safc2 in an fd
haven't heard much about it, but can i use the safc2 in an fd?? if not what would be the cheapest way of getting a tune on my car, i only plan on getting basic mods for the car, turbo back exhaust, intake and stock mount intercooler/pipes. any help would be awesome, kind of new to these bad boys :wallbash:
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If you don't want a fully programmable ECU like the PFC, then get a rechipped ECU like a Pettit or M2 ECU. They can be had used for around the $300-400 range.
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PFC's are going cheap right now, if your strapped for cash i would try and pick one up.. the price is only going to go up from here.
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mostly mazda
so im guessing no to the afc? i have one laying around from my last project, so thats why i asked. how about the mostly mazda chip? i tried finding a web site, but to no avail.
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Originally Posted by RevLimitLaunch
so im guessing no to the afc? i have one laying around from my last project, so thats why i asked. how about the mostly mazda chip? i tried finding a web site, but to no avail.
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ok i've found some m2 ecu's being sold here and there. should i look for anything in particular when choosing one to buy? is there a difference in 'stages'? like i stated before, my mods will be aas follow....platinum plugs, turbo back exhaust straight thru no cats, intake, hard intercooler pipes and boost controller at 10psi. also whats a good size for the exhaut on stock turboes? thanks for all the help its more than appreciated!
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M2 ECU's came in 3 stages, the later being the more aggressive. However, M2 never suggested using midpipes (catl-ess) with their ECU's. I would suggest going for a Pettit ECU if you want to run a midpipe on the car. Not to say that you couldn't use one with the M2 ECU's, IMO it would be better to use the Pettit for that application.
Standard upgraded exhaust aftermarket piping is 3" for the RX-7. There are larger pipes available but those are typically for custom setups (like piston engine swaps, larger single turbos, etc). |
BTW, to answer the original question - the SAFC just doesn't work well in an FD. The FD uses the MAP sensor as the main fuel input (that's the signal the SAFC modifies), but that's also where it determines fuel cut from. Increase the signal to increase fuel, and you just end up hitting fuel cut. It's a shame - this is the case with any piggyback and the FD, but the good thing is the PowerFC works EXTREMELY well (plug in, car drives WAY better than stock, safe map for light mods) and gives you so much flexibility for a great price.
If you wanted to go cheap, sell the Super-AFC and buy a boost controller. If you can keep your boost at 10psi with no spiking, the stock ECU is fine and dandy. Dale |
claims have been made that running a mid pipe is what stage 3 was made for, correct please if this is a wrong acquisition. i wouldn't mind going with a pettit ecu but its mostly the cost thats getting to me, the more i spend on an ecu the less ill spend on the reliability mods, i think of it that way. 3" is what i had expected, but i've seen 4" systems sold for the car and i'm coming from playing around with the world of mitsubishi and the illustrious (if you could call it that) 4G63. so rotary engines are pretty new to me, somewhat.
i already have an aem wideband uego, water temp, oil psi, and boost gauge lined up to be put in before mods go underway, and a reason i'd like to go with the m2 is that, once again, claims made that boost is at 12psi consistently rather than spiking and creaping around. i think i'll look into the pettit ecu more for the time being, but is there a site or somewhere i can go to to find out ALL the specs on the m2 ecu? thanks again. |
Sigh...if you can't afford to play...don't. Stick with the stock cat, limit boost to 10 psi and stick with the stock ecu until you can afford a proper ecu. A used Pettit is $375-400....
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Originally Posted by rynberg
Sigh...if you can't afford to play...don't. Stick with the stock cat, limit boost to 10 psi and stick with the stock ecu until you can afford a proper ecu. .
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Originally Posted by RevLimitLaunch
the more i spend on an ecu the less ill spend on the reliability mods, i think of it that way.
+Another 1 for PFC. |
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-...QQcmdZViewItem
anything you can tell me about this?? i wanna make sure it'll be good for my setup. if its good i plan on buying it. thanks in advance for help. its greatly appreciated. |
Originally Posted by RevLimitLaunch
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993-...QQcmdZViewItem
anything you can tell me about this?? i wanna make sure it'll be good for my setup. if its good i plan on buying it. thanks in advance for help. its greatly appreciated. No idea on this one. Sorry... But I would really agree with what is being said above. One major difference between these and the mitus' (I also came from one..) is that there is A LOT LESS room for error, esp. in tuning. In the world of rotary it is best to just do things right the FIRST TIME. I would really recommend you just biting the bullet and purchasing the PFC. It will save you more trouble down the road. But this is just my 0.02 |
Yeah, that's the PFS gold motor eater. Just get a used Pettit, a PFC, or keep the stock ecu and run 10 psi. Quit trying to cheap out on modding!
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Originally Posted by RevLimitLaunch
anything you can tell me about this??
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pettit
ok, ill be findiing a pettit used ecu over the winter. lol, thanks and sorry for asking so much crap!! :MissileSm
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