:05 PM
#491
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
The only problem we have seen is that the shaft itself, if it is wore, can leak it's 2-stroke oil back into the engine. One engine we have done does this intermittently.
Barry
09-25-10, 11:13 AM
#493
The oil pressure only fills a small cavity on the OMP face then spills any excess back into the engine's pan.
The only problem we have seen is that the shaft itself, if it is wore, can leak it's 2-stroke oil back into the engine. One engine we have done does this intermittently.
Barry
The only problem we have seen is that the shaft itself, if it is wore, can leak it's 2-stroke oil back into the engine. One engine we have done does this intermittently.
Barry
09-26-10, 08:47 PM
#494
Jonathan (Gorilla RE) and I setup an experiment on the bench as shown to see where the oil was going. After 2 weeks setup on the table as it sits in the car, no oil loss. The pictures show the block off plate when we pulled it off the test and the red circle shows a nice ball of silicone where the oil relief is. Our assumption is that we didn't get a good seal the first time install. For longivety sake, Jonathan filled in the oil relief port circled in orange with JB Weld.
With about 1,000 miles now and periods of sitting in the garage 2 weeks at a time, I have no loss except when running. I've used almost 2 quarts and see a noticable drop in oil level on trips as short as 50 miles. Driving Rx-7's for over 25 years, I've never had too add more than half a quart of oil between 1,500 to 3,000 mile oil changes for OMP use - mind you this is street driving.
The shaft has no seal back to where there is oil inside the pump. After hurricane season, I'll be taking it apart again after checking our inventory OMP's for the shaft with tighest fit around the insert and try to find a fresh oring for the insert.
Jack
09-26-10, 10:25 PM
#495
well hell. after reading this you have my gears turning. my fresh motors about to be together and i was going to try the 2 stroke injection again. I guess im going to rebuild my pump. Try to find orings that fits very snug. what did you do to your front cover to accept the 2 stroke injection? I see your on a s5 pump im on a s4 mechanical
09-27-10, 04:49 PM
#498
Yep, that's where we got the idea. A rotary aviation adapter won't fit with my turbo manifold so I started searching alternatives.
If you follow that thread plus some others that have used this method, not everyone follows the same method. We studied the inside of an REW front cover and decided nothing needed mods there.
Jack
If you follow that thread plus some others that have used this method, not everyone follows the same method. We studied the inside of an REW front cover and decided nothing needed mods there.
Jack
09-27-10, 05:08 PM
#499
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Is pre-mixing really that tough? 
I don't understand throwing a bunch of contraptions at something that takes an extra 10 seconds at the pump, and you know it's done right.
Racing two stroke MX bikes and waverunners all pre-mix, there's a reason for that
I don't understand throwing a bunch of contraptions at something that takes an extra 10 seconds at the pump, and you know it's done right.Racing two stroke MX bikes and waverunners all pre-mix, there's a reason for that
09-28-10, 11:04 AM
#500
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Yeah man why don't you go ahead and take off you starter and just weld a hand-crank on your main pulley so you can have a harder time performing a task that has been simplified for you?? Mazda provided the method and the tool, the tool just pulls the wrong oil from the wrong place, some of us would like to fix that and move on with our lives and not have to carry measuring cups and quarts of oil that bang around in the trunk as you pull crazy G's racing. The oil may spill while the car sits at work in the parking lot and now you go to pump gas and "oh snap not only do I have the BP oil spill going on in my trunk, I also don't have any two cycle oil" Now I need a new rear carpet too. I can go on.... Bottom line... some of us are just lazy ok? Can you respect that? Oh yeah go ahead make some more analogies about how rotary engines are exactly like 2-cycle engines...so everyone can keep laughing, I know I am...lol